Inside Hard top opinions

I have my hard top off for this phase of my never ending resurrection of this M109 that was a very poor purchase...I am looking for an easy button in the refit of the interior of my hard top. I already have the insulation out and I will say that whoever had the job of painting on the glue to hold in the insulation took his job very seriously. I thought about painting the inside with flex seal but that may not be the best idea, have thought about putting insulation back in it but we just don't need it down here. Any ideas would be great!!!

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Well, the insulation tends to cut down on the rattles, squeaks and heat in my Deuce quite a bit, so mine is getting replaced with old sleeping mats and 3M Pro series spray glue. YMMV.

Ive used a product called armaflex before with good results. Its a rubber insulation that glues on. I used 3/4 thick material for my project and would do it again, but its not cheap. Also there is a thing called heat soak, you cant insulate against ambient temps.

I also went with the sleeping mat for insulation but I brushed mine on the Weldwood contact cement.

Bill W said:

I also went with the sleeping mat for insulation but I brushed mine on the Weldwood contact cement.

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It looks brand new.

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Nicely done, Bill W. I am doing the lower part of the cab to hopefully help with the afore mentioned issues as well. Did the dome light come with a mount bracket or that something that you fab'ed up?

77 AMG said:

Nicely done, Bill W. I am doing the lower part of the cab to hopefully help with the afore mentioned issues as well. Did the dome light come with a mount bracket or that something that you fab'ed up?

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I fabbed it up with a couple pieces of 1"angle I tack welded to the cab and four 1/4" coupler nuts for spacing.

Bill W said:

I fabbed it up with a couple pieces of 1"angle I tack welded to the cab and four 1/4" coupler nuts for spacing.

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Bill W said:

I also went with the sleeping mat for insulation but I brushed mine on the Weldwood contact cement.

Click to expand...

Oh yes this is what I have been looking for! Thank you.

I used a dynamat clone from amazon called noico, I put a layer on the bottom of the trans tunnel, on the inside of the firewall, and inside the hardtop/back, then 1/2” foam insulation in the hardtop and a layer of charcoal grey trunk liner. This got the db’s From 109 (with soft top) at highway speed to the low 80’s , and I haven’t done the back of the cab or the doors yet.

*That's* a pretty good improvement on the DBs. Going to have to look into this as a possibility. Thanks for sharing it, texas30cal.

Now im not using a high dollar meter, it’s a iPhone app, but it should still be a good comparison. Something else I did was to make insulated floor mats, I got black diamond plate rubber on a roll from amazon and surplus HET cab insulation kits from fuzzytoaster. Made cardboard patterns, cut insulation to match, stuck the rubber to the self adhesive insulation and trimmed the edges. This was the last thing I did to get the dbs as low as they are now.

Well. Other than adding a muffler, I just have the "original" style mess. How much weight do you think that you have added, and, I guess that we all have to wait for this, but, what about heat soak come summer..... I am originally from South of San Antonio, and I remember those "asphalt-so-hot-that-your shoe-came off" days.

The sound deadener doesn’t do a lot for heat soak, but the foam and trunk liner headliner helped, that, the floor mats and jatonkas canvas shifter boots are all the insulation I have and the ac keeps up great even on the hottest days. Not much weight, about half the box of noico, a few lbs of foam/trunk liner and if I had to guess I’d say my mats are prod 20-30 lbs.....ish. I’ll get some pics of the mats and headliner tomorrow.

Yes
the ( jatonka ) shifter boots are a must for keeping heat out of the cab