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Thread: What do I need to remount hmmwv tires with the beadlock and runflats?

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    General Loco_Hosa's Avatar
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    Default What do I need to remount hmmwv tires with the beadlock and runflats?

    [I didn't see a tire forum, wasn't sure if this belonged in the Cucv forum or the hmmwv forum]

    Hey y'all. Finished the axle swap and 52 inch spring conversion on my M1009, got the 37s on, and first trip out it split a sidewall going up a hill. I've gotten another matching tire, tried to do some research on YouTube, and now I'm here with some questions before I attempt this.

    Is the gasket reusable?
    What's your favorite way to balance these?
    Does a tire machine help at all?
    I've read that the bead lock nuts shouldn't be reused. Is this true?
    What direction are these supposed to face? [Up till now they are all mounted the same, so one side is ”backwards”]

    Just trying to come up with a strategy before I start into these. I've heard they are an absolute bear.

    Bonus question, what's your favorite way to carry a spare 37 inch tire and Jack?

    Photos of the truck and the tire:
    https://imgur.com/a/M8W93WZ

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    Corporal stevenbeven's Avatar
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    HMMVW Rims separation & run-flat insert removal + Hutchenson beadlock insert install
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...8&share_type=t


    I did this a while back with mine. Certainly was a learning experience. Getting these to actually seal was a bit of a pain but using 3M spray glue seemed to do well on the beadlocks.

    I’m sure there are other good threads but the link above was my experience with videos. Had to do some in after work time so some is dark.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1985 M1028 454 Swap

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    4 Star General NormB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loco_Hosa View Post
    [I didn't see a tire forum, wasn't sure if this belonged in the Cucv forum or the hmmwv forum]

    Hey y'all. Finished the axle swap and 52 inch spring conversion on my M1009, got the 37s on, and first trip out it split a sidewall going up a hill. I've gotten another matching tire, tried to do some research on YouTube, and now I'm here with some questions before I attempt this.

    Is the gasket reusable?
    What's your favorite way to balance these?
    Does a tire machine help at all?
    I've read that the bead lock nuts shouldn't be reused. Is this true?
    What direction are these supposed to face? [Up till now they are all mounted the same, so one side is ”backwards”]

    Just trying to come up with a strategy before I start into these. I've heard they are an absolute bear.

    Bonus question, what's your favorite way to carry a spare 37 inch tire and Jack?

    Photos of the truck and the tire:
    https://imgur.com/a/M8W93WZ
    tires are bidirectional.

    you COULD swap 'em around until one set's aimed arrow down, another arrow up (from POV looking at the tread from the front of the truck).

    seals need to be replaced.

    Nuts are cheap. Self-locking, you can buy a bag of 100 off the evil auction site (or jungle site) for cheap. They work better when new.

    Balancing CAN be done with the run-flats installed. I had Jeff (AOR here) do it on his $20,000 machine (road force testing, forget make/model). One wheel took something like 11.5 ounces on the inside, most only needed a few to about 6 ounces.

    But the manuals (hint-hint... and there IS one on wheels and tires around here somewhere) advises using a bubble level. Close enough for government work, I guess.

    My next project is pulling the tires off the wheels and reinstalling them on a set of NIB 12 bolt wheels I got cheap ($75 each delivered from CA to MD) off the evil auction site. As we were balancing the tires, we found out two of the wheels are warped enough that the centerline of the tires shifts side to side about 1/2-5/8". This makes some vibration and whining NOISE you can feel AND hear over engine/exhaust/wind/earplugs after about 15mph. When those wheels were up front, you could make the sound go away some by turning a little rt to left or vice versa. We put 'em on the rear and they're still noisy but the vibration's less noticeable.

    I bought the hutchinson run-flat removal tool. Just need to plan this out and do it right, once.

    Have fun.
    A day without rivnuts is like a day without a Humvee mod.

    MEP-802A TQG 04-2016
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    M1038 W/W 6.2L NA 9-2016
    MEP-803a TQG 09-2018

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    Sergeant Major ridenby's Avatar
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    I have reused the nuts and the O-rings. Have replaced them too. Stretch the o ring and use super glue to hold it in the grove,does not take much. Use a five gallon bucket to get the Tire off the ground,much easier to get back bead off.

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    General Loco_Hosa's Avatar
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    Well, got it apart! A 10,000lb ratchet strap and a three foot pry bar to get it tight enough and it went in easier than I'd expected.

    Ordering the oring 9452K451 from McMaster.
    Picking up the nuts this week
    Some light rust between the two parts of the wheel, going to clean that up and paint it this weekend.

    Only big snag is that I broke the valve stem off. How you ask? With an impact because I'm an idiot. Can't believe how pricy they are online, best I've found so far is $40.



    Thanks for all the help! Another project I'm not afraid to tackle on my own in the future.

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    4 Star General Sharecropper's Avatar
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    I used RTV to hold the O-ring in place while the outer rim was torqued down. RTV seemed to work better than Super Glue, which the previous owner had used and made a mess and had to be chipped out with a sharp screwdriver.
    Let us know how that McMaster O-ring fits.

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    I've used super glue- it isn't perfect.

    I have O-rings from McMaster in mine - took a little stretching and gluing. Also- I might have one of the 12 bolt style valve stems at home for you. Will check tomorrow.

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