Mep002a?

Mep002a trouble shooting

My mep002a has been running without many issues at 1993hrs. Today I crank her up. Switch fuel on, sounds like a fuel pump might have took a dive. Not making the normal ticking noise, more of a zinging. Try and crank her. Everything as normal until I release the start. She cuts off right away.

By cutting the power to the fuel pumps figure out it's the auxiliary fuel pump. Does anyone know if this would cause the generator to shutdown?

A side note, my Hertz gauge has started to fail the last few times I have ran the generator. Any suggestions on a replacement?

Define "Fail".

No, the Aux pump will not make the set stop. UNLESS, the pump somehow had a direct shot to ground. Maybe. Disconnect the pump, and see what happens. Unless you are using AUX fuel source, its no big deal.

Take a wire with two roach clips on it, and jump from TB5-8 to TB5-9. Start the set. Will it stay running? If so, you have an engine safty thats causing the gen set to shut down.

Don't have roach clips any other suggestions on connecting 8 to 9?

I've disconnected the power to the pump.

Going to look for a little wire I can make a jumper.

Guyfang, you are right it's the engine safety shutting it down. THANKS!

Now to try and track down this problem.

Also, when you attempt to restart it make a note of what the oil pressure reading is before you release the start switch. Don't be afraid to let it run awhile (15 - 30 sec) before you let go of start, the starter is safely locked out once it reaches a certain RPM.

holley68 said:

Guyfang, you are right it's the engine safety shutting it down. THANKS!

Now to try and track down this problem.

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Good progress! Most likely going to be due to either low oil pressure (bad sender, obstruction or less likely...oil pump) or the high temp probe or wiring issue to either. You can jumper each one of those safety devices independently to determine which one is at fault. Easy to jump the oil pressure sender. The high temp probe requires removing the shutters if I recall.

Looked to be around at start 30psi, running around 50 now. Checked oil after it ran a few seconds a little above the check mark.

Hertz gauge not moving above 55, going to have to find a replacement soon. Don't like running it without one.

Really handy to buy a Kill-A-Watt meter ($29 @ Home Depot) and plug into the convenience outlet via extension cord to set initial hZ to 61.5. Then handy to use inside the house to randomly monitor typical loading hZ droop.

That way you can take your time to find a replacement panel guage with a built in transducer. 99% of bad hZ gauge is the often failing/failed transducer inside the control box.

One way to check the temp switch, without taking apart the shroud is to go from TB5-9, to the oil pressure switch, S5, and hook your jumper to the S5, where wire number P65A16 is. Look at the wire schematic. This is not rocket science. If you jump S4 that way, also make sure that the wire harness is not damaged, or that J2 and J13 are hooked up correctly and tight.

holley68 said:

Looked to be around at start 30psi, running around 50 now. Checked oil after it ran a few seconds a little above the check mark.

Hertz gauge not moving above 55, going to have to find a replacement soon. Don't like running it without one.

Click to expand...

Have you tested the connections on A3 frequency transducer? Made sure the wires are not broken, or the connectors are not cracked?

I have both a 003 and 002. The 003 has always required me to hold the switch in crank about 15” after the oil pressure comes up or it will shut down. The 002 can be released as soon as the oil pressure comes up.

Robert

If your machine sits outside, open up the air shutters and look inside at the wires on the temp switch, I've seen several with mouse nests in there and chewed wires. If a wire is broken it will shut down when you release the start switch. You can get your hand in there to work, but its a little difficult with teh shutter in place.

If your Hz gage isn't reading, the biggest culprit is usually the frequency transducer, which can be expensive to replace. An alternative is a direct read Hz gage that doesn't need a transducer. There are several cheap analog drop in replacements available on ebay. I just purchased a couple from a place in China that were only $12. As soon as they arrive I will test them and report back. I'm not expecting much for $12 but figured I would try it. ( I've only got 2 spare transducers left and about 6 more gens to fix up ) I've also used the digital Hz / Volt meters as replacements too, most require you to make an adapter plate to mount them.

Guys, thanks for all the help. The culprit was the temp switch behind the shutter. I was thinking this was not the issue since the shutter opens properly, but I believe it was working loose. Cleaned it up and she keeps running now.

I checked the transducer connections. Everything looks good. I do have a parts 002 I might see if the transducer will work on this set.

I have looked for the plug in meter locally to no avail. Lowes, WalMart, True Value, and Tractor Supply were no goes. I will be ordering one only today.