Some annoying starting issue

I noticed that sometimes when I crank the truck. The engine would turn over but not catch. If I connect the slave cable and jump with my other cicv, she would glow a lot shorter time and then start right up. The batteries both show over 12,6v and I took the battery cables off and cleaned them. I can only think of two scenarios- one that the batteries don't hold the amperage needed, or that the battery connectors have not a good contact.
cucvrus?

319cssb said:

I noticed that sometimes when I crank the truck. The engine would turn over but not catch. If I connect the slave cable and jump with my other cicv, she would glow a lot shorter time and then start right up. The batteries both show over 12,6v and I took the battery cables off and cleaned them. I can only think of two scenarios- one that the batteries don't hold the amperage needed, or that the battery connectors have not a good contact.
cucvrus?

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Voltage doesn't mean much without load testing the batteries '
You should also keep all your starting issues in one thread.
Maybe a moderator can merge all these threads into 1 build thread so all the information is together rather than a new thread for each piece of your truck '
Multipal threads just make it harder for you to get answers , because nobody knows what has or has not been done .

[h=1]Tossing the push button start[/h]
[h=3]How to have several hours of fun with starter bolts[/h]
[h=1]voltmeter connection question[/h]
[h=1]Fan belt and alternator belt size[/h]

porkysplace said:

Voltage doesn't mean much without load testing the batteries '
You should also keep all your starting issues in one thread.
Maybe a moderator can merge all these threads into 1 build thread so all the information is together rather than a new thread for each piece of your truck '
Multipal threads just make it harder for you to get answers , because nobody knows what has or has not been done .

Tossing the push button start


How to have several hours of fun with starter bolts


voltmeter connection question


Fan belt and alternator belt size

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I am not sure what those posts , which were resolved have to do with this one. We could just roll every post someone makes in the CUCV forum into one thread, then. Hows that Idea?
Anyway, thanks for the effort and the somewhat helpful response.
But. porkysplace. you can also feel free to just read over my posts from now on. I make it up to you. I can clearly see how you feel tortured by me asking other members for help. thanks and have a nice day.

See if any connections get really hot after extended cranking. That indicates high resistance and could be the reason for your issue. The slave connector cables bypass the cables that connect to the batteries.

NDT said:

See if any connections get really hot after extended cranking. That indicates high resistance and could be the reason for your issue. The slave connector cables bypass the cables that connect to the batteries.

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Yes that was my thought as well. The slave cable goes straight to the power distribution bus bar. I have cleaned the connectors at the battery again and put in a larger ground cable from the front battery to the chassis. If that doesn't help I'll test the actual cranking amps of the battery.

Separate the batteries and load test each one.
One of them is not up to snuff.

Usually the front battery dies first, because it does all the work, along with the Gen 1

Tom

319cssb said:

I am not sure what those posts , which were resolved have to do with this one. We could just roll every post someone makes in the CUCV forum into one thread, then. Hows that Idea?
Anyway, thanks for the effort and the somewhat helpful response.
But. porkysplace. you can also feel free to just read over my posts from now on. I make it up to you. I can clearly see how you feel tortured by me asking other members for help. thanks and have a nice day.

Click to expand...

Well when you start a new thread for every nut and bolt it makes it hard for people who do search the threads for answers .

It could also be related to this thread ;
[h=1]Gear reduction starter and flexplate[/h]or this one

[h=1]slave cable receptacle plug and cables[/h]

TGP (IL) said:

Separate the batteries and load test each one.
One of them is not up to snuff.

Usually the front battery dies first, because it does all the work, along with the Gen 1

Tom

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Thank you, Tom
I'll focus on batteries and getting a rebuild for the Gen

I am catching the tail end of this debate. But yes I am a firm believer in good crimped/soldered cable ends, good high amperage batteries and thoroughly load tested batteries. Not a bad idea to be sure the starter is healthy also. But the bolt on lead cable ends are NOT the hot set up. I toss them and get new cables made up on every CUCV I see lately. They have been hacked and beat to death. So yes I think the others are heading you in the right direction. If you want my email address directly it is rengle523@comcast.net

I would be happy to assist you if you have issues. I am NOT a know it all and seldom read manuals to get information. I graduated from self learning, hard knocks and sorting thru truth and B.S. on a daily basis. Have a Great Day. Ask away on my email I will try and assist if I can. I still have my class ring but seldom wear it anymore.

Please let me know if your done with this thread, and I will close it.

No sence wasting everyone's time, if you're going to get your info/help elsewhere and not share/post it here.

Haaaaa... awesome, yes thank you for the email contact.
What you say to questions is in every case I asked spot on and the response is thought through.
I'll check the batteries, get new wires and have the alternators rebuild.

doghead said:

Please let me know if your done with this thread, and I will close it.

No sence wasting everyone's time, if you're going to get your info/help elsewhere and not share/post it here.

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I share knowledge on a daily basis. I also learn constantly. I am being truthful and honest with my replies. I have refrained from badgering or talking down on others that are less knowledgeable. I never direct people asking questions to TM's and sticky's. I try and think out every answer I give to be non confrontational and as timely and accurate as possible. When someone asks a question they are looking for an honest answer in a timely manner. Not sent off somewhere to read thru endless pages of procedures and reading. I directed him to contact my email to ward off any offensive answers that may deter him from asking another question ever. Fact: People ask questions. People deserve respect and accurate answers. Many answers including mine are based on real life experience and knowledge. I am never going to 100% accurate but I strive to help everyone when ever possible. This is a hobby. Enjoy it and help others or it becomes a task and then others will fear asking for answers or advice. I see the same people with the same answers many times here. Have a Great Day. I am NOT wasting every ones time but did not want to stand by and not answer the few easy questions answered. Enjoy your Weekend.

Recommend you Replace all the cables like mentioned.

I installed a new battery lug connector on one of mine a while back.
When I cut back the almost pristine insulation several inches, the wires underneath had corrosion on them.
That affects the current flow.

Age is hard on wiring.
It affects aircraft wiring, etc. the same as truck wiring.
Even in the best environment it still deteriorates.

cucvrus said:

If you want my email address directly it is DON'T POST YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS ON A FORUM UNLESS YOU LOVE SPAM!

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Here's why: Spambots.


Rick, I suggest you edit your post! You can always send an email address via PM.

Tinstar said:

When I cut back the almost pristine insulation several inches, the wires underneath had corrosion on them.

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Yep. A visual inspection is not enough.

When I have cables made (www.bestboatwire.com) I always specify the clear heat shrink on the ends, so I can see what's going on at the connection. That gives me a head start on catching corrosion.

But I would not replace the cables yet. I'd start with a load test on the batteries. He might need to replace the cables, too, but I'd still start with the load test. It's free, and will tell you a lot.

MarcusOReallyus said:

Yep. A visual inspection is not enough.

When I have cables made (www.bestboatwire.com) I always specify the clear heat shrink on the ends, so I can see what's going on at the connection. That gives me a head start on catching corrosion.

But I would not replace the cables yet. I'd start with a load test on the batteries. He might need to replace the cables, too, but I'd still start with the load test. It's free, and will tell you a lot.

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I agree
I Just didn’t type that thought

CUCVRus is one of the guys that make this forum great. Each vehicle subcategory has its knowledge guy and CUCVRus is the one for the CUCV forum. He's usually the one who's advise pulls the most weight in regards as to where I go with a repair. While others get a thank you, some don't get a response and others make it to my ignore list (so don't be surprised if I won't ever reply directly to you!)
Like electricity I go the path of least resistance, and won't waste my time or anyone else's time on arguments online with strangers, I won't ever know.

with that said
I will check and remedy
-batteries
-cables
-alternator
-the weather
-moon cycle, to figure out members mood and major malfunction.