Laundry list for the m1009

Found the crack while pulling glow plugs yesterday. Noticed a trail of fluid running down in between 6 and 8. Cleaned the area before firing up and it came back. Its about 1 1/2in long and branches, Once engine is warmed up it appears to stop.

I like having a diesel with great gas mileage but this engine is such a pain. If I could get it to start reliably I would keep it. Now it needs new glow-plugs because the relay stuck open again. I know I'm going to be trading my current problems for new ones, but I feel the advantages of increased power and reliable starting outweigh gas mileage and ease of maintenance.

Is it possible it is a head gasket leaking?

If you put in an engine like that, also plan on replacing the rear end to at least a 12 bolt or similar.

cucvrus said:

Is it possible it is a head gasket leaking?

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That was my initial thought but the trail of fluid starts below the head.

Tinstar said:

If you put in an engine like that, also plan on replacing the rear end to at least a 12 bolt or similar.

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Yep a 454 will set the GovBomb off quick.

I paid less than $500 for two, running at takeout, complete 6.2Ls in Military engine shipping containers.
Sold one that more than paid for both.
Had someone offer to sell another one for $600 by someone who stopped to talk about CUCVs when leaving a restaurant.

Point is, unless you want the hassle of swapping engines and the rear end, it’s a lot cheaper and easier to replace your with another 6.2L.
Easy to find and fairly inexpensive.

A different engine, etc. will also devalue it substantially for most folks.
Edit: If you ever decide to sell it.

So the crack is in the water jacket and not in the combustion chambers?
May sound strange but I would weld it. If the engine runs good and it is static coolant leak I would get a good welder to weld the cast iron block. I have welded blocks before. Damaged cast iron engines that were low mileage from salvage yards. If it is your truck and you have the engine out and on a stand I would weld the water jacket of the block. V it out and weld it. I say it is worth a try. And if it holds up I would keep going. Just an idea. Save a lot of work and frustration. Good Luck.

Gramps said:

Found the crack while pulling glow plugs yesterday. Noticed a trail of fluid running down in between 6 and 8. Cleaned the area before firing up and it came back. Its about 1 1/2in long and branches, Once engine is warmed up it appears to stop.
I like having a diesel with great gas mileage but this engine is such a pain. If I could get it to start reliably I would keep it. Now it needs new glow-plugs because the relay stuck open again. I know I'm going to be trading my current problems for new ones, but I feel the advantages of increased power and reliable starting outweigh gas mileage and ease of maintenance.

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I know it’s frustrating to keep chasing issues.
Been there when I first got mine.
Once you get everything worked out and correct, you will be happy with the results.
Hang in there!

Sure more power with a gas engine would be nice, but the sound of the 6.2 Diesel is wonderful.
To me at least.

I've done the 6.2 to SBC twice. Once on a 82 C30 and the M1008

Accessories won't swap over but not difficult to source brackets. I did have a 454 at one point when i first got the 1008, but decided to go SB. Big block will fit, but not as much room to work, and parts much more expensive!!!! Bell housing and trans good. I swapped convertors and reworked the governor weights/springs to change shift points. I swapped to vacuum brake booster also. Delco 10si alternator...

Pull engine and trans separate, especially if front clip still on truck! Way too heavy and cumbersome. And, with everything lifted that high gets a little dangerous moving a hoist if you can even get it high enough

Yep, maybe decreases value, but i'm not selling and i use it as a work vehicle. Retired from the military, driving a CUCV, HMMWV, Five ton, duece, even the 880's and Jeeps wasn't necessarily fun! ****, just gave away how freaking old i am...

You'll have to adapt radiator hoses, but nothing difficult. Exhaust pipes will bolt right up. My restoration is getting headers this time around....

Have had the 350 in the truck for ten years and very happy with it. (then again, lots of experience with Gen 1 SBs...)
With the resto, Short block just installed, 30 over forged, mild cam, intake with worked quadrajet, HEI, not much to go wrong! . KISS

It works for me!



Eric

Ended up talking to the owner of the land where I keep it. He's a pretty experienced welder and said pretty much exactly what cucvrus stated above. He's going to help me with welding it. I would like to swap the engine, but I want to do it right, The funds aren't where they need to be for that to happen so I'll be waiting a while. Hopefully I can weld it up this weekend who knows though. Thanks for the advice.

I found this while digging around for words to help with the welding. It pretty much sums it up. I have a few good blocks in PA if you ever get by this way. Very inexpensive. I hope this helps. I fixed a few forklift blocks back when money was tight.

1) Degrease as best as you can. Oil & grease are your enemy.
2) Grind out crack as deep as possible or practicable.
3) preheat area 3" or so around the weld area...just enough to take the chill out of it
4) Weld, pean, weld pean ...don't stop until it's filled.
5) Have torch ready to POST heat and warm it up good...too hot to touch if possible but nowhere near cherry red (300 F temp stick)
6) Pean one more time and either wrap tightly in insulation and tie with wire OR pack clean dry sand onto weld area (insulation) if possible.
7) Let it cool off and check for cracks. Sometimes you get horizontal surface cracks on the weld bead but otherwise the weld seems sound.
Don't give up if your first attempt fails. You may have to do this more than once.
9) Try a different type of cast rod if all else fails.

There are numerous new cast electrodes out there that produce much better weld quality than the old Ni-rod. I don't have the brand names handy. All are very expensive. Check with your local welding supply store.
Good Luck

I can get a-hold of some Lincoln tech-rod 99 and 55 rods at school. Root pass with 99 then cover with 55.

This looks like an easier route then changing the engine. And if it works and holds the other repairs will still be easier then the engine change. Good Luck.

Tinstar said:

I paid less than $500 for two, running at takeout, complete 6.2Ls in Military engine shipping containers.
Point is, unless you want the hassle of swapping engines and the rear end, it’s a lot cheaper and easier to replace your with another 6.2L.
Easy to find and fairly inexpensive.

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Just because you got something in 1 place means nothing... a CHEAP 6.2 in these parts is 750... a decent 1k and lol have fun finding one. Like your own story PROVES the value... you got lucky with your buy.

OP plan to get like, 5mpg with a 454... BTW lol motor mounts are not the same IIRC... we use gas 350 mounts... a 454 well uses 454 mounts...

Matt5 said:

Just because you got something in 1 place means nothing... a CHEAP 6.2 in these parts is 750... a decent 1k and lol have fun finding one. Like your own story PROVES the value... you got lucky

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I know the location matters.
You missed the point.

Even at $1k, it would still be cheaper than making a big block fit and swapping rear ends.

Well thank you very much for that motor mount information. But I think his main concern was the frame perches part of the motor mount. Not the actual motor mount. And it has been a while but the big block mounts will fit the frame perches. I don't recall drilling the frame on the truck frames back in the days when doing a 454 upgrade was a popular thing. Nowadays people are updating to LS engines. I never done an LS swap. But that looks like a nice updated engine. I seen a few in older 80's Chevrolet4 x 4 trucks. Have a Great Evening.

Had some help welding the block this past weekend, took a couple tries but its filled and holding pressure. However my no-start issues continue. Checked the fuel filter again it is was completely clogged replaced it but now not getting fuel up into the filter. Dipped the tank to make sure gauge is accurate seems to be about half full. I think I'm dealing with clogged lines. If I just blasted air through them would that damage anything?

Hate to tell you this but I would drop the tank and change the fuel pick up sock. While you have it out blow out all the lines and start from there. That is a tough job getting the tank up and down. I would say 8 hours start to finish doing it right and cleaning and painting as you go. Good Luck. Replace all hardware as you go.

cucvrus said:

Hate to tell you this but I would drop the tank and change the fuel pick up sock. While you have it out blow out all the lines and start from there. That is a tough job getting the tank up and down. I would say 8 hours start to finish doing it right and cleaning and painting as you go. Good Luck. Replace all hardware as you go.

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Was afraid that would have-to happen. Nice to have that skid plate, Hating it now.

Not that bad. 6 9/16" hex headed 3/8" bolts. If they are tight spray them and use a ratchet and work them out. Use a propane torch to heat them. Provided you checked for fuel leaks. After they are out. Toss the old ones and buy 6 new ones. Same as the 7/16" strap nuts. Heat them, remove them and lube and replace the nuts. I do not reuse old rusty fasteners. These will never make it to Barret Jackson where they are checking the threads count and hex head marks. Good Luck. Make it a goal to get the skid plater off 1 day and the fuel tank out the next day or next week. Whatever recovery time you need. Always works for me when completing monumental tasks.