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Thread: Libby 802 Coolant temp.

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    Default Libby 802 Coolant temp.

    Libby Mep 802. I am still in the testing phase for my unit. Today I hooked up a new heater as recommended here by some( Comfort Zone CZ220 Ceiling-Mounted 3-Setting Fan-Forced Industrial Heater) 3.5k, 4k and 5k settings. In the 5k setting I was pulling 20 amps at 240 volts. Calculations say 4.8 k . I did see a rich, dark looking exhaust. Maybe a bit more rich than expected. I also noticed the temp steady at 160 F. I then measured with a laser probe temp sensor, it showed 160 also. After looking through the TM and several post here I think I have a 160 thermostat in there. I think and guess that I need to replace it with the 180 F thermostat MU55358, gasket 2138. Also note the exhaust muffler was 320F if I remember. The engine body temp was 160 F also. I am NOT a mechanic but think it would possibly help with some wet stacking if those conditions exist for me later. I was also thinking the engine would perform better/ more efficient/more horsepower. I would like some opinions on whether to replace it or leave it. I am in N. Carolina where it is pretty hot. My end goal is to have a whole house setup with manual load management. My needs are 4 ton heat pump (emergency elements off), 2 refrigerators and 1 freezer. Miscellaneous lights and TV. Stove microwave and water heater managed with out the ac on of course. I do have a cloths dryer but I can live with out it for a long while so it is not even considered. No water pump to consider as well. I will plan to get an 803 and keep the 802 as a back up. Big question for me is do I need an 803. The cost of the generator is not in the calculation ( I am not rich but $3 or $4 k is not going to make difference in my decision). Our issue here for the past several years is hurricanes leaving us with out power for a week or so twice. I need and desire AC. Thoughts on this sizing also.



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    Without knowing the exact specs of the heat pump it's kind of hard to give an exact answer, but most likely you'll need the 803 as a run of the mill 4 ton heat pump is going to be minimum 26 amps and max of 40-45 amps surge on 208/240VAC. The two freezers, fridge, lights and TV are almost negligible in comparison, depending on specs for them you might be anywhere from a half KW when everything is running up to a couple KW if everything cycled at the same time. Microwave you can count on another KW, the stove depends on what part you are using, anywhere from 1kw up to 4 or 5kw with oven on, and the water heater if it's electric is also in the 4.5KW range give or take a KW.

    I usually deal with explaining Generac standbys to customers, and as they're primarily natural gas or LP they don't care about being run on light load, whereas these military gens thrive under heavy load but don't like light loads.

    The 802 would handle everything except for the heat pump with load management, it's what I do at my own house (I'm fortunate enough not to need aircon where I'm at), but adding in the heat pump personally I'd say go for the 803 instead, I seriously doubt you'll be unhappy if you do, but the 802, while it might be barely enough to handle what you're talking about, probably isn't quite enough to do so with any comfort margin.

    As for the 160 thermostat, in the manual it says the thermostat is supposed to start opening at 160, and be fully opened at 185, so I'd say most likely it needs replaced with the correct one.

    It also says normal operating temp is 170-200, and since you checked the actual temps on it and not just relying on the gauge, I'd say replacing it's a good idea.

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    An 802 can run a few window units that you keep in your basement for alot cheaper than buying and maintenance on two generators.

    We need more specs on your AC.

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    You owe it to yourself to do an amp load calculation on your 'must run' items, to determine a baseline. All the machines should have data plates/stickers on them which show how much power they actually use. Tally that up and let us know. Then you move down the line from 'needs' to 'wants'.

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    I have done the numbers and as long as they do not start up at the same time it squeezes in. Barely. How about the thermostat question? Libby Mep 802. I am still in the testing phase for my unit. Today I hooked up a new heater as recommended here by some( Comfort Zone CZ220 Ceiling-Mounted 3-Setting Fan-Forced Industrial Heater) 3.5k, 4k and 5k settings. In the 5k setting I was pulling 20 amps at 240 volts. Calculations say 4.8 k . I did see a rich, dark looking exhaust. Maybe a bit more rich than expected. I also noticed the temp steady at 160 F. I then measured with a laser probe temp sensor, it showed 160 also. After looking through the TM and several post here I think I have a 160 thermostat in there. I think and guess that I need to replace it with the 180 F thermostatMU55358, gasket 2138. Also note the exhaust muffler was 320F if I remember. The engine body temp was 160 F also. I am NOT a mechanic but think it would possibly help with some wet stacking if those conditions exist for me later. I was also thinking the engine would perform better/ more efficient/more horsepower. I would like some opinions on whether to replace it or leave it. I am in N. Carolina where it is pretty hot.
    Last edited by PoP PoP; 06-12-2019 at 22:31. Reason: Add orig question

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    160 is too cold. You've verified that it's staying at that temp using the laser probe temp sensor and not just a gauge error.

    The TM says it should be 170-200 during normal operation, if it's below that under a load, then something isn't right, so get a new thermostat and gasket installed and check to make sure that takes care of it. I'm not as familiar on these as some, but I don't see what else it could be other than the thermostat is the wrong one, is opening early, or maybe has something preventing it from closing.

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    The thermostat and gasket are cheap. Drain the coolest into a clean container. Reuse if clean. One way or another, you are going to have to look at it, as it's running too cold. Running at the right temp means less wet stacking. What's to contemplate here? One step at a time. Fix the small problems, the big ones go away.

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    The thermostat itself is an easy job. Not too hard to access. The real PITA is re-filling with the horizontal radiator cap. There are some really nice plastic funnel kits on E-Pay and Amazon that connect to the filler neck and make for much reduced swearing.
    The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.

    -- Harlan Ellison

    Now, if we could only harness the power stupidity...


    1969 Kaiser M36A2 WO/W
    MEP-802A

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    And more of a PITA if you have a trailered set. At least with the genset only, you can put a block under the radiator fill side to tilt the machine to help.

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    And to the OP, have you had this machine fully loaded for testing purposes? The dark smoke could very well be due to top end wet stacking that is burning off... or it could be something else. Let us know more about how you have seen this machine run before (or if you havent). Won't hurt to throw a full bottle of Seafoam into the tank while you do this, to help clean things up. Hows your oil pressure? Do you have any noticeable blowby?

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