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About my new 1028

cucvrus

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could it be the shutoff solenoid? Or is it more likely the injection pump itself is the issue?
Use a test light and see if the red wire on the top of the pump gets 12 volts when the key is on. I doubt it is the shut off. It is more than likely the inside of the injection pump. Do you have the nuts loose at the delivery nozzles? When you crank it over it should at least make the nozzles wet. I had several that did nothing. The inside of the injection pump had issues. Do you have access to a used pump? Before I bought a new one I would put a used injection pump on that is known to work. That may not be an option for you if you don't have one. Report back. I may have a used injection pump from a blown CUCV plow truck engine. You are heading in the right direction. Good Luck.
 

319cssb

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I think i checked for voltage at the connector before. Will check again today. Also ill listen for it to engage with voltage applied. I dont have a injection pump. I cracked one of the injector lines open and get no fluid or wetness coming out. I get fuel coming from the return hose on top. Maybe its just a lose connection, but that sorta thing never happens. I think the PO more likely fried the pump by turning it over for a period of time without fuel going in. Ill report back later.
 
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319cssb

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So when i bypass the IP furl shut off solenoid straight to battery i get a nice distinct click. A little less on the connector.
But still a nice click. 11.xV on the connector. I cranked 4 times so far for about 7 secs each with full throttle with solenoid bypassed. No drip on the open injector connector.
 

cucvrus

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He would have had to turn it over a long time to fry the pump. I think it is just worn out. It happens. Weigh your options. New pump or just get it started with a known good used one. Myself I would get the injection pump rebuilt and start there. Even if you change the engine it would be good to have a fresh rebuilt injection pump. Just a suggestion. Good Luck.
 

319cssb

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Yes, I agree with you. I have been cranking for while and it hasn't changed in any kind of way, so I can comfortably assume that the injection pump is bad. Can you PM me and let me know how much your IP will cost?
 

Tinstar

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Have you bypassed the fuel pump and ran a hose from a fuel can direct to the IP?
That will tell you for sure if it’s the IP or a plugged line or air pocket.
Last I read you had fuel at filter bleed screw, but nothing going into the IP.
Obviously nothing coming out.
I had to apply some light air pressure to fuel tank to get fuel to filter.
Had debris blocking the line.

I would exhaust all possibilities before doing a major tear down to swap the IP.
 

319cssb

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Have you bypassed the fuel pump and ran a hose from a fuel can direct to the IP?
That will tell you for sure if it’s the IP or a plugged line or air pocket.
Last I read you had fuel at filter bleed screw, but nothing going into the IP.
Obviously nothing coming out.
I had to apply some light air pressure to fuel tank to get fuel to filter.
Had debris blocking the line.

I would exhaust all possibilities before doing a major tear down to swap the IP.
Fuel is coming out from the return line on top of the IP.
 

cucvrus

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That price is dependent on you sending the current pump to them. Contact them if you need other services. I used no fewer then 20+ pumps. Never had any issues. Do as you wish. Several of the CUCV's I built and sold have these pumps on. Someone always has negative to say even if General Motors rebuilt them. Not sure they do but just letting you know. I have great success. Good Luck.



[/COLOR]​
 

319cssb

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CUCVrus that is the company I found on eBay , too.
I'll send them my pump when I get around to taking it out.
 

319cssb

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I had to make sure again . I definitely am getting fuel past the fuel filter to the rubber hose that connects thr IP inlet.
after that fuel there is no more fuel.
 

cucvrus

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major tear down to swap the IP.

Swapping the injection pump is not a major tear down. It takes a few hours. It is as easy as a few bolts. Take the entire spider out and put it back in. I did it several times while people waited and watched me do it. They drove there in the morning at 8 and were back on the road no later then 12-1. depending what else they wanted me to do while I was in there. Rear coolant cover plate gaskets and the coolant crossover manifold gaskets were a popular option. Don't scare people into thinking this is a rocket ship. This is easy as 3 wires and a couple bolts. Good Luck. I will be here if you have any questions.
 

ken

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He is correct. I have swapped many of these over the last 20 years or so on different trucks. Even for someone who has not done it. A guy with moderate mechanical skill could do it in less than a day.

Swapping the injection pump is not a major tear down. It takes a few hours. It is as easy as a few bolts. Take the entire spider out and put it back in. I did it several times while people waited and watched me do it. They drove there in the morning at 8 and were back on the road no later then 12-1. depending what else they wanted me to do while I was in there. Rear coolant cover plate gaskets and the coolant crossover manifold gaskets were a popular option. Don't scare people into thinking this is a rocket ship. This is easy as 3 wires and a couple bolts. Good Luck. I will be here if you have any questions.[/QUOTE]
 

Matt5

Banned
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Location
NY
Unless you drop a bolt down into the timing cover... then it becomes more fun.

GL with DCP, many many bad reviews on them... sometimes you get what you pay for...

If you are getting no fuel... make sure that the fuel solenoid is working...
 

cucvrus

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Oh Boy!!! Here we go again. Yes don't do it in the pouring rain while the hood is off or while consuming large amounts of alcohol or drugs. Make sure not to leave any tools under the hood when completed. Torque all bolts to proper torque and check for loose and missing parts. The list goes on. Failure to do so can result in serious injury or death. I read a post on the internet that said all Chevy trucks were junk and there were over 123K likes. Must be true. Of course we all know not to drop bolts into timing covers and not to wash the engine down with a hose while the intake is removed. Get's it really clean but I advise against it. I think this is under control. Major Tom to ground control. Over and out.
 

ehuppert

Active member
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Washing/degreasing motors with a lot of water is BAD... Ask owners of mid 2000's gm V8's with the knock sensor under the intake how this works out for them.
 

Tinstar

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I wash the engine on my M1008A1 every month or so.
Engine is turned off and I stay away from alternators and air intake opening.
Simple.
No issues at all.
Doing it for over 3 years.
90FD08A6-AD23-4F74-9FCB-76AAAB0A763A.jpg


Same for every vehicle I own.
2006 GMC Sierra and 2008 Chevy Silverado included.
Have to wash my tractors when it warms up a bit here.
I hate a dirty engine.
 

319cssb

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Easley SC
When changing the Injection Pump, i am supposed to mark the case, which is kind of senseless, as I am installing a bee pump. So how do I line up the new IP properly?
 

Matt5

Banned
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Location
NY
Yep here we go again, it is not like somewhere on this site I am 99% sure it says you *can't* drop those bolts... yet you can... nope someone has to freak out because a bad thing was said about a place that was recommend.

OP... You use the timing mark on the case / block
 
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