1968 finishing

Got her all sorted out. Replaced the front wiring harness so I have blinkers. Properly timed the injection head and pump so I have power. She runs and drives so well, I’m selling my LDS back up motor. She’s pretty much a blank slate. So now I’m trying to understand the markings on the bumper and the hood. There are so many different ways of doing it, it looks like I just have to pick what I like the best and go with that. I still need some here and there things. But Rom wasn’t Built in a day. I am super happy with where I’m at now

Man does good in Texas.
Another Attaboy!

Thank you Sir. Here’s another picture with the cold weather mask. She’s come a long way from when I nursed her home in 2nd gear.

The army had a tm for marking vehicles the number of which escapes me. Prior to the coming of camouflage paints schemes in 1975 to registration number was displayed on the sides of the hood in 3" letters and (cargo trucks) on the back of the body. Couple of pics from RVN in 1972 illustrate the point.

Sorry to go off topic a bit but, in the second pic(rear of truck) above I only see one rear axle.

Anyone else notice this?

Sure enough, on axel. No wonder they are stacked in there like that.

I see 4 sections to the bed side, same a normal bed.

Odd

doghead said:

I see 4 sections to the bed side, same a normal bed.

Odd

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It is the same truck in the first picture, shadow of the axle looks to be there. Second picture sure seems to be missing.
Optical illusion?

KevinGaus said:

So now I’m trying to understand the markings on the bumper and the hood. There are so many different ways of doing it, it looks like I just have to pick what I like the best and go with that. I still need some here and there things. But Rom wasn’t Built in a day.

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For US ARMY markings, the hood markings changed in 1968 in that the format changed to include the year the vehicle was accepted into the Army on the end. An example of a 68' marking for a deuce would be 04A00168. This would be the first class 4 vehicle accepted by the Army for 1968. The A and the 001 work together to show which number of class 4 vehicle built that this one is. A 001 would be the first, A 999 would be the 999th one built. The next one, #1,000, built would be B 001. Once 999 were built as B's, the marking would change to C 001 at number 1,999 and so on. The 68 is the year, 1968, and does not change for any vehicle made that year. Unfortunately once the original numbers are lost, there is very little chance of recovering as they didn't keep records very long. The accepted thing in the collector world is to use the last of the vin # to make up the numbers since it would then be obvious to collectors that they are not original numbers and should not be counted as such if anyone is doing research on original numbers. As for the bumper or unit markings, Reading such markings from left to right on a front bumper would tell us a lot about the vehicles assignment, to include:

1. The Major Command it is assigned to
2. The Intermediate Command it is assigned to
3. The Unit or Activity it is assigned to
4. The vehicle number for convoy purposes, aka: Order of March

If you have any questions, you can contact me here or through my decal site, http://www.deltateamdecals.com

If I was closer to you then I'd be interested in that motor. Beautiful truck though!

On a M35 the vin# is stamped on the left frame rail between the front spring hangers. At least on mine it is. The truck was made in 1971 as described in post 9 and the registration number that was originally stenciled on both sides of the hood as pictured in post 4 is now stenciled on the inside of both doors. I believe the military changed the registration number system around 1972 as I had a M817 from that year which had a registration number that began with "N." It was my experience that most organizational record keeping used the registration number and the manufacturer's vin was largely ignored. I bought several trucks from Government Liquidation that were titled with the registration number and not the vin.

Sir, your truck looks great! Is they any chance you can join us at the Texas Rally this year (March 22-24 in College Station)? There are details here:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?184309-2019-TX-MV-Rally

m715mike said:

Sir, your truck looks great! Is they any chance you can join us at the Texas Rally this year (March 22-24 in College Station)? There are details here:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?184309-2019-TX-MV-Rally

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Man that sounds like fun. I’m a little north of Dallas. So I would have to leave now to get there in time. Baring any mechanic issues.

I’m thinking about mounting the gun. But I’m thinking I need “reinforcement parts for the cab. I don’t know what I’m missing if anything. Inside is looking good now, but I would like the proper data plate to cover the caution sticker. Still no lead chain for the winch, bows or cargo cover set. But I’ve got spare parts to sell and traid, from two wiring harness, lights, nato slave port, to an LDS, PS, and 5ton springs. Funny, all the extra parts and equipment you end up with when you’re fixing up your truck.

KevinGaus said:

I’m thinking about mounting the gun. But I’m thinking I need “reinforcement parts for the cab. .

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Check with Mkcoen. He might still have the cab reinforcement kits.

m715mike said:

Check with Mkcoen. He might still have the cab reinforcement kits.

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I sent Mkcoen a question/request.

KevinGaus said:

View attachment 754253View attachment 754254View attachment 754255I’m thinking about mounting the gun. But I’m thinking I need “reinforcement parts for the cab. I don’t know what I’m missing if anything. Inside is looking good now, but I would like the proper data plate to cover the caution sticker. Still no lead chain for the winch, bows or cargo cover set. But I’ve got spare parts to sell and traid, from two wiring harness, lights, nato slave port, to an LDS, PS, and 5ton springs. Funny, all the extra parts and equipment you end up with when you’re fixing up your truck.

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The data plate that you are missing from the dash is the one about idling the engine to prevent turbo damage.

67Beast said:

The data plate that you are missing from the dash is the one about idling the engine to prevent turbo damage.

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That’s the one! I’ve got four holes for the rivets. I don’t know if that will fit the existing holes. Also,all of my data plates have a green hue to them is it proper to have a different color data plate?

Nice truck!

Road trip