Just joined the Deuce club!

MudMarine said:

Man that paint job and decals are dope! I'd keep them there! Heck I'd add some old school globe style red lights and make that truck parade ready!

Glad you got home safe, sounds like a heck of an adventure!

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Agreed ! That is a really nice paint job !

MudMarine said:

Man that paint job and decals are dope! I'd keep them there! Heck I'd add some old school globe style red lights and make that truck parade ready!

Glad you got home safe, sounds like a heck of an adventure!

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Yep, I love those Fire Dept paint jobs. I'd keep it as is. Heck, you have recoveries down now. Go find a green one, can't just have one truck.

Scar59 said:

Yep, I love those Fire Dept paint jobs. I'd keep it as is. Heck, you have recoveries down now. Go find a green one, can't just have one truck.

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Well I tried to take off one of the door decals, heatgun and plastic scrapper, and ended up taking off the paint.
now I have to get out my vinyl cutter and make some crazy decal to cover the missing paint.

"sharknado defense command"
"MPG reduction force: for every gallon your prius doesn't use we use three"


As for recoveries, Now where near down pat, Dillion has it down pat, I have follow with flashers on down pat.

But I was shoveling the snow out of the bed and found a spare 9.00-20 NDT and a extra mudder on a 16.5 rim from a cucv probably. But also a top and full set of bows!
Checked the filters, good, tank pump good, pulled the plug on the HH and put in rod its moving so the pin is free, and fuel pukes out when I cranked it with the tank pump on. So I though maybe fuel rod? Looking at the IP I see the FDC was bypassed army style and had a tag on one of the fitting from toolee army depot form 1993 so I guess that is when that was done, the cover over the screw is still wired on.

I also saw somebody cut a IP access into the side of the louvers on the fender, bend them down and access, there also sharp so some nicks over the course of the day.
Pulled the side and there wasn't a gasket on the rod cover, so they probably tired that first and then sat on the truck for a while, it was inspected till april of 2018.
The lever moved but I pulled it anyway was pin covered in crud but moved so cleaned it , sprayed some lube in there and the FDC so see if was just hanging.

No good.

Some time later of bumping the starter and spining the Ujoint with a wrench the red line appears. Then there was the injectors line, let me tell you that they did not want to come out. I couldn't get the rear most one off so I had to take it off with the HH, and there was the problem where is the the spider clip and button?

There down in the oil in the IP gladly and not the crankcase, I fished the button out looks good, spider is missing a clip leg. Need to find one of my dozen magnetic pickup tools where ever they may be. And find the last bit of the clip.

Need to order the clip, now there is some wear on the cup side of the button replace it?

But after all that I pulled all the remaining wires from the 12v system and from a generator that had mounted under the bed, bed is coated in bed liner already.

Pictures one I find where my usb cable it. Finding things today is a hassle.

Salty jeeps


Test light set


View slots

Very stock with ether shot

HH with injector line

Looks like a m35 gasser fender to me, that's why it's so close to the engine. Later fenders had more clearance for the multifuel engines.

G'day everyone,....



How can anyone desecrate the splash guard vents like that!??









Aussie.

Aussie Bloke said:

G'day everyone,....



How can anyone desecrate the splash guard vents like that!??









Aussie.

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Easy, for access. After all it was not their personal vehicle so they didn't care.

DB556 said:

Well I tried to take off one of the door decals, heatgun and plastic scrapper, and ended up taking off the paint.
now I have to get out my vinyl cutter and make some crazy decal to cover the missing paint.

"sharknado defense command"
"MPG reduction force: for every gallon your prius doesn't use we use three"


As for recoveries, Now where near down pat, Dillion has it down pat, I have follow with flashers on down pat.

But I was shoveling the snow out of the bed and found a spare 9.00-20 NDT and a extra mudder on a 16.5 rim from a cucv probably. But also a top and full set of bows!
Checked the filters, good, tank pump good, pulled the plug on the HH and put in rod its moving so the pin is free, and fuel pukes out when I cranked it with the tank pump on. So I though maybe fuel rod? Looking at the IP I see the FDC was bypassed army style and had a tag on one of the fitting from toolee army depot form 1993 so I guess that is when that was done, the cover over the screw is still wired on.

I also saw somebody cut a IP access into the side of the louvers on the fender, bend them down and access, there also sharp so some nicks over the course of the day.
Pulled the side and there wasn't a gasket on the rod cover, so they probably tired that first and then sat on the truck for a while, it was inspected till april of 2018.
The lever moved but I pulled it anyway was pin covered in crud but moved so cleaned it , sprayed some lube in there and the FDC so see if was just hanging.

No good.

Some time later of bumping the starter and spining the Ujoint with a wrench the red line appears. Then there was the injectors line, let me tell you that they did not want to come out. I couldn't get the rear most one off so I had to take it off with the HH, and there was the problem where is the the spider clip and button?

There down in the oil in the IP gladly and not the crankcase, I fished the button out looks good, spider is missing a clip leg. Need to find one of my dozen magnetic pickup tools where ever they may be. And find the last bit of the clip.

Need to order the clip, now there is some wear on the cup side of the button replace it?

But after all that I pulled all the remaining wires from the 12v system and from a generator that had mounted under the bed, bed is coated in bed liner already.

Pictures one I find where my usb cable it. Finding things today is a hassle.

Click to expand...

The wear on the bottom of the "button" sounds normal, so just reuse it. Make sure the concave part goes "up" to the pump rod and not "down" to the piston.

rustystud said:

The wear on the bottom of the "button" sounds normal, so just reuse it. Make sure the concave part goes "up" to the pump rod and not "down" to the piston.

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I'll get a better picture of the button, the bottom with the slot looks fine but the top where its concave looks like it has some metal to metal contact that polished it. Unless it was polished already.

Congrats with the nice looking deuce that you scored @ a good price.

DB556 said:

I'll get a better picture of the button, the bottom with the slot looks fine but the top where its concave looks like it has some metal to metal contact that polished it. Unless it was polished already.

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The button should look polished. That is how it comes from the factory. Nice and smooth.

The polish section, is polished but one section looks alittle off centered like the spider held it in place but off at a angle till I pulled the HH.
I cleaned the button and the hold that goes threw it was clogged with crud, so I'm guessing the button's wear surface lost lubrication.
I bought three clips from ambac, only $18 shipped, I should have gotten a button while I was at it and a bowtie, to put in the just in case truck box.
I went to a oring shop yesterday and got viton orings, I just realized the orings I got off amazon where silicon (atleast there were cheap not worth sending back so I'll have to make a harpoon gun or potato cannon to mount in the bed with them) The chips should be here today so I might have a running deuce by tomorrow!

Now a quick reinstall the HH question, do I slid the HH back on so the red tooth lines back up with the indicator? I've seen in some thread people talking about lining it up with tooth valley before the scribe/red tooth? if that is correct which before? the the mark to the left or the right of the indicator?

Now on to some modification,
I've been giving thought to doing a long bed bobber, so single rear axle but stock bed length to make it handle a bit better, also drop a 1000ish pounds
Then selling the 9.00-20's since there pretty new, and going to 11.00-20 G177's but before that doing a front disc brake setup from a F550 since the front does most of the braking.

I've been also planing on mounting a small knuckle boom crane I got a few months ago. Picture below, (bad picture, all I have its under a tarp at the moment)
it has large long base, I'm thinking of cutting it down to just the size of the pivot section (20"x18") and relocating the pump and valve under the bed where the spare was originally. Cutting down the base will allow me to mount my engine welder(lincoln weldnpower 225) right next to it, and I'll make a brace to park the arm above the welder.

Now I'm thinking of mounting the arm in the driver side corner of the bed and making a sub frame under the bed out of 3" channel (I have a bunch) and putting in a hydraulic drop leg under the crane of support the weight. Now the question if valve on another forum I post one of the guy thought it might be good to mount the valves in the tool box. that would work but I would have to jump in and out of the bed to unhook stuff. So I'm thinking I find some 3 position solenoid valves and make a corded remote control box to control the function, pivot, shoulder lift, arm lift, extend, winch, leg, and switches for the ton of LED work lights I'm going to mount on it as a poor mans light plant.

Any thoughts or anybody have 6 spool set of solenoid valves they dont need?

Well the spider didn't come in yet so probably monday, right in time for some more snow

I took some pictures of the button, Do most pumps have the 01 button? Mine is stamped 03, from the pictures of other thread about the HH and etc I see a few of those buttons are convex on one side and concave on the other. This one is flat on one side and concave on the other, on the concave side I see some wear marks. Do you think this button wore itself flat? I mean it does look evenly polished so that probably didn't happen. But I wonder if this was taken apart and another button put in its place?

Then I went and took a spin threw a large puddle as a free under carriage wash. Put the snorkle on my jeep TJ to work.

Very large puddle....
Silly barges the Ohio river is for jeeps!...

And I got it running!
Got home from work and found the package from ambac, it was ripped open but I found the clip on the stairs up to my porch hurrah!

When I got down to the truck it was already 18:00 but by 20:00 it was running great, till I found out about the poor mans security system somebody put in.
If the engine runs more than 2 minutes the horns go off, air, electric, and including the hidden air horn under the dash!
After unplugging every horn and sitting with at test lamp I back traced it to a timer module tied to the starter switch.
Turn on the power, as soon as you tap the start button the timer starts 2 minutes later, horns. Its bunch of knotted wiring fun so I'll deal with it this weekend during the day.
I think I honked my neighbors out enough tonight.

Though a few questions on the brakes, the pedal doesn't drop to the floor like a rock but I'm not feeling the resistance I remember from my buddies m35
I know I have air pressure, the horns told me that. Any quick tips on diagnosing airpack, lines or wheel cylinders?

Also I'm missing the shift handle what do you guys think I should use? 8 ball? inert grenade? etc?

Have you first checked to make sure you have brake fluid in the master cylinder?

Fatalid said:

Have you first checked to make sure you have brake fluid in the master cylinder?

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I did when I to pick it up and there was fluid, I didn't check to see if it was dot 3 or 5. Now we did have to tow it, so brakes weren't needed on the deuce anyway
I'll pop down there tomorrow morning and check again maybe its level is lower.

DB556 said:

And I got it running!
Got home from work and found the package from ambac, it was ripped open but I found the clip on the stairs up to my porch hurrah!

When I got down to the truck it was already 18:00 but by 20:00 it was running great, till I found out about the poor mans security system somebody put in.
If the engine runs more than 2 minutes the horns go off, air, electric, and including the hidden air horn under the dash!
After unplugging every horn and sitting with at test lamp I back traced it to a timer module tied to the starter switch.
Turn on the power, as soon as you tap the start button the timer starts 2 minutes later, horns. Its bunch of knotted wiring fun so I'll deal with it this weekend during the day.
I think I honked my neighbors out enough tonight.

Though a few questions on the brakes, the pedal doesn't drop to the floor like a rock but I'm not feeling the resistance I remember from my buddies m35
I know I have air pressure, the horns told me that. Any quick tips on diagnosing airpack, lines or wheel cylinders?

Also I'm missing the shift handle what do you guys think I should use? 8 ball? inert grenade? etc?

Click to expand...

I love that alarm system ! Especially the hidden dash horn ! Find out how to deactivate it and keep it. Beats trying to hide a fuel shut-off switch.

Finally got the SF97 in the mail today!

Time to....work on my jeep since the transmission just stopped while coming home from work today....

Guess I'll go to AAA next week

Found the switch!

It was the map reading light! they replaced the lamp with a ground down bolt that was glued into the cap and rewired the socket so you turned it out a few turns and it cut power to the relay module. I'm putting my EGT gauge there so not a loss.