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No start after button replacement.

Floridianson

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We are going to remove the delivery valve so we can check /clean out it's bore. This is my fault as when we had the Head out and off the IP I should have stripped her all the way down and did a good clean out job. Trying to skip around can make more of a problem or thinking there was only one problem as in this case button was a for sure but the story keeps growing.
 

FloridaAKM

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The delivery valve behind the 12 point bolt is stuck in my hydraulic head. It will not come out with a magnet stuck up in the spring bore or with a pair of pliers placed into the spring bore hole. Tomorrow, I will spray some more carb cleaner into the bore to see if it will loosen the delivery valve. I even tried to force it out cranking the engine with the 12 point bolt & spring out, but it didn't move; just squirted out diesel fuel. There is a screwdriver(special tool) slot that should help to break free the delivery valve, but I have had no luck with it so far. Tomorrow is another day & maybe the valve can be convinced to come out without taking the HH head out of the truck again.
 

rustystud

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The delivery valve behind the 12 point bolt is stuck in my hydraulic head. It will not come out with a magnet stuck up in the spring bore or with a pair of pliers placed into the spring bore hole. Tomorrow, I will spray some more carb cleaner into the bore to see if it will loosen the delivery valve. I even tried to force it out cranking the engine with the 12 point bolt & spring out, but it didn't move; just squirted out diesel fuel. There is a screwdriver(special tool) slot that should help to break free the delivery valve, but I have had no luck with it so far. Tomorrow is another day & maybe the valve can be convinced to come out without taking the HH head out of the truck again.
I was thinking that could be your problem. Like I mentioned earlier, I had several pumps that had the valve totally stuck due to crappy gummy junk in there. One was actually rusted in place. On all the Hydraulic Heads I rebuilt, I put them in the sand-blast cabinet and using ground up walnut shells cleaned out all the passages. This technique has worked really well for me.

Oh, by the way. Make sure you really clean that twelve point bolts mounting surface and the bore it goes into. It can leak if just a tiny bit of crud is on it. Like I mentioned, I blasted all mine to totally clean them up. No problems leaking.
 
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Floridianson

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Allen will post soon about his running truck. He just call me and I think he had a Woodie buy the sound of his voice. Very excited and high pitched voice. Think that comes from fuel leaving one head running to other head.
 
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FloridaAKM

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:funny: After working on it since October 2017 with no luck other than replacing the batteries & cables & getting her to spin over well, today was different. I got a clean bill bill of health from the Cardiologist I see, to come home early & pull the delivery valve bolt & spring. Carb cleaner was sprayed into the bore & let it sit. Then taking a screwdriver that fit the slots in the valve, I wiggled it back & forth, but it is machined too tight to wiggle or even move. A cheap pair of spring loaded needle nose pliers fit into the spring bore & by holding the pliers open & pulling outward, there was this sucking sound of diesel being pulled past the valve & the valve came out [thumbzup]. Except for a small amount of that brown looking deposit you get from military biodiesel, it was clean. After scrubbing up the valve & bore with carb cleaner, not much except for color came off. Reassembling the delivery valve with grease on it to hold the spring in place, it started a downpour of heavy rain from nowhere. Figures! After the rain stopped, I got the board ready for a runaway engine just in case @ the intake.

Back in the drivers seat, I figured just more spinning the engine which it did for 4 or 5 seconds & the starter stopped because it does that. Tried one more time & it started popping & blowing smoke out of the stack, which it has never done; so I let it spin a few more seconds & it started to much to my surprise. This truck has not run for some time, so the blowby was above normal, but it RAN & idled. The generator is fine, the air compressor is running as designed, the brakes are faint as expected, it moves under it own power. It needs much more PM work, but it is now not a parts truck as it runs.

Now it the time for a big shout out for Floridianson for spending his time to help me get this thing running from a deadlined DRMO truck & to Gimpyrob for donating the HH small parts to replace the broken spring, smashed button & the retainer thingy. Thank you two very much as I could not have done it without you. These guys & all the rest of the members of Steel Soldiers are why the forum is great, they help others get the impossible done as a hobby & have a good time doing it.
 

Floridianson

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Just remember since we bypassed the FDC the fuel will be turned up. When I get a chance I will come by and we can see / adjust the fuel down some if it is too much.
 

FloridaAKM

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Gainesville, Florida
I will install the pyro & boost gauges that were bought for the other truck since it doesn't have the FDC bypassed or the fuel turned up. No need to turn down the fuel now, the '85's clutch seems to be better & the transmission shifts more positively, so it might be closer to a regular driver that is fun to drive & the '87 goes to the shows. Time will tell!
 
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