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Thread: M35A3 and 809 series hood, thoughts on

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    4 Star General tobyS's Avatar
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    Default M35A3 and 809 series hood, thoughts on

    I took the headlights off the M35A3 and started to convert (make) a wider housing that has the turn lights on the outside of the headlights AND to limit the amount of debris that can get behind them with a walk plate (diamond plate) that is substantially reinforced and attaches at the fender support

    I have to repair a couple of large fender rust holes from behind those headlight units and I hate that the turn light is where I can't even open the side panel, on top of the headlight.

    Thus I'm looking at alternatives for the front and thinking beyond only headlights.

    Hanks Deuce uses a hood from the M51A2 or some such machine, that is longer than the hood of an A3, I think about 6". It's not rounded quite like the 809 series but gives a good indication of what the front would look like if I put an 809 series hood on my M35A3.

    My fiberglass hood is draining water inside on the drivers side, saturating insulation and not keeping it out, forcing me to look for alternatives.

    I would like your opinion of extending the front of my A3 with a frame extension, move of the radiator forward a little and other changes, like lights.

    I think I have an 809 hood located. What do you think of mating the 809 series hood and making new cowling on an A3 giving it a little more air up front and longer. Here is the deuce and the other is my 817 with that same hood. I'll take a new pic with the lights removed.
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    dumpsterlandingfromorbit! gimpyrobb's Avatar
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    I was under the impression the 800 series hood was WAY longer, like a foot or so. Have you taken any measurements?

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    4 Star General Scar59's Avatar
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    Ok, just came in from the yard; M809 hood length- 63.5". M35A2 - 50.0", M35A3-52.5". These measurements were taken from the back/side edge to the front edge where it meets the grill. Measurements were eyeballed with a non-calibrated tape rule. O.A.T. - 63 degree F. Relative humidity-75% wind- SW @ 16 mph.
    I'm not saying let's eliminate all the stupid people. I'm just saying let's remove all the warning labels and let the problem work itself out.



    1997 M35A3C, 1987 M35A2C, 1973 M35A2C, 1971 M813A1 W/W, 1985 M931A1, 1985 M925, 1972 m817, 1984 M936, 1984 M923, M105A1 (4ea), 1972 M38A1, MEP 002a on M116A3. MEP531A, MEP501s
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    4 Star General tobyS's Avatar
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    Thanks for the measurements Scar59 (and Gimpyrobb). The extra length of 11" is a lot and 13.5"... even more. I had read 8" but that is clearly wrong. 8" seemed to be okay but the longer length is going to require some more thought and mock-up....11" seems excessive.

    I wonder if the hood could be shortened at the cab (about 4" off) and still fit right? It doesn't appear to have a lot of taper. Since I sold the 817 I can't just go look. Thanks again for your help.

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    4 Star General SETOYOTA's Avatar
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    Why not just fix where it’s leaking? The fiber glass hood is the preferred unit for the a3.
    Have owned A whole bunch of jeeps, trucks and armor. Still have a few.

    I love my carbon footprint and no I don't own a Toyota.

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    4 Star General tobyS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SETOYOTA View Post
    Why not just fix where itís leaking? The fiber glass hood is the preferred unit for the a3.
    On the A3 I had that sold to the onion farm, the fan was so close to the radiator that it had hit it at some point, damaging the radiator (probably took a new fan blade).

    This A3 fan is very close, but has not hit the radiator (yet). I would like to free up some space and the headlight/turn signal rebuilding project that I have going would be different if I use the long hood. It does require a lot of changes to hoses and connections, so is more than just the hood and side panels to lengthen it. I took duct take to the divert the water for now...the insulation is still saturated.
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    Last edited by tobyS; 02-09-2019 at 16:07.

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    4 Star General tobyS's Avatar
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    To keep the front area open for a winch or snow plow to be mounted, I'm going to extend the frame 18" straight out and remount the bumper. I'll get a 1/4" diamond plate for the whole area to fit at the top height of the frame, reinforce the outer bumper and attach to the fender support. Plate will start 24" x 7'2". I can cut the plate and mount a winch or plow later and have a large work surface to move things forward.

    Now an 11" length of the front does not seem so extreme. I would like about 8" longer however.

    Here is the next question? Can I cut the 809 hood off a few inches at the cab and rework the hinge area and have it fit right? I'm reasonable welder but not stick on thin. I have access to a wire welder set up for sheet metal (not mine...it's buried in a trailer). Making a support frame is not out of the question, but I like the hood folding over center too with military style hinges.

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    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobyS View Post
    To keep the front area open for a winch or snow plow to be mounted, I'm going to extend the frame 18" straight out and remount the bumper. I'll get a 1/4" diamond plate for the whole area to fit at the top height of the frame, reinforce the outer bumper and attach to the fender support. Plate will start 24" x 7'2". I can cut the plate and mount a winch or plow later and have a large work surface to move things forward.

    Now an 11" length of the front does not seem so extreme. I would like about 8" longer however.

    Here is the next question? Can I cut the 809 hood off a few inches at the cab and rework the hinge area and have it fit right? I'm reasonable welder but not stick on thin. I have access to a wire welder set up for sheet metal (not mine...it's buried in a trailer). Making a support frame is not out of the question, but I like the hood folding over center too with military style hinges.
    Here's how I extended my frame.
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...Bumper-Project

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    Thanks Rusty...yours is really heavy duty...nice job. You seem to have more sticking out to attach to than I do. That must be the difference of the A2 and A3. I'd like to go that far in but would have a lot to disconnect. I'm thinking about butt welding an 8x3x1/4 formed section and plating heavy (1/2" thick) hanging down, keeping open space for plow mounts to be welded on later. Maybe I should have an inner formed plate too.

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