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rear wheel leak...
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cucvrus
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At this point in time both are likely to leak. Easy fix. Change the axles seals, the wheel cylinders. I just changed 2 of them on an M1009 2 weeks ago for a customer. They are over 30 years old. I had to use a torch to get these off. 
Easy as that. Get a QT of DOT 5 brake fluid. I would even changed the axle tubing while you are at it. It's a simple task. Good Luck.
ke6axc
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On my M1009 it was the brake cylinder. Is your master cylinder down on brake fluid?
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Did you have to use the torch the get the brake drum off?
cucvrus
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NO I did not. I have in the past but not this time. Why do you ask?
I had to use the torch to get my rear wheels off, so I can imagine the drums are going to be just as fun.
On a more positive note:
I found out that the rear wheel cylinder were not leaking (bought new ones though). I didn't replace them, yet. because the bolts were so totally rusted that they were almost round (crapp).
So what is leaking is the seal. I'll see if AutoZone has a loaner tool to get the axle out. that's gonna be fun, I bet.
I found out that the rear wheel cylinder were not leaking (bought new ones though). I didn't replace them, yet. because the bolts were so totally rusted that they were almost round (crapp).
So what is leaking is the seal. I'll see if AutoZone has a loaner tool to get the axle out. that's gonna be fun, I bet.
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There is a clip (# 5 ) on the axle that you remove and the axle should slide right out.
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Yes
cucvrus
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Get a strong pencil magnet. Remove the lock bolt and never use it over again. Remove the center pin and push the axle in towards the center slightly. Use the magnet to grab that steel C clip. It is easier then you think. Pull the axle and do the same on the other side. Be sure to replace the lock bolt.
- Dorman 81048 gets you a new bolt for less then $5. US. The bolt has special locking adhesive and it has been stressed. Best to replace. Or NOT. It's your truck. When you reassemble push the axle in slightly and install the C clip. Pull out on the axle. Put the center pin back in and a new lock bolt. Good Luck. A torch will get the bolts off the wheel cylinders and a hardware store will have the 4- 5/16" X 18 x 1/2" bolt and 4- 5/16" star washers. The metal brake line is 3/16" and you can buy pre cut or double flare and make your own. Fun times in South Carolina. Not so much out side in Pennsylvania today.
nyoffroad
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This is why I use never-seize when re assembling parts like this, yeah it's messy when you get it on your hands but 2 or 30 years from now you'll be glad you used it!
nyoffroad
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Here we go about bolts again!
Defiantly replace that lock bolt! I had one that a DPO had broken of and left in there, that was fun.
cucvrus
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Never seize isn't going to stop the hex head from rotting off the bolt. And yes the OEM 5/16' bolts are grade 5 with a 3/8" hex head. The replacement ones should be grade 5 and will have a 1/2" hex head. Unless you want to look for Genuine GM wheel cylinders bolts. Good Luck. https://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf Just in case you don't trust my bolt suggestion.I use copper grease myself. Although that logic doesn't make sense. Maybe someone else someday will thank me that I've used it. But it wont benefit me for sure. Who knows what trucks ill have in 20 years
Will definitely get new lockbolts. Thank you for the tip, cucvrus.
a 1/2" bolt is definitely better than a 3/8" whrn it comes to removal down the road.
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