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Jeepsinker's M35A2 6BT Cummins swap ( pics and videos)

Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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Thought this was worth noting; as I've always suspected, my truck never went through a depot overhaul. Every dated component is dated 1969, down to individual wires in the harness ( which I have now replaced) and all three of my axle housings and Differentials are dated within one five day work week of each other. The transmission, engine,and transfer case had all been replaced at some point, but the case is dated 1970, and the engine was a thin deck, so still early. My truck was truly a survivor. Basically what I'm doing now is a depot level overhaul but I've stopped short of a true depot overhaul ( budget). Here's some pictures I've taken during the project I thought were cool that didn't make my videos.

If you look carefully you can see the date stamped in the housing below the axle data plate. The Dana/ Detroit stamp is on the driver side rear frame corner just below the shackle bracket.
 

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winfred

winfred

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port allen la
cool project, i have the goodies to set the timing on a 12v if you want to check or adjust it if you don't, my dodge likes 16.5* with its 215hp 887 pump, other pumps are different and the turbodieselregister.com should be a good source of info for cummins mods. did you tab the dowel pin in the timing case? a search about killer dowel pin or kdp should be useful if you are not familiar, id suspect you are but its a useful subject for others that follow to be aware of
 
Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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winfred said:
cool project, i have the goodies to set the timing on a 12v if you want to check or adjust it if you don't, my dodge likes 16.5* with its 215hp 887 pump, other pumps are different and the turbodieselregister.com should be a good source of info for cummins mods. did you tab the dowel pin in the timing case? a search about killer dowel pin or kdp should be useful if you are not familiar, id suspect you are but its a useful subject for others that follow to be aware of
Click to expand...
First thing I did to the engine was tab the dowel pin. I also set my timing to 16.5°, up from 11.5°. My pump is a 190 horsepower pump. I also installed 3200 governor springs, ground the fuel plate, and slid both the plate and the AFC housing all the way forward. No other power modification done yet. I don't want to go crazy and break something right away. If I can get 200- 225, or maybe even 250 horsepower I'll be set up happily.

https://youtu.be/d4Nl7ZuGbNo
 

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winfred

winfred

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port allen la
mine? easy to do as you can see it from the interstate at the lobdel exit in port allen. ive got 330 marine injectors and a 10 plate almost full forward with a turbonetics stage 1 ball bearing hanging on a ats 3 piece exhaust manifold on the dodge dually, runs like a alarmed hominid. tried ddp stage 2 injectors but they were hot, smokey and slower then the 330hp marines, fluid damper balancer works nice and is noticeable in effects, Y intake manifold going to split grid heaters was a nice drop in egt's too.
im probably around 350 hp, major air upgrades aren't need for 250 and i think you'll be close
 
Last edited:
winfred

winfred

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it actually softened driveline vibrations, didn't expect that, heard guys with dual and triple disc clutches it even helps with the noise of the floaters, but im not that ex stream in power
 
silverstate55

silverstate55

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winfred said:
it actually softened driveline vibrations, didn't expect that, heard guys with dual and triple disc clutches it even helps with the noise of the floaters, but im not that ex stream in power
Click to expand...
It helped settle down vibrations in my 2001 24-valve as well...the Fluid Damper really is worth it.
 
Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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Dry Creek, Louisiana
Lots of progress the past couple days. Fender primed and painted, exhaust started, radiator and intercooler bracket started, windshield frame painted and installed. Using full 4" exhaust from turbo to weather flapper, all joints welded except the two where the stainless flex joint meets hard pipe. This is actually turning out to be really fun!

It has been a long time since I've been on this forum, and I've honestly kinda missed it. It feels great to share this project with you all. It feels like a renewal not only for the truck, but for myself. I've been down for quite a long time and this is really helping me feel like myself again. So thank you all for following along, whether it be just here, or on my YouTube channel.
 

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Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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Ok, so the clutch! Here's what I used to mate the 6BT to the 3053A:

Flywheel: 3908574 -14", 173 teeth
Clutch: SPICER TYPE - 1.5", 10 SPLINE, 107621-1 ( under $300)
4 button ceramic, 500 Lb/ ft rated @ 30K lbs
Source- Phoenixfriction.com, $291+ $31 Shipping
Pilot bearing, two choices:
-6206 with custom bronze reducer bushing
-chinese agricultural bearing, Hi-Light 206GGH Ag radial 3/4"
52mm o.d. to 3/4" ID.

Bushing- 1.178" o.d. shank, 1.129 o.d. shoulder, 0.125 thick shoulder, 0.751 overall length, 0.750 inner diameter. Oil impregnated bronze
Bushing was machined by my good friend Larry Brown at Larry's Machine.

No pics, but two videos covering all this and some more.

https://youtu.be/BRNLoz-Ld3U

https://youtu.be/3x4srw1oSv8
 
gentrysgarage

gentrysgarage

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Lost Angels, CA
HiYa Jeepsinker, I have 2 questions for you. Where in relation to the top rail of the frame is your crank centerline front and back? Did you angle the motor for alignment of the transmission to transfer case? I am designing the rear motor mounts now for my swap so I can slide them in with the trap door gin pole project when I get the parts water jetted. Thanks!
 
Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,341
329
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
gentrysgarage said:
HiYa Jeepsinker, I have 2 questions for you. Where in relation to the top rail of the frame is your crank centerline front and back? Did you angle the motor for alignment of the transmission to transfer case? I am designing the rear motor mounts now for my swap so I can slide them in with the trap door gin pole project when I get the parts water jetted. Thanks!
Click to expand...
In the front my crank centerline is exactly 1" above the top surface of the frame rails. I just measured that for you because I don't have the radiator in right now. I did give it a slight rearward tilt to align the transmission output flange with the transfer case flange. I have no way to measure the rear crankshaft centerline right now. My apologies.

There is quite a lot on building the mounts and later modifying them during installation on my YouTube channel. I thought you were a regular viewer? Maybe I'm mistaken.
 
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