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Brake problem - frozen anchor pins

Crazyguyla

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I've been working on getting my brakes in working order. New master cylinder, air pack, steel and rubber lines. Working on getting each wheel working. Last time I moved the truck, had a wheel dragging. I finally was able to get the dragging wheel apart by unbolting the wheel cylinder and tapping it in while rocking the hub. The pads don't look burnt, really dirty. The wheel cylinder and the lower adjusting pins are seized. Ordered new wheel cylinders, but need to get the lower adjusting pins loose. I've tried penetrating oil, heat, more penetrating oil, and soft taps with a brass hammer.

Anyone have this problem before?
 

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dmetalmiki

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How 'Hot' was the heat?.
Leave penetrating oil on for 24 hours, Then,
Heat it enough and it will break free.
I had that problem, had them low red hot!, And freed them with 14" Stillsons.
 

Crazyguyla

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was using a propane torch, the light breeze kept blowing out the torch. Hot=burning paint off backing plate, no glow. I wish the backing plate was removable, would chuck it up in a press.
 

WillWagner

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You are on the right track, just work slowly and be patient. I had this issue last month on a V100, heat to almost red hot, PB blaster, love taps, re heat then quench with cold water. Had to blast them when they came out. Re paint them and then use liberal amounts of never seize when you assemble, don't forget to oil the felts.
 

13ronin

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Personally I would avoid high heat if you plan on reusing. High heat, even with quenching, can take away the tempering of hardening of any steel and cause permanent distortions. Theres a penetrating oil out there called Kroil that makes PB look like water. Its expensive but worth it! Another option I've used in the past is heat around the bolt, not the bolt head itself, and get some paraffin wax. Heat it up enough so that when you put the wax to the area around the bolt head it bubbles and smokes a little (400°f roughly) then casually hit it with a rattle gun. Short bursts. Be patient. Repeat as many times as necessary. But overall for this or other stubborn bolts I would for sure invest in some Kroil. Amazing stuff.
 

rustystud

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Personally I would avoid high heat if you plan on reusing. High heat, even with quenching, can take away the tempering of hardening of any steel and cause permanent distortions. Theres a penetrating oil out there called Kroil that makes PB look like water. Its expensive but worth it! Another option I've used in the past is heat around the bolt, not the bolt head itself, and get some paraffin wax. Heat it up enough so that when you put the wax to the area around the bolt head it bubbles and smokes a little (400°f roughly) then casually hit it with a rattle gun. Short bursts. Be patient. Repeat as many times as necessary. But overall for this or other stubborn bolts I would for sure invest in some Kroil. Amazing stuff.
Yes Kroil oil is pretty good stuff.
 

frank8003

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As stated the Kroil is your friend. Only thing I ever saw go up hill, like dye up a celery in grade school.
Give the Kroil time to work. The eccentrics are fozen but they are not really really closely machined so it will come apart, You might try a chain or really small strap wrench or something softer but don't ding it up.

On another note since you fixing it all then this is about the squish washers. They are a mandatory replacement part.

Copper crush washers NSN …………………I don't know
The NSN listed the size in decimal inches, confusing at that.
The concentric rings on the brake hose end cause impressions in the dead soft copper washers to seal the 2500 PSI braking system..

If you choose to reuse them (don't) try heating the copper washers red hot, and dropping them into water, this will anneal them and make them soft again to help seal them. Why do that. When the truck were built the military paid 7 to 11 cents each for them. They are now 69 cents each at NAPA

Item Specifics NAPA part UP 1244 in premium brake parts used to be
UPC 747730097329

244 Hydraulic Components Copper Gaskets.
ID. : 33/64″
Material : Copper
O.D. : 45/64″
Thickness : 1/32″
The copper crush gaskets I seek are obsolete and are not AN or metric parts!

The washers at NAPA are now 69 cents each
Part #: UP 1244 Product Line: NAPA Ultra Premium Brake Parts

NWMDC.jpg

and about those wheel cylinders...............
I had a considerable mess, Dawn, newspapers and rags are your friend.
Pictures for the General.
cylinder 7.jpgcylinder 10.jpgcylinder 6.jpg
 
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frank8003

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Ya it also comes in 8 oz non aerosol and gallons. 80$ for the gallon can. I have an 8 oz can from work waiting to get my hands on a gallon can when I get on a turbine job!
We used gallons of Kroil at work. It was the only thing that would get the main turbine fasteners apart. Used what is called bolt heaters powered by power plant 440VAC 3 phase to make heat for daze on end.
Some would not come apart due to somebody used nickel based Nuclear grade anti-seize instead of copper based anti-seize. That cost big bucks because the nuclear grade (which some thought has got to be mo better) made the male and female threads into one piece with the over 1200F° turbine shell temperature. Big expensive story.

Anyhow the foamy Kroil helps in some cases but the liquid still be the best, let is soak.
 
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rustystud

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Ya it also comes in 8 oz non aerosol and gallons. 80$ for the gallon can. I have an 8 oz can from work waiting to get my hands on a gallon can when I get on a turbine job!

Where can you buy Kroil oil for $80.00 a gallon ? I spent $20.00 just for that small spray can alone ! I would love to be able to buy a gallon for a decent price.
Let me know OK ?
Thanks.
 

frank8003

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Where can you buy Kroil oil for $80.00 a gallon ? I spent $20.00 just for that small spray can alone ! I would love to be able to buy a gallon for a decent price.
Let me know OK ?
Thanks.
Is 86 bucks a gallon now.
It went up 6 bucks delivered by Amazon but it been about 6 years
since I bought last one. Remember to shake it up once in a while.
It is 96 bucks a gallon on eBay.
I sent you an email.
 

frank8003

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~ The wheel cylinder and the lower adjusting pins are seized ~ but need to get the lower adjusting pins loose ~ Anyone have this problem before?
Comments and photos, and Yes I had a lot of stuck stuff.
For this by now I would have ground the teeth out a 10" round jaw Vise-Grips. Very common to machine out to needed diameter lathe chuck soft jaws to get the most grip that can be had. Lock them on the adjuster stud with a pipe extension to the ground then work on the backing nut, 11/16"?
Remember the adjusters turn opposite for adjustments.
Pictures for the General
cam adj 1.jpg

lf 4.jpg

Brake shoe assembly .JPGBrake shoe pin A corect B wrong IMG_7021.JPGBrake shoe pin A correct B wrong IMG_7022.JPGbrake shoes ON 04102014.jpgbrakes 20.jpgbrakes proper spring image.jpg

With the pictured brake shoe holding pins the "A" is correct and the "B" is wrong.

clean 3.jpgclean 4.jpghelper A.jpghis frozen KIMG0661.JPGlf 6.jpg

Dawn and Kroil are now your friends too.
 
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13ronin

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Well that makes me feel... sad... I'm gonna have to buy some seafoam and do some field tests. I do know kroil makes pb look like water but now I feel like my whole life is lie past that u
 

Ajax MD

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The guy's method is very scientific and I appreciate that. His humor is off the charts.

I don't rate the different penetrants by how much force it takes to break a fastener free, I rate them by whether I can break a fastener free at all. Anecdotally speaking, it just seems like I have more success with Kroil but...as the video seems to indicate, this may all just be an illusion.
 

gimpyrobb

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I have a buddy thats (now retired) a mechanic. He has tried everything and mostly uses 50/50 atf-acetone. He said "Yeild" works great, but the atf mix is most economical.
 
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