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T-1138 Question

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
I just got my T-1138 today and I had noticed that my shaft to the transmission doesn't turn the shaft to the rear shaft with the drum on it but the rear shaft when turned turns the shaft to that would go to the transmission is that normal? Does that mean the transfer case needs constant air to it for it to engage? Thanks.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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No. Your input shaft should spin the output shaft with the drum.

Only the front output needs air to lock it in.

Check to make sure the shift fork rod is all the way in for high range or all the way out for low range
 

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
No. Your input shaft should spin the output shaft with the drum.

Only the front output needs air to lock it in.

Check to make sure the shift fork rod is all the way in for high range or all the way out for low range
Thanks for the response I'm actually going to go check that now.
 

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
No. Your input shaft should spin the output shaft with the drum.

Only the front output needs air to lock it in.

Check to make sure the shift fork rod is all the way in for high range or all the way out for low range
the shift fork rod won't even budge in or out.... is there something I'm missing or did I just get screwed?
 

simp5782

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Put a bolt thru it and use a pry bar to push out on it. Or hook some channel locks on it and tug on it. takes a little leverage. May spin the Jack shaft if it's in a bind itll help
 

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
Put a bolt thru it and use a pry bar to push out on it. Or hook some channel locks on it and tug on it. takes a little leverage. May spin the Jack shaft if it's in a bind itll help
It's stuck like in the middle it won't go in but it's not in all the way and I can just barely pull it out enough if I'm pulling it full strength to make the two spin any ideas what it could be stuck on?
 

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
Where did you buy the case from? Did you trust the person you bought it from?
Got it from Aldermans Used Trucks was told it was a good running take out as for trusting don't trust anyone that much but you gotta buy parts and its either take outs/rebuilts/or NOS and they all have their share of problems. Tried calling them but their parts guy is out until monday but could be there to sale it though... I managed to get it all the way out so they turn together I'm assuming that's high (?) but it still won't go in any ideas what could be holding it up? Is there a spring on the fork or something?
 
Last edited:

simp5782

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Got it from Aldermans Used Trucks was told it was a good running take out as for trusting don't trust anyone that much but you gotta buy parts and its either take outs/rebuilts/or NOS and they all have their share of problems. Tried calling them but their parts guy is out until monday but could be there to sale it though... I managed to get it all the way out so they turn together I'm assuming that's high (?) but it still won't go in any ideas what could be holding it up? Is there a spring on the fork or something?
No spring. Only air locks the fork from the top cylinder. All the way out is low range. Pull the top cover and see if the fork is moving or if its bound up. You may have to hit it with a hammer to get it in all the.way. It uses leverage on the linkage on the truck
 

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
No spring. Only air locks the fork from the top cylinder. All the way out is low range. Pull the top cover and see if the fork is moving or if its bound up. You may have to hit it with a hammer to get it in all the.way. It uses leverage on the linkage on the truck
Thanks for all your help I'm gonna mess with it some more I'll tell you how it works out.
 

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
Oil in it? Might make a difference.
Thought about that luckily with the help of a big hammer, and a suggestion of taking the top plate off from Simp I got it to work finally. So now I just have strip it, paint it, and put it in. Any suggestion on what would be the best oil to replace the old stuff with? There's so many to pick from.
 
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Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
No spring. Only air locks the fork from the top cylinder. All the way out is low range. Pull the top cover and see if the fork is moving or if its bound up. You may have to hit it with a hammer to get it in all the.way. It uses leverage on the linkage on the truck
Thanks for the suggestions I finally had to remove the top cover.... but it now goes in and pulls out still a little sticky but that may just be due to design or bad oil not sure. I only saw one speedo line on the transfer case but on the back of my speedometer there's two lines does one go to the transmission or do they both go to the transmission or am I missing something? Still have to remove the old transfer case so I might not of seen something yet.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Location
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Speedo should have a single line unless you have the clock type speedo/tach unit.

Use 80/90 gear oil. Add a bottle of Lucas if you want. run it a few hundred miles or a few hours after install with no driveline in and let it get any crap out of the lines and case. Drain and refill
 

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
Speedo should have a single line unless you have the clock type speedo/tach unit.

Use 80/90 gear oil. Add a bottle of Lucas if you want. run it a few hundred miles or a few hours after install with no driveline in and let it get any crap out of the lines and case. Drain and refill
Well, yeah I must have the clock type speedo can I plug one of the two fittings on it or do I have to replace the speedo?
Good suggestion on cleaning out the transfer crap. I also read on one of the people that did the transfer case swap that their drive shaft weren't long enough or too long or something like that. I got the flange you recommended, and I also noticed it looks like it might just bolt in the stock location.... just wondering if the driveshafts aren't the right size what would they be too short or too long?
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
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376
83
Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Well, yeah I must have the clock type speedo can I plug one of the two fittings on it or do I have to replace the speedo?
Good suggestion on cleaning out the transfer crap. I also read on one of the people that did the transfer case swap that their drive shaft weren't long enough or too long or something like that. I got the flange you recommended, and I also noticed it looks like it might just bolt in the stock location.... just wondering if the driveshafts aren't the right size what would they be too short or too long?
Look up tachymeter and read the back of your speedometer to see what goes where speedometer cable in one and tachometer in the other.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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