• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Knuckle Seal

Iceman3005

Iceman3005

Active member
933
96
28
Location
Holt, MI
Well, the old M813 blew out the knuckle seal. Well more like a 2 inch tear. Anyway, the spare's that I got do not have the zipper, do I just reuse the zippers from the old boot? Or should I just get new ones with the zipper already on them?

Also what grease should I use? TM says GAA, what the heck is GAA? Do I just use lithium grease, silicone grease?

Never mind found the answer: Castrol 610, NGLI #2 Grease or equivalent.

Then the fun job of getting 4 lbs of grease into the knuckle.
 
1

162tcat

Active member
710
44
28
Location
Washington
Lots of info on this if you do a search. If you need zipper boot, buy them. The ones without zippers are good but you have to take more a part to use them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Floridianson

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,390
2,437
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
What are you trying to grease when you put four pounds of grease into the knuckle? Do you have Timken ball type axles?
If because it says so in the TM's then that TM was never up dated when the axles got switched to the cross style joints.
The old Timken ball type needed grease. Where you want to put a good amount of grease is in the inside of the spindle housing before you install it for the spindle bushing. When you install it and you get grease pushing out the end you got it right. Also if you have the cross style joints no grease in the knuckle will allow you if you go fording to take out one of the bottom bolts that hold on the bushing cap and check / drain out the water. I bet you have cross style axle joints.
 
Last edited:
Iceman3005

Iceman3005

Active member
933
96
28
Location
Holt, MI
Pretty sure it's never been updated, especially since the man I bought it from gave me an extra set of seals.

Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk
 
Iceman3005

Iceman3005

Active member
933
96
28
Location
Holt, MI
Floridianson said:
What are you trying to grease when you put four pounds of grease into the knuckle? Do you have Timken ball type axles?
If because it says so in the TM's then that TM was never up dated when the axles got switched to the cross style joints.
The old Timken ball type needed grease. Where you want to put a good amount of grease is in the inside of the spindle housing before you install it for the spindle bushing. When you install it and you get grease pushing out the end you got it right. Also if you have the cross style joints no grease in the knuckle will allow you if you go fording to take out one of the bottom bolts that hold on the bushing cap and check / drain out the water. I bet you have cross style axle joints.
Click to expand...
Your comment doesn't make any sense! Not removing the spindle or the axle shaft! Just fixing the knuckle boot. Per TM, after replacing knuckle boot, take out 2 screws in center of knuckle, fill with grease till it comes out.

According to several others it takes about 4 lbs of grease to fill.
 

Attachments

Floridianson

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,390
2,437
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
It's real simple if your axles are the old CV ball type the you would remove the two plugs and pump in grease till it comes out the other hole. New style axles with modern type U joints the grease will never make it into the needle bearings. Looks like you have a 1970 813 and I will bet that you have modern u joint axles. I hate zipper boots and will always pull the knuckle and clean it out of all old grease and check for gear oil from a bad axle seal or just replace the seal. This full service also gets me the wheel bearings repacked / preload set and brakes checked. As always your truck do what you fell is best just don't blow out your new rubber zipper boot.
 
Last edited:
T

Two Stroke Madness

Member
195
3
18
Location
Adams NY
Since you have zipper boots on there now that means that the front spindle maintenance has already been ignored once. If you have a u-joint axle shaft then packing the front knuckle full of grease will just waste a bunch of grease and not really lubricate much of anything.
 
Ajax MD

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,571
1,420
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Iceman3005 said:
Ya, that tells me nothing about what type, but I already figured it out. Read first post.
Click to expand...
I figured that you understood to use NLGI #2 grease, but I didn't know if you knew what the GAA acronym stood for. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Ajax MD

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,571
1,420
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Two Stroke Madness said:
Since you have zipper boots on there now that means that the front spindle maintenance has already been ignored once. If you have a u-joint axle shaft then packing the front knuckle full of grease will just waste a bunch of grease and not really lubricate much of anything.
Click to expand...
Does Iceman's photos show whether he has the CV ball type or U-joint type? I have a '71 and my steering axle looks like his. Is it possible that some 809's got one type of axle and other trucks got the other type?
 
Iceman3005

Iceman3005

Active member
933
96
28
Location
Holt, MI
When I get home from work today, I'm going to turn the wheel and pry open the tear and see if I have the cv style or u-joint.

Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk
 
Floridianson

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,390
2,437
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
I have only found one cv axle on a 60's era Deuce axle and the data tag on axle said Rockwell over Timken. All other axles I have found were from the 70's and say Rockwell over Rockwell. Check your data tag and let's see what is says but I bet 5 bucks your 5 ton is u joint. I have never seen a cv in a 5 ton but all the ones I have done were 70's.
 
Last edited:
Ajax MD

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,571
1,420
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Love the photos, thanks. I'm a visual learner so those are REALLY helpful. FWIW, I looked at the Lube Order for the M809's and it says:

"universal Joint and
Steering Knuckle Bearing
(See note 7) (LV-L,M) (0)"
 
1

162tcat

Active member
710
44
28
Location
Washington
Ajax MD said:
Love the photos, thanks. I'm a visual learner so those are REALLY helpful. FWIW, I looked at the Lube Order for the M809's and it says:

"universal Joint and
Steering Knuckle Bearing
(See note 7) (LV-L,M) (0)"
Click to expand...
After things go through rebuild a lot of the parts get mixed up so you never know what you'll find in the axles. I've found all different types in all different years. The only ones I've never seen the u join style in is the early M39 series. Lots of times when they go to rebuild if there are any issues the whole part like axles, transmission or engines were just swapped out. That is the case of my M817. The engine and axles both have a much newer build date on them than the truck.

Moral of the story is there is no real way to know what you have unless you open it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
108,262members
163,589threads
2,301,878posts
708online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks