Bobbed deuce vibration

Ok guys After I put my new a3 wheels on and ever since I've had a bad vibration at 2200+ rpm at 60mph when my tires were on stock deuce wheels I never had the vibration and could cruise at 63mph comfortably. I feel the vibration in the whole truck it feels like it's gonna shake apart but only at top end speed do you feel it. I read some threads on what it could be but figured I'd better get some advice. I have NATO NDT 14.00 20 tires.

Check your u joints for play first. Then the input/output yokes on the axles Then engine mounts. And transmission mounts. Does it get worse or better with a slight bit of throttle? If it is worse with only a slight bit of throttle but better with more throttle then you will be looking for a u joint or driveline bearing. Every deuce and multi fuel 5 ton I was in I couldn't tell if the whole truck was rattling from the engine shaking every mount


Also you may pull your front drive flanges and see if something internal up there could be causing it

I checked the u joints and Jack shaft also checked front end it feels like a side to side shimmy only started after I put the new rims on not sure if it's a tire not seated or what It only happens at high speed. It was sthere as soon as the tires and new wheels were installed.

"It was sthere as soon as the tires and new wheels were installed."
So you have answered the question
Change them out one at a time with the matched set spare, you'll find it

Ya I don't have a spare that size Lol Simp does I was planning on getting it I have a 5 rim just not the tire.

Can you drive through it and see if it smooth's back out? My truck used to have a bad hop at 46-48 mph (923 on 14's) and I simply drove through it for a while. I finally got tired of it and lowered the air pressure to about 20 psi all around and drove with some noticeable sidewall sag at 15 mph for about 10 miles. After airing back up to normal pressures they ride smooth as silk.

That I will have to try hope that will cure it

I suspect you did not balance your tire/wheels, or?

Egg shaped GY AT-2 had that symptom on my M929A2. Went to the Michelin XZL 395. You are talking bias ply NDT, correct?

It's a radial can run tubed or tubeless don't think any shop here can balance a tire that big.

Why go to a shop if you can do it yourself!?

If you don't want to go as far as building your own "balancing stand" (explained here...) then at least check your tires one-by-one, mounted on your front hub. That, after removing the splined center flange and fully retracting the brake shoes, of course. Make sure that the hub & drum assembly rotates completely free and that it isn't out of balance, in itself.

Pretty sure you will find out what is causing your vibration, that way.

Here is a good thread to look at;


www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?99022-Driveability-of-395-s-vs-NDT-s

Are you sure these are a radial tire? Some that I looked at in that size were bias. If bias, they would have a "warm up" of probably 15 miles before they give up the last flat spot from setting.

Is the CTIS counter weight still installed on the wheel, other CTIS hardware still installed??

No ctis on it only regular valve stems. They are 18 ply. I'll be getting new tires by next year. I'm gonna try to air them down and see if that helps with the vibration my truck may be too light gonna try 35 or 40 psi after I try to go to 20psi and try to see if that helps.

Well found the wobble adjusted steering box screw and tighted drag link ends. I had the speedo almost buried vibration is gone. I did some reading on here went through a few threads and decided to start there. That fixed it Thanks everyone for the input.