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1950 Kaiser Jeep M35A2

cattlerepairman

cattlerepairman

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David Matthews, if you plan to use the truck for your shop, and it doesn't have a winch, yet, then I would agree that a heavy duty electrical winch might be the better choice. Why? Because when people other than yourself drive this truck, they will be able to use the electric winch safely. The PTO winch is for two-person operation or, by one person that is uber-cautious and knows what he/she is doing. In a shop setting, I'd be leaning to the safer side.

If you have a shop, more power to you! You already have (most of) the tools and skills to make this a great truck.
 
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David Matthews

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cattlerepairman said:
David Matthews, if you plan to use the truck for your shop, and it doesn't have a winch, yet, then I would agree that a heavy duty electrical winch might be the better choice. Why? Because when people other than yourself drive this truck, they will be able to use the electric winch safely. The PTO winch is for two-person operation or, by one person that is uber-cautious and knows what he/she is doing. In a shop setting, I'd be leaning to the safer side.

If you have a shop, more power to you! You already have (most of) the tools and skills to make this a great truck.
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Well. We deal with smaller diesels. Dodge Ford GM. So not sure what I'm going to need to work on this dude. Everything now day's is electronic. Where this is all mechanical. Which I absolutely love. I'm working on getting some A3 Wheels & 395 Tires for it now. When I get those in I'll dive into the brakes, see what's the issue. Then we can start knocking stuff off the list.
 
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texas30cal

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Yes 395’s and 2500 (as accurate as the tach is) get you 62mph, but it’s PLENTY fast, just allow extra time for travel, and it prob won’t get 62 with a loaded trailer. As stated #1 brakes/bearings, then everything else.
 
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David Matthews

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texas30cal said:
Yes 395’s and 2500 (as accurate as the tach is) get you 62mph, but it’s PLENTY fast, just allow extra time for travel, and it prob won’t get 62 with a loaded trailer. As stated #1 brakes/bearings, then everything else.
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I figured out my brake issue. All this driving has uncovered quiet a few leaks. I've ran into this before on older vehicles that sat parked for extended periods of time. I'm assuming, haven't looked yet, but the master cyl is rebuildable. I'm going to get some 10 lug rims and 395 tires. Machine an adapter plate, and when I swap tires I'll service/check the hubs. Change the oil and upgrade the filters to the spin on style, rebuild master cyl and see what else needs attention.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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David Matthews

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So if you guys had a choice between Aluminum MRAP wheels and A3 wheels. Which one would you choose? Weight seems like a substantial amount. But is it really going to make a difference. I have a quote for 6 wheels and tires for 1800 for A3's and 2100 for MRAP with adapters. 395/85r20 MVT's. Also is there really any difference other than appearance in tread pattern between the different styles of Tires?? These are 80-90% and he's fairly close to me so I can go pick up.
 
NDT

NDT

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Go for the aluminum wheels, the A3 wheels tend to leak. Check your tire date codes, the MVTs have been out for over 10+ years now.
 
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David Matthews

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Ok. Got the XZL's and MRAP wheels for 1700. when they come in I will be tearing all the hubs apart and servicing them as well as the brakes.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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