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S-788 trailer & camper build

tobyS

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I'm putting together a camper using a Geithner S-788 box and Dexter axle. For now I have no brakes but I will add hyd disk and a surge actuator later. Box weighs about 600 but steel frame is heavy. Truck brakes have to do for now.

I have an electric enclosure 2x2x6 for front storage and want to make fold up tent on top. Bought steel for frame and have U bolts and suspension hardware ordered.
 

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tobyS

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They are a step of some kind that I got with a lot of PTOs back in the GL days. Four are being modified for hand rails up top (black one) and 4 for steps going up the back. The tan long one is how they came.
 

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tobyS

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I bought more steel for the frame and the hardware to mount the axle and a hitch. Mostly built the frame now to get it on wheels and attaching to the PU or deuce.

Yesterday the new axle perch's, 9/16" U-bolts, spring mounts, shackles, adjustable hitch mount and hitch, came. I had welded the frame up to fit the calculated spring width and the 788 box and an electrical enclosure to use as storage on the front.

Between the rains, I put the axle under the trailer frame and have it spotted and clamped in place. It needs 2 more cross-members, paint and then will have the box set in the frame.

There will be a 36" back porch built that counters some of the heavy tongue and also structure for expansion and sleeping on top of the box, like a canvas tent that covers everything when folded up. Left folded down, sleeping is in the box.

Will post pics when frame is together, ready to mount box.

I cut a 7,000# axle to width and when re-welding, put 1/2" of camber up on the axle (in the middle between old spring perches). The tires I'm using are very wide tread which seems to exaggerate the camber and will surely wear on the outside. Most camber on trailer axles is meant to make the tire track flat under a full load. My axle will never see close to it's capacity to cause it to flex flat. Should I reduce the camber and make the tire track closer to flat? I did put a very low toe-in on it too, which I would not change, just camber. Spring perches are not fixed in place yet, so now is the time to change.
 

Weller

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Plans to mount an AC unit? Not sure what kind of ECUs those had but the nordic air units sound like a plane taking off when running ac. No idea how people could be in there (or outside near the unit) without hearing protection.

If you get a chance can you post a close up of the brackets that hold the ecu in place? I'm planning to add a 5000 btu to the S-250 I'm working on and will have to fabricate a support frame.
 

tobyS

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I'm planning a very small AC window unit on the back (right) side, next to the door that locks at 90 degree. I'll have an entirely new hole, just that size and with weather cover. On the AC, quiet and small size matters. I have a 5k Nordic I was gonna use in the front but decided to go more modern and small at the back.

Four steps to go up are to be left of the door.

On the front a 24" x 24" x 6'0" electrical enclosure (storage box) goes under the (angle) frame with a large door that opens down onto the tongue.
 

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Weller

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Thanks for posting more pics. The frame for the original ecu gives me an idea for one of my workshop shelters. Been myself looking at small and quite units, my local Home Depot has as small as 5000 btu, and they include a remote.

20190404_102325.jpg
 

tobyS

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The frame is coming together. I'm going to reposition the hitch on the tongue and will get a lifted ball, higher than what is on it. Ill probably put some flat 1/4x6" for strength. I wanted to keep it low but not underslung. The back gets a 36" porch with step, offsetting some tongue weight. The rectangle and 3" square stick out to attach the top fold up structure.
 

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tobyS

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An electric enclosure becomes a storage box and when the door is down can be a work area. It's just sitting there and will be mounted solid after the s788 box is plated an bolted to the frame. I'm going to need some weight on the rear.
 

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