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Options for a Snapped U-joint and Damaged Shaft End

My M1031 been doing good for a while but recently some rough four wheeling snapped the u-joint on my front driver side axle shaft (the longer one) and damaged the yoke holes pretty good on the axle shaft end. Driving it in two wheel still but tonight it's stuck in my driveway from no four wheel drive so need to fix soon.I can try to call around Fairbanks (nearest city). The junkies I've tried are terrible at finding the right parts over the phone and most don't know what I talk about when I mention a CUCV. So:
.What do I say I'm looking for or need to fix (Dana 60 etc etc ??) so I don't have the wrong thing shipped in.
I know a great drive train shop in Fairbanks and they may be able to reconstruct the damaged end. They did some amazing things with driveshafts for me before. Welded new ends on before.
Ideally I would buy a new/used one and just put it in. Any places/people out there to buy? Thanks for help. I did look through all my tech manuals and alot of older posts first but just not sure. Stan
 

cucvrus

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I may be able to help. But can you show what is busted? I doubt they can rebuild axle shafts. That is a solid forged piece. A picture at least so we know what you need. Trying to help from a long way off.
 

ehuppert

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Lot of things i would have welded, but inner axle probably isn't one of them! Too much work to get in there to half step it!!!!

not sure if these are correct, but....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spz-35125/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gta-97-2034-010/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spz-35098/overview/

I'm pretty certain some off roader has axles due to upgrades, but you won't find them until it's fixed.....

Make sure you get the bearing kit for the stub axle while you're in there, and a new spicer u joint... Would imagine the dust shield is toast also?

Eric
 

MarcusOReallyus

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The junkies I've tried are terrible at finding the right parts over the phone and most don't know what I talk about when I mention a CUCV.
So don't mention a CUCV. You'll just spin their tiny brains, and then they are no good to you at all.

It's a 1984 Chevy K30. Very little about the truck is anything else, and that stuff is obvious. (Blackout lights, the 24/12v electrical, and the like.)
 

Jericho

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Hello from your old stomping ground Stan ! I don't have any. if you can get a good part number I can run them down for you if you cant find any local Once you get a good NAPA or cross part number its all easy Any CUCV guys on here with those numbers please . let me know if you need anything Andy in Landaff NH Jericho Only 43 days till spring (in Florida) !
 
Thank you all - you are incredible.
CUCVUS - I will get a good picture - sounds like I may just be able to buy one pretty reasonably.
ehubbert - Those are the babies - one of the long ones. Thanks for the hints on extra parts needed.
MarcusOReallyus - Good to know that - I keep getting confused on that point. thanks
Jericho - transmission still doing good by the way. I'll see if anyone has the part number for the drivers side longer shaft and start by calling NAPA. Sounds like this is going to be not to bad to fix.

So far it sounds like I got to replace:
1. axle shaft
2. Spicer u joint
3. dust shield
4. stub axle bearing kit
5. ??
 
Last edited:

ehuppert

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spicer # (from CUCV 34p) 660182-6

Inner wheel bearing seal and tub o grease. Should clean and pack bearings while you're in there!

don't believe NAPA will be the source! Just used their pro-link and part doesn't show up. but worth a try...
 

ehuppert

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Dust shield presses on outer stub and probably got destroyed (maybe not?) It's just tin, maybe able to straighten as may not be real easy to source
 

TGP (IL)

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Search 84 K30 as mentioned. Has Dana 60 front axle.

The summit links posted are not correct according to there
Make/model drop down list.

Make sure they fit.

Tom
 
Last edited:

TGP (IL)

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NO.
The entire run of the CUCV was based on the 84 model year so as not to change and
Confuse personal.
While some parts of a 86 model civilian truck are the same some are not.

Always 1984 Chev K30 will get you want you want.
As mentioned DO NOT mention CUCV to a parts counter unless using
A dedicated military vendor.
Tom
 
CUCVUSIMG_0602.jpg

I may be able to help. But can you show what is busted? I doubt they can rebuild axle shafts. That is a solid forged piece. A picture at least so we know what you need. Trying to help from a long way off.
CUCVUS - The yoke hole where the u joint goes is egg shaped somewhat now from the "accident" and so will not take a new U joint. The yoke/shaft on the tire side is also scuffed up some and now think it best to replace that also even though I think a U joint may fit again as the original is still in place ??. So looking at getting both yoke/shafts on both sides of the U joint. Any one got good used ones - may have a line on new ones but still working on it.
 
That is good info to know. In all my looking around on this site and looking at manuals I never picked that up. Thank You, Stan
NO.
The entire run of the CUCV was based on the 84 model year so as not to change and
Confuse personal.
While some parts of a 86 model civilian truck are the same some are not.

Always 1984 Chev K30 will get you want you want.
As mentioned DO NOT mention CUCV to a parts counter unless using
A dedicated military vendor.
Tom
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
You are in a bind. If it were me and I needed to have the truck now. I would weld the cap of the U joint in place. I have done it before. I needed to keep equipment going. I mean this is not the end of the world. weld it run it and in the mean time find replacement parts. I would never sit out the rest of the game for a scuffed knee. Good Luck. But I think you have this covered.
 

ehuppert

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Location
Upstate NY
Outer stub bearing kit with seals: National SBK-3

Spicer greaseable ujoint:
SPL55-4X

Dennys below has all the right parts. For future dig into the tms (p series) for GM part numbers and diagrams!

[url]https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c716_dana_60_front_chevy.html


I'm fairly familiar with this job as I'm in the middle of a resotartion and just did my lower king pin bearings and the joint. You could attempt to make the yoke round to hold the cup and weld but that would mean going there twice! I don't even like doing some of this stuff the first time, so i always plan on not going back (no half stepping if i can help it!)

[/URL]
 
Thanks CUCV
I'm fine with no four wheel drive and even if we get some good snow I can chain up. Just have to have it fixed by spring. Like May 1st say. Driving snowgoes and dogs now mostly anyway. Just need a place to buy them, new or used in good shape. Got a friend in Fairbanks looking also. Stan
You are in a bind. If it were me and I needed to have the truck now. I would weld the cap of the U joint in place. I have done it before. I needed to keep equipment going. I mean this is not the end of the world. weld it run it and in the mean time find replacement parts. I would never sit out the rest of the game for a scuffed knee. Good Luck. But I think you have this covered.
 

ehuppert

Active member
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Location
Upstate NY
Also axles on ebay, search using the spicer part number above!.... Maybe i should be down in the garage working on my truck instead of surfing the net
 

steelsoldiers

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Gotta love axle shaft carnage! I snapped this one off in the front diff on my 1009. It was fun fishing that piece out. I saved it to remind myself to take it easy because it’s a huge PITA to fix on the side of a trail.

Good luck with your repair!
 

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