Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22

Thread: leaky cylinders

  1. #11
    Sergeant Major
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Littleton, Colorado
    Posts
    176
    Thanks
    112
    Thanked 55 Times in 39 Posts

    Default

    I got the seals replaced in the two boom cylinders and replaced the rod and seals on the bucket cylinder. It was not such a bad job, the hardest part was just wrangling the cylinders around by myself. They are pretty heavy and breaking the piston bolts loose took some doing. 600 ft-lbs spec and red Locktite. A 8' breaker bar did the trick, but it took all I had.

    You need a 1 1//2" socket for the boom rod and 1 7/8" socket for the bucket cylinder. The seals in the boom cylinder that was leaking were completely trashed. The gland nut on that side was badly rusted. I used electrolysis to remove the rust from the gland nut. It was my first attempt at the technique and it worked pretty well.

    I originally did not intend to replace the seals in the left boom cylinder but was convinced that since they share pressure one side being weaker than the other was a recipe for trouble. I am not sure if that was why the right boom cylinder started leaking, but the seals on the left side that were a lot newer (probably from the 2005 rebuild).

    The seal kit I bought contained an extra seal. so don't sweat that.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to rtrask For This Useful Post:

    Pinsandpitons (04-08-2019)

  3. #12
    Corporal
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    45
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 9 Times in 6 Posts

    Default

    what is the best way to drain all the hydraulic oil for the backhoe? I've got the pistons pulled out of both swing cylinders so I'm assuming a large percentage of the oil is already drained but is there something else i can do to flush the system? my oil looked like chocolate milk so i think it had a lot of water in it.

    I don't have any sockets or wrenches to fit the piston bolts, i think its 1.75 inch or 45 mm, so i'm going in to the local hydraulic shop to have them disassemble and i'll probably just let them put all the new seals in as well.

  4. #13
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    The actual midwest, NM.
    Posts
    2,569
    Thanks
    1,195
    Thanked 1,275 Times in 848 Posts

    Default

    I'd pull the drain plug on the tank.

  5. #14
    Corporal
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    45
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 9 Times in 6 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    I'd pull the drain plug on the tank.
    i did that and made a huge mess due to the drain location being directly over the fuel tank

    I was wondering more if there is a flush process to get all the fluid out of the cylinders as well or do you just have to disconnect lines at each cylinder to drain them all? I went ahead and drained what I could and then filled up with new fluid, i figured i'd watch what the fluid looks like and decide if it needs drained again in the near future.

  6. #15
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    The actual midwest, NM.
    Posts
    2,569
    Thanks
    1,195
    Thanked 1,275 Times in 848 Posts

    Default

    After the first time I drained the rear tank, I saw the value of those "over priced" malleable plastic funnels.

    Anyway, I'd put the cheapest possible fluid in there, run everything for a bit, then drain it out (cylinders retracted) and refill with a good AW-32.

  7. #16
    Corporal
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    45
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 9 Times in 6 Posts

    Default

    is it true that even when running cheap stuff through, i should be sure to only use an AW type of fluid? I'm running CAM2 AW32 right now.

    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    After the first time I drained the rear tank, I saw the value of those "over priced" malleable plastic funnels.

    Anyway, I'd put the cheapest possible fluid in there, run everything for a bit, then drain it out (cylinders retracted) and refill with a good AW-32.

  8. #17
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    The actual midwest, NM.
    Posts
    2,569
    Thanks
    1,195
    Thanked 1,275 Times in 848 Posts

    Default

    Not sure if it really matters. There must be some 10W left in my SEEs, and they still work.
    But since you're already running AW-32, I'd use that for the flush, too.

  9. #18
    Private
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    15
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default

    I'm trying to remove the cylinders from the stabilizers. I have the snap rings, and hydraulic lines removed, but the pins holding the lower end to the stabilizer pad will not budge.
    I've tried several applications of PB Blaster over the past few days, and still no luck. Am I missing something here, or do I just need to hit it harder?

    Thanks,

    Jim

  10. #19
    4 Star General porkysplace's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    mid- michigan
    Posts
    9,022
    Thanks
    6,096
    Thanked 4,740 Times in 2,725 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jamesm417 View Post
    I'm trying to remove the cylinders from the stabilizers. I have the snap rings, and hydraulic lines removed, but the pins holding the lower end to the stabilizer pad will not budge.
    I've tried several applications of PB Blaster over the past few days, and still no luck. Am I missing something here, or do I just need to hit it harder?

    Thanks,

    Jim
    The stabilzer pins are a problem on the Case 580's also , no grease fittings , the pins rust to the cylinder . You can try heating and letting cool , but often you end up cutting the pins and getting new ones and in some cases you end up replacing the entire cylinder and pins . Good luck welcome years of sitting with no grease.

    PB Blaster is just watered down kersene , try some Kroil .

  11. #20
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    The actual midwest, NM.
    Posts
    2,569
    Thanks
    1,195
    Thanked 1,275 Times in 848 Posts

    Default

    Somewhere in the main thread is the story about my reluctant bucket pin, and how I finally got it out.
    That included using 50/50 ATF and acetone, which puts all other penetrating oils to shame.

    Hitting pins harder can really backfire, as they tend to mushroom.

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to The FLU farm For This Useful Post:

    porkysplace (07-22-2019)

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •