Precautions for Possibly Submerged Deuce!

After searching for a Deuce to be a potential Water Rescue Vehicle (ME!) I found one the day I had to drive it home thru 4 feet of water.
I drove it out the next day and then back in. I think I took on a bit of water in the fuel because it was missing and I lost 10 mph on the highway.
I added a fuel additive that seemed to dry it out, so as of now, no Issues.

I am researching "Fording Kits" as this post Army vehicle is not equipped for what I have already put it thru on day one.
I understand venting the pumpkins/transaxels and adding the snorkel but still searching what else I need to do.

As of right now it is sitting on concrete blocks but still in standing water up to the rims.
Water is projected at this point to hit the wheel hubs.

The Cresting forecast changes daily, but I am hoping for the best and it will stop at the hubs.
I realize at this point I already may have taken on water in the pumpkins (all though gears were cool for the 50 yard ford).
So as a result, when I see dry earth, I plan on changing all pumpkin/transaxel fluids and repacking all of the wheel bearings.
Hope to add the fording kit at the same time if I can find one.

My question here is,,,,,, What am I missing.
With water raising to an unknown height, what would you do to protect it?
I am sitting here on the second floor looking at it next to a garage full of tools and want to do what I can.

This ride on the Mississippi looks like it could be a long one this time!
Thanks for your help and discussion! (thinking I should have gotten a boat at this point!)

Id just drain the filter housings and carry on. If you decide youd rather replace the filters, I have usgi secondary filters with the correct gaskets for $5 each plus shipping, pm me.

run a line (1inch id ?) from the compressor intake to the hose barb fitting on the air filter housing. its near the fire wall, so its hard to see. Use a heavy wall product to prevent it from collapsing. Put the plug in the bell housing. It should be in a "false hole right next to it....just move it over. Make sure your brake master cylinder vent isn't just dangling around there, I think it goes into the engine compartment fire wall.

All that is nice but the batteries will be useless after submersion.

How did you get the truck up on concrete blocks?

frank8003 said:

All that is nice but the batteries will be useless after submersion.
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that would depend on a lot of things. I have had batteries submerged for a half hour and still be able to charge up. overnight, not so much. I used to work at a marina...lots of sinking boats.

Like post 3 says, locate and install fording plug. Make sure all vents (master cylinder, crank case, trans etc) are hooked up. Hope your CV boots are good. If the water is going to eb higher than the bumper think about making a snorkel for the air cleaner out of flexible tubing. Lubricate the truck thoroughly.

russojap said:

How did you get the truck up on concrete blocks?

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I had 6" landscape blocks then jumped to 8" concrete blocks. Staged in front of each tire.
Since I already had over a foot of muddy water to deal with I just felt them out and gave it a go.
It took three attempts to get it situated.
I hope to remember to take a pic when the water recedes to see what it is actually sitting on!
Thanks for asking, it was a task!

gimpyrobb said:

Id just drain the filter housings and carry on. If you decide youd rather replace the filters, I have usgi secondary filters with the correct gaskets for $5 each plus shipping, pm me.

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By filter housings are you referring to the two oil filters and two fuel filters (primary and secondary)?
I have owned this MV for a week now, so just getting familiar.
Thanks,

davidb56 said:

run a line (1inch id ?) from the compressor intake to the hose barb fitting on the air filter housing. its near the fire wall, so its hard to see. Use a heavy wall product to prevent it from collapsing. Put the plug in the bell housing. It should be in a "false hole right next to it....just move it over. Make sure your brake master cylinder vent isn't just dangling around there, I think it goes into the engine compartment fire wall.

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Great info! Not sure what all that means yet, but good direction, I will run down your suggestions, thanks!

frank8003 said:

All that is nice but the batteries will be useless after submersion.
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Didn't even think about the batteries! Anxious to review the documents, perfect! Thanks!

frank8003 said:

All that is nice but the batteries will be useless after submersion.
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I am able to view image 1,2 and the last one but 3 will not click open for me. I am not familiar with the TM's yet, Is this where you got this info as this is just the type of info I need in my future with the direction I am going. Also, that is an interesting article you posted from MV magazine. I would like to read the rest of it and part 2. Available?

davidb56 said:

that would depend on a lot of things. I have had batteries submerged for a half hour and still be able to charge up. overnight, not so much. I used to work at a marina...lots of sinking boats.

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I agree with David here. I've had batteries submerged for short periods of time also with no ill effects. The military doesn't even mention it in the TM's since most submerging's only last minutes, like when crossing rivers. They never intended the deuce to be a submarine !

rustystud said:

I agree with David here. I've had batteries submerged for short periods of time also with no ill effects. The military doesn't even mention it in the TM's since most submerging's only last minutes, like when crossing rivers. They never intended the deuce to be a submarine !

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Hopefully my deuce doesn't turn into a submarine,,, glad I asked the question. If I see the water approaching the top of the bats I will take them out till this flooding event has past,,,,,,,

here is both parts

As said crank case by way of the road draft tube / loose oil fill cap would be my main worry if it got as high as the air filter or above. If the work order has not been done the fuel tank and master cylinder are hook to it. If it has been done then just the fuel tank vent is connected. Also some fuel tank fill caps have a vent that can be opened or closed as long as the cap is tight fitting. The caps that vent you can see when looking on the under side of the cap and there is a little metal bar that you turn to open or close off the cap. Salt water will short batteries but don't think you have that problem.

After Hurricane Harvey, I spent 6 hours going in and out of water up to 4 feet deep. My truck sat for a few days after that, and then it wouldn’t start. I gave the starter a couple of good hits with a hammer, and my truck fired up without issue. That was the only problem I had. My truck has started and run fine ever since, and I’m still using the same batteries.

Shortly after going in the water, I changed all fluids, repacked wheel bearings and greased everything. I also replaced my front axle boots. I didn’t realize it before going into the water, but one boot had a tear.

Yea if the knuckle is not packed with grease you can just take out one of the bottom bolts that holds on the knuckle cap bushing and check / drain water.