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NHC250 blows?
- Thread starter 319cssb
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Ah! That's a great help, thanks.
It actually says it on the label. Low silicate. and wet liner cavitation prevention
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On the topic of coolant, does it have life span in the vehicle? I have no idea how old mine is (as old as the trucks last military service possibly) but if I drain it and strain it and if it tests out to provide enough freezing protection can it just be reused? Does it break down over time and become acidic or corrosive?
I think the PH test strips help you to determine that.
Scrounger
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Coolant does wear out. Fresh coolant has an additive package that protects the cooling system from corrosion and provides lubrication for the water pump bearing. Over time the additives get used up.
One way to tell is by using PH strips.
The old standby method was to check the freeze point with a Duo-Check and then check the PH with test strips.
Commercial over the road trucks frequently have coolant filters, and replacement filters come with an additive package in them.
While one could install a coolant filter and add an additive package, for most of the owners of these vehicles that is not necessary. A yearly check with a Duo-Check and checking the PH will more than suffice.
One way to tell is by using PH strips.
The old standby method was to check the freeze point with a Duo-Check and then check the PH with test strips.
Commercial over the road trucks frequently have coolant filters, and replacement filters come with an additive package in them.
While one could install a coolant filter and add an additive package, for most of the owners of these vehicles that is not necessary. A yearly check with a Duo-Check and checking the PH will more than suffice.
Iceman3005
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You could use waterless coolant! Then you avoid having to mess with ph, and cavitation all together.
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Do you mean like Evans waterless coolant? Doesnt it cost like $45/gallon?
Iceman3005
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Yes Evans waterless. Put it in my 5 ton.
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How much did that cost you?
Iceman3005
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About 600 with shipping.
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Does the possible benefit warrant the premium in price?
Iceman3005
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I thought so. No need to mess with ph, no cavitation, and it has a lifetime warranty, never needs changing, won't cause corrosion or rust inside engine, no pressure when its hot, it doesn't expand. So there isn't any pressure on any thing! I can open reservoir when engine is at operating temp.
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I have to admit. It does sound appealing.
How about engine temperature? Is there a difference in coolant temperature?
And what is covered under the lifetime warranty? engine failure due to coolant? or just the coolant itself?
I think I'll give it a try on my CUCV
How about engine temperature? Is there a difference in coolant temperature?
And what is covered under the lifetime warranty? engine failure due to coolant? or just the coolant itself?
I think I'll give it a try on my CUCV
Iceman3005
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Engine and the coolant are covered As far as temp, it runs about 10 degrees cooler, was running 180-190 and now it runs about 170-175. I replaced the radiator, thermostat, and added a heater core.
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My water manifold has the black sludge that others have experienced so I'm going to do a flush/ clean with fresh coolant. However, when my heater fitting sprung a leak it left rust streaks all over my truck. I'm trying to remember what rust indicates- cavitation or electrolysis? If I get my coolant mixture back where it should be will the rust issue go away?
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TacMac2012
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Just to confirm: we should be AVOIDING the low silicate, wet liner formulas?
I'm about to start by coolant system flush and I was eye-balling this stuff:
@simp5782
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