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Thread: Brake problem - frozen anchor pins

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    2 Star General Crazyguyla's Avatar
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    Default Brake problem - frozen anchor pins

    I've been working on getting my brakes in working order. New master cylinder, air pack, steel and rubber lines. Working on getting each wheel working. Last time I moved the truck, had a wheel dragging. I finally was able to get the dragging wheel apart by unbolting the wheel cylinder and tapping it in while rocking the hub. The pads don't look burnt, really dirty. The wheel cylinder and the lower adjusting pins are seized. Ordered new wheel cylinders, but need to get the lower adjusting pins loose. I've tried penetrating oil, heat, more penetrating oil, and soft taps with a brass hammer.

    Anyone have this problem before?
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    Marcus
    1957 Utica Bend M45 with Harris J-210-FED Air Compressor
    Hawthorne, FL

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    4 Star General dmetalmiki's Avatar
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    How 'Hot' was the heat?.
    Leave penetrating oil on for 24 hours, Then,
    Heat it enough and it will break free.
    I had that problem, had them low red hot!, And freed them with 14" Stillsons.
    DIAMOND T M20.
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    2 Star General Crazyguyla's Avatar
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    was using a propane torch, the light breeze kept blowing out the torch. Hot=burning paint off backing plate, no glow. I wish the backing plate was removable, would chuck it up in a press.
    Marcus
    1957 Utica Bend M45 with Harris J-210-FED Air Compressor
    Hawthorne, FL

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    You are on the right track, just work slowly and be patient. I had this issue last month on a V100, heat to almost red hot, PB blaster, love taps, re heat then quench with cold water. Had to blast them when they came out. Re paint them and then use liberal amounts of never seize when you assemble, don't forget to oil the felts.
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    Personally I would avoid high heat if you plan on reusing. High heat, even with quenching, can take away the tempering of hardening of any steel and cause permanent distortions. Theres a penetrating oil out there called Kroil that makes PB look like water. Its expensive but worth it! Another option I've used in the past is heat around the bolt, not the bolt head itself, and get some paraffin wax. Heat it up enough so that when you put the wax to the area around the bolt head it bubbles and smokes a little (400f roughly) then casually hit it with a rattle gun. Short bursts. Be patient. Repeat as many times as necessary. But overall for this or other stubborn bolts I would for sure invest in some Kroil. Amazing stuff.

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    Another vote for Kroil: www.kanolabs.com
    Motorpool:

    (Isn't owning one of this insanity enough??)
    1971 M813 "Ox" (named for Dewey Oxburger)

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    Quote Originally Posted by 13ronin View Post
    Personally I would avoid high heat if you plan on reusing. High heat, even with quenching, can take away the tempering of hardening of any steel and cause permanent distortions. Theres a penetrating oil out there called Kroil that makes PB look like water. Its expensive but worth it! Another option I've used in the past is heat around the bolt, not the bolt head itself, and get some paraffin wax. Heat it up enough so that when you put the wax to the area around the bolt head it bubbles and smokes a little (400f roughly) then casually hit it with a rattle gun. Short bursts. Be patient. Repeat as many times as necessary. But overall for this or other stubborn bolts I would for sure invest in some Kroil. Amazing stuff.
    Yes Kroil oil is pretty good stuff.

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    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    004.jpg

    I got out my can of Kroil oil and it is actually called "Aero Kroil" from KANOLABS.

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    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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    As stated the Kroil is your friend. Only thing I ever saw go up hill, like dye up a celery in grade school.
    Give the Kroil time to work. The eccentrics are fozen but they are not really really closely machined so it will come apart, You might try a chain or really small strap wrench or something softer but don't ding it up.

    On another note since you fixing it all then this is about the squish washers. They are a mandatory replacement part.

    Copper crush washers NSN I don't know
    The NSN listed the size in decimal inches, confusing at that.
    The concentric rings on the brake hose end cause impressions in the dead soft copper washers to seal the 2500 PSI braking system..

    If you choose to reuse them (don't) try heating the copper washers red hot, and dropping them into water, this will anneal them and make them soft again to help seal them. Why do that. When the truck were built the military paid 7 to 11 cents each for them. They are now 69 cents each at NAPA

    Item Specifics NAPA part UP 1244 in premium brake parts used to be
    UPC 747730097329

    244 Hydraulic Components Copper Gaskets.
    ID. : 33/64″
    Material : Copper
    O.D. : 45/64″
    Thickness : 1/32″
    The copper crush gaskets I seek are obsolete and are not AN or metric parts!

    The washers at NAPA are now 69 cents each
    Part #: UP 1244 Product Line: NAPA Ultra Premium Brake Parts

    NWMDC.jpg

    and about those wheel cylinders...............
    I had a considerable mess, Dawn, newspapers and rags are your friend.
    Pictures for the General.
    cylinder 7.jpgcylinder 10.jpgcylinder 6.jpg
    Last edited by frank8003; 01-12-2019 at 08:38.
    I was here, had a good time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustystud View Post
    004.jpg

    I got out my can of Kroil oil and it is actually called "Aero Kroil" from KANOLABS.
    Ya it also comes in 8 oz non aerosol and gallons. 80$ for the gallon can. I have an 8 oz can from work waiting to get my hands on a gallon can when I get on a turbine job!

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