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Thread: leaky cylinders

  1. #11
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    I got the seals replaced in the two boom cylinders and replaced the rod and seals on the bucket cylinder. It was not such a bad job, the hardest part was just wrangling the cylinders around by myself. They are pretty heavy and breaking the piston bolts loose took some doing. 600 ft-lbs spec and red Locktite. A 8' breaker bar did the trick, but it took all I had.

    You need a 1 1//2" socket for the boom rod and 1 7/8" socket for the bucket cylinder. The seals in the boom cylinder that was leaking were completely trashed. The gland nut on that side was badly rusted. I used electrolysis to remove the rust from the gland nut. It was my first attempt at the technique and it worked pretty well.

    I originally did not intend to replace the seals in the left boom cylinder but was convinced that since they share pressure one side being weaker than the other was a recipe for trouble. I am not sure if that was why the right boom cylinder started leaking, but the seals on the left side that were a lot newer (probably from the 2005 rebuild).

    The seal kit I bought contained an extra seal. so don't sweat that.

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  3. #12
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    what is the best way to drain all the hydraulic oil for the backhoe? I've got the pistons pulled out of both swing cylinders so I'm assuming a large percentage of the oil is already drained but is there something else i can do to flush the system? my oil looked like chocolate milk so i think it had a lot of water in it.

    I don't have any sockets or wrenches to fit the piston bolts, i think its 1.75 inch or 45 mm, so i'm going in to the local hydraulic shop to have them disassemble and i'll probably just let them put all the new seals in as well.

  4. #13
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
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    I'd pull the drain plug on the tank.

  5. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    I'd pull the drain plug on the tank.
    i did that and made a huge mess due to the drain location being directly over the fuel tank

    I was wondering more if there is a flush process to get all the fluid out of the cylinders as well or do you just have to disconnect lines at each cylinder to drain them all? I went ahead and drained what I could and then filled up with new fluid, i figured i'd watch what the fluid looks like and decide if it needs drained again in the near future.

  6. #15
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    After the first time I drained the rear tank, I saw the value of those "over priced" malleable plastic funnels.

    Anyway, I'd put the cheapest possible fluid in there, run everything for a bit, then drain it out (cylinders retracted) and refill with a good AW-32.

  7. #16
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    is it true that even when running cheap stuff through, i should be sure to only use an AW type of fluid? I'm running CAM2 AW32 right now.

    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    After the first time I drained the rear tank, I saw the value of those "over priced" malleable plastic funnels.

    Anyway, I'd put the cheapest possible fluid in there, run everything for a bit, then drain it out (cylinders retracted) and refill with a good AW-32.

  8. #17
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    Not sure if it really matters. There must be some 10W left in my SEEs, and they still work.
    But since you're already running AW-32, I'd use that for the flush, too.

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