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Thread: MEP-003a No voltage

  1. #101
    General juddspaintballs's Avatar
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    I will re-test the CVT1 and CT1 at some point. Right now I'm in a crunch to finish the popup camper I'm restoring before I take it camping Friday. I also need to replace the exhaust manifolds on my F150 and the entire exhaust system back from there before then.

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    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    I have once again slogged through this whole thread. Like Ray, I agree that it cant be diodes. It puts out voltage with terminal #17 disconnected on the A1. You have replaced/tested all components in the control cube, (CC). So its got to be in the AC output box. OTHER then a wire that goes from the CC to the output box. Like for instance, the wires to the Transformers, T2 and T3. But that's the only thing I might even think of, and its a way long shot. Simple to test.

    But it still feels like its got to be in the output box. You need to pull it off the set, take it apart, and test everything in that circuit.

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  4. #103
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    I will do that.

  5. #104
    3 Star General bchauvette's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by juddspaintballs View Post
    Starter interrupter switch is now working properly. When engine speed comes up, the push rod moves the interrupter switch so the starter doesn't engage while holding the start switch. No voltage at the output lugs, no voltage or frequency on the gauges, no voltage at the convenience outlet.


    Is my next test to follow procedure 8-2 in the -34 manual? "Disconnect the voltage regulator at the exciter wires (wires P67C16 at TB3-5 and P60E16 at TB3-6). Connect a 12 volt battery in place of the regulator with the (+) terminal to TB3-6 and (-) terminal to TB3-5. Run the engine with the battery in place of the voltage regulator. If there is output now, the voltage regulator is bad. If there is no output, the main alternator is bad."
    FYI



    tb3 is under the regulator rectifier you have to remove the blower housing (if I'm wrong please let me know).good luck with the correct wire to un- hook or the locatio on the tb my gen set is not marked. I have no Idea which wire to un hook.
    Butch

    You don't bring a knife to a gun fight.
    You don't bring a knife to a knife fight.
    You bring a gun to a knife fight.
    (Butchism #75)


    M944A1
    r
    MEP 003
    KK4UKN Technician class

  6. #105
    General juddspaintballs's Avatar
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    TB3 is in the AC output box on the right hand side towards the front of the box.

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    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    You are going to make a fine generator mechanic!

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  10. #107
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    OK, back to this, finally. I took the AC output box off of the unit. I've gone back through this thread and I'm about to go outside and test everything you guys have asked me to test so far in this thread. CVT1, CT1, Linear Reactor, A4, T1, T2, etc. etc. etc. Anything I've been asked to check so far in this thread, I'm checking again today. I see no reason to do the battery test again, though. I'll let you know the readings I come up with.

  11. #108
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    With the AC Output Box on my work bench, I took readings. I didn't do anything in the AC Control Box today, but here are the results from the AC Output Box:

    Linear Reactor (NEW)
    Specification is 13.5 ohms +/- 1.35 ohms
    Terminals 1/2 - 13.8 ohms GOOD
    Terminals 3/4 - 13.8 ohms GOOD
    Terminals 5/6 - 13.8 ohms GOOD


    CVT1
    Specification is 2.27 ohms +/- .227 ohms on the primary windings
    Terminals H1/H2 - 2.5 ohms, then .67M ohms, then open! BAD
    Terminals H3/H4 - 2.4 ohms GOOD
    Terminals H5/H6 - 2.4 ohms GOOD

    Specification is 1.68 ohms +/- .168 ohms on the secondary windings
    Terminals X1/X2 - 1.9 ohms BAD (technically)
    Terminals X1/X3 - 1.9 ohms BAD (technically)
    Terminals X2/X3 - 1.9 ohms BAD (technically)

    Specification is 9.6 ohms +/- .96 ohms on the control windings
    Terminals C1/C2 - 10.3 ohms GOOD


    CT1
    Specification is 0.5 ohms +/- 0.05 ohms
    Terminals 1A/2A - 0.5 ohms GOOD
    Terminals 1B/2B - 0.5 ohms GOOD
    Terminals 1C/2C - 0.5 ohms GOOD


    A4 Board
    Specification is low resistance one way, high resistance the other way
    CR1 GOOD
    CR2 GOOD
    CR3 GOOD
    CR4 GOOD
    CR5 GOOD
    CR6 GOOD

    Specification is 56 ohms for R1
    R1 is 55.2 ohms GOOD




    So, it sure looks like my CVT1 is bad. The initial reading on terminals H1/H2 was probably quick and in specification, so I moved on. The fact that it climbed and then read open leads me to believe that CVT1 is bad. I went back after several minutes and read H1/H2 again and had over 2M Ohms. I'm not fully convinced the secondary windings are actually bad considering they all read identically and they are .052 ohms out of specification, but it doesn't matter if the primary windings are bad.
    Last edited by juddspaintballs; 05-30-2019 at 15:55.

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  13. #109
    4 Star General Triple Jim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by juddspaintballs View Post
    Specification is 1.68 ohms +/- .168 ohms on the secondary windings
    Terminals X1/X2 - 1.9 ohms BAD (technically)
    Terminals X1/X3 - 1.9 ohms BAD (technically)
    Terminals X2/X3 - 1.9 ohms BAD (technically)
    It's academic at this point, but did you subtract the reading of the meter leads from the reading you got on the windings? That is, short the probes together, wait a few seconds, and get that reading, then subtract that from winding readings.

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  15. #110
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    Good point. 0.1 ohms on my leads, which puts the secondary windings in specification. But, now that means CT1 is out of specification...

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