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Thread: mixed dot 3 and 5 brake fluid

  1. #11
    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustystud View Post
    Those are good articles describing the differences and pros and cons of each type of brake fluid. Thanks frank.
    I sent you originals in email.
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  2. #12
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    If I can determine that the Dot 3 didn't get far beyond the MC I'll keep it dot 5, but if I have to blow out the entire system I'm going to Dot 3. The problem I remember bleeding a truck in the past was I questioned whether I got all of the air out. Where the truck is now it's level. Here at home I always have a slope to deal with and thought that might be the difficulty in getting the last bit out.

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    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank8003 View Post
    I sent you originals in email.
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    Sorry about that. Cleaned it out.

  4. #14
    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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    It is just compliance with page two and page three in the attached.
    The wheel cylinders are the low points in the system. That is where the water will separate from the DOT 3 and goto.
    Purple DOT 5 is better stuff.
    TB43-0002-87 replacement procedure brake fluid.pdf

    I found the motive power bleeder and that NAPA one man check valve thing made it a easy job
    Part #: BK 7769089 at NAPA
    bleeder NAPA NWMDC.jpg
    motive power bleeder .jpg
    It will make it into a simple job.
    Last edited by frank8003; 01-06-2019 at 09:33.
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    I made a power bleeder out of a sprayer once and I'm sure I still have it, but I remember using it with a metal screw IN fill cap. This 1988 deuce has a plastic screw ON cap like a power steering reservoir cap. and it's kind of big. That's part of the problem with having the truck parked 60 miles away from home. I can't go out and check it. I saw an adapter for a power steering reservoir that would work if it fits and stays in the filler. Probably needs to be held in when pressure is applied making this a 2 man operation.

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    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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    answer here last post, sort of .............
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...Circuit-System

    much interesting stuff in here
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...aster-cylinder

    So goto the SMI 9 2320 209 14&P to figure F-12 which shows cap and
    o-ring. Indicates cap is P/N 2231936.
    Google to Part Target and put 2231936 into search which gives
    NSN 2590 01 0176 2816 as being P/N 2231936.
    None at my normal searches so just put 2231936 and/or the NSN straight into google and there is your new caps for about maybe 10 bucks.
    All this tells me it is a GM part number Part Number: 15513988 (2231936).

    And this is new caps for your master cylinder so you can rig something before ever going to the truck
    https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c.../15513988.html

    And a picture for the General
    cap for dual MC IMG_0276.jpg

    but I could be wrong like that one Tuesday, anyhow you get the idea.
    Last edited by frank8003; 01-06-2019 at 20:10.
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    I went out to the truck yesterday to check on everything after the windstorm we had. I brought a big scringe with me to see if I could pull any of the fluid out. It turns out that the fluid isn't thick. It is a greenish yellow. What I thought were suspended bubbles must have been there from pumping the brakes. The truck also had a used air pack in it and in the tool box there was a bottle of Dot 4. Now I'm beginning to think they changed to Dot 3 when the air pack was changed and the entire system is dot 3 and 4. It may only need a bleeding. I found some records in the truck that said the brakes were not functioning back in 2015. I didn't find anything that said what was done, but the used airpack gives a good hint. If I find Dot 3 at the air packs and wheel cylinders, when I bleed everything, I will be happy with that. I won't forget to post what I find after bleeding, in case anyone is interested, but it could be a while before I get too it. One thing I'm going to do is pour some dot 3 and 5 together in a jar to see what they do, because after everything I've read it's still not entirely clear what happens.
    Thanks

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    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2deuce View Post
    I went out to the truck yesterday to check on everything after the windstorm we had. I brought a big scringe with me to see if I could pull any of the fluid out. It turns out that the fluid isn't thick. It is a greenish yellow. What I thought were suspended bubbles must have been there from pumping the brakes. The truck also had a used air pack in it and in the tool box there was a bottle of Dot 4. Now I'm beginning to think they changed to Dot 3 when the air pack was changed and the entire system is dot 3 and 4. It may only need a bleeding. I found some records in the truck that said the brakes were not functioning back in 2015. I didn't find anything that said what was done, but the used airpack gives a good hint. If I find Dot 3 at the air packs and wheel cylinders, when I bleed everything, I will be happy with that. I won't forget to post what I find after bleeding, in case anyone is interested, but it could be a while before I get too it. One thing I'm going to do is pour some dot 3 and 5 together in a jar to see what they do, because after everything I've read it's still not entirely clear what happens.
    Thanks
    DOT 3 and DOT 5 will separate. If you do have cross contamination between DOT 3 and DOT 5 then you really need to replace "all" the seals. Every wheel cylinder and brake master cylinder and air-pack needs new seals installed.

  11. #19
    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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    from 01022013 welldigger post #8
    O and simple test for brake fluid is pour some brake fluid into an empty water bottle. Then add some water and shake. If you have dot 5 it will separate out and float on top after a while. If you have dot 3 or 4 then they won't separate since dot 3 and 4 absorb water.
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    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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