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Just picked up a M54A1C fire truck.

dmetalmiki

dmetalmiki

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Be safe.
Take any two bulbs and check their voltages.
I does not start because you have no power to anything.
The additional master switches were for radios and emergency lights.
Emergency kit can be 24 volt or 12 volt.
Some of my kit runs from 'Half' the batteries (the first battery) and they are 12 volt kit.
Other of my trucks run the full 24 volt kit.
Your starter motor is 24 volt. (check it).
Negative battery terminal goes to chassis earth.
then that batteries POSITIVE terminal goes to the 2nd battery NEGATIVE.
The second battery POSITIVE is (your) 'POWER OUT'.
 
J

jjmartinez1982

New member
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Rio Grande City, TX
dmetalmiki said:
Be safe.
Take any two bulbs and check their voltages.
I does not start because you have no power to anything.
The additional master switches were for radios and emergency lights.
Emergency kit can be 24 volt or 12 volt.
Some of my kit runs from 'Half' the batteries (the first battery) and they are 12 volt kit.
Other of my trucks run the full 24 volt kit.
Your starter motor is 24 volt. (check it).
Negative battery terminal goes to chassis earth.
then that batteries POSITIVE terminal goes to the 2nd battery NEGATIVE.
The second battery POSITIVE is (your) 'POWER OUT'.
Click to expand...
Yeah I definitely will be careful.

As for the “power out”, am I correct in thinking one lead goes to the starter and another goes to the generator/alternator? Like I said, I THINK it pigtails under the dash into 2 leads.


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A

AZDeuce

Active member
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Tonopah, AZ
I'm pretty sure the positive goes to the starter and there may be a smaller wire that goes to the alternator (should be the same as a M35 A2 Deuce-an-a-half) the negative should be ground to the frame and to the engine block if I remember correctly. Hope this helps.
 
J

jjmartinez1982

New member
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1
1
Location
Rio Grande City, TX
AZDeuce said:
I'm pretty sure the positive goes to the starter and there may be a smaller wire that goes to the alternator (should be the same as a M35 A2 Deuce-an-a-half) the negative should be ground to the frame and to the engine block if I remember correctly. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Helps a ton!

So that smaller wire from the alternator goes all the way back to the battery? Makes sense. I was wondering where that went. It’s pretty long.

I’ve got positive going to the starter, and negative is grounded at the frame.

There’s one wire in the cab that goes out the firewall and loops around the top of the engine on the firewall then runs into the 28v regulator. It’s pretty long. I’m wondering if this also goes to the battery. They had it connected to one of those master disconnect switches.


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J

jjmartinez1982

New member
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Rio Grande City, TX
I’m seeing in (what I hope is the right one) diagram that a wire comes off the regulator and goes to the bus bar.

I can’t find anything else about this bus bar.

Also, is there supposed to be an empty connection on the bottom passenger side of the regulator?


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dmetalmiki

dmetalmiki

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For some reason I can not reply with the quote.
This reply is to your question after my post .
If you are unsure.
Connect the small wire with a jumper wire from that wire, with a 10-15 amp fuse in the It should be already attached on the starter solenoid.
You will only blow the fuse if something shorts out.

Connect the Large wire securely on the starter motor.

( It is very unlikely the wires to and under the dash are incorrect).
 
J

jjmartinez1982

New member
26
1
1
Location
Rio Grande City, TX
dmetalmiki said:
( It is very unlikely the wires to and under the dash are incorrect).
Click to expand...
Got it working! Starts with the push-button now. The wire from the voltage regulator was the ticket. Gave power to the dash. I’ve got one connection from that “spider” that I’m not sure where it goes. It might be to the original ammeter but this one has an aftermarket one. Also, oil pressure gauge isn’t working.

Oh well! At least it starts without a second vehicle haha


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