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Thread: M1008 turbo and serpentin swap

  1. #11
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    Sharecropper, I actually have gotten a lot of inspiration from you 1028 build. It's one of the reasons I decided to get another CUCV after I sold my last one five years ago. I'll break them down like you did as I redo the interior/finish up the resto.

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    4 Star General Sharecropper's Avatar
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    Thanks. If I could just re-retire I could get my new P400 and 700R4 installed. Let me know if I can assist you in anyway.

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    Thank you!

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    Just browsed through this, and loved the detail you went through and the info you provided!

    I'm following this thread for sure, need some inspiration for my civilian 6.2L K10 Suburban.


    --- Gary

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    Gary, Glad to hear it. I haven't had a chance to put it to work yet, but there have been reports of positive results from others who have done similar mods to their 6.2's. Once I'm done fixing up the gauge cluster/dash and installing my other gauges, I will update this thread on how it performs.

    There is a lot of nitnoid details I left out, so if you have any questions feel free to PM me or weigh in on it here in the thread.
    Ray
    US Army

    M1008

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    4 Star General Barrman's Avatar
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    Looks good. I did a Banks kit on a GEP 6500 a few years ago and am building another GEP 6500 currently in my class with the GM turbo set up. How did you run your cross over pipe and down pipe?
    "If you didn't build it, you can't call it yours."

    1952 M35 W/W Gasser
    1953 M35 W/W Gasser
    1967 M715 6.2/NV4500
    1967 M416
    1971 M35A2 Whistler W/W
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1986 M105A3
    1987 M1007 Suburban (Cowdog)
    1988 M105A3
    1990 M101A2
    1991 M101A2

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    Barrman, were you happy with your Banks kit?

    I haven't gotten around to getting the crossover and downpipe installed yet. At the moment, I'm knee deep in repairing the damage that the PO did to the instrument panel when he installed some aftermarket gauges in the ports for the Gen 1&2 bulbs, I will document the repairs here in the thread.

    Once I wrap up with the instrument panel repairs, I will be taking it to a local speed shop to have them fab up a crossover and turbo back pipe. I consulted with the shop owner already, and he took a drive over to check out what I needed to get fabbed up.

    Just a heads up for you with your GMx turbo 6500 build and anyone else considering the GM turbo swap; Since I retained the 6.2 drivers side exhaust manifold, it will need a few additional bends for the crossover. Also, since the K30 frame is narrower than a K3500, the down pipe is going to have come down through the inner fender well behind the shock mount, and follow the outer frame rail. My plan is to have it terminate in front of the rear tire in a 45 angled downward, to avoid rolling coal onto other motorists in the other lane.
    Ray
    US Army

    M1008

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    Quote Originally Posted by CUCV18series View Post
    ***One issue I ran into was alternator selection. I could fab up a bracket to retain the 27SI, but mine had gone bad (isolated ground post had literally corroded off) and in lieu of taking the chances with a rebuild I opted for a CS130 model that came stock with the 6.5 diesel. This meant I needed to purchase an adapter harness. This is a go between harness with pigtails to adapt a SI model alternator to a CS model. These can be found on various hotrodder retail sites for around $5. The model I selected was for a truck/car with an indicator light, as this is what is used to excite the alternator.

    ***The CS130 is grounded through its case, unlike the Isolated ground 27SI model from the original 24V set up. I am working off of a 12V set up. I do not have an answer for retaining 24V and attempting the serpentine swap with regards to alternator selection. I am sure someone here more experienced with the 24V system can weigh in better than me.***

    Thinking out loud: these 1988-1995 serpentine belt setups should work for most 24v CUCVs, so long as...


    1) the CS-130 can be modified to accept an isolated ground stud

    • in lieu of an AC compressor delete pulley, use a passenger side alternator bracket from the 1996-2000 serpentine setup for GEN2

    2) the 27SI alternators maintain correct belt alignment with a serpentine pulley installed (in place of the V-belt pulley)

    • the stock CUCV passenger side alternator bracket can be reused for GEN2




    Quote Originally Posted by CUCV18series View Post
    Gary, Glad to hear it. I haven't had a chance to put it to work yet, but there have been reports of positive results from others who have done similar mods to their 6.2's. Once I'm done fixing up the gauge cluster/dash and installing my other gauges, I will update this thread on how it performs.

    There is a lot of nitnoid details I left out, so if you have any questions feel free to PM me or weigh in on it here in the thread.
    Will do, thanks!

    Question about your turbo manifold clearance issues... Are your stock motor mounts collapsed? Any thoughts on installing polyurethane inserts?
    --- Gary

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    Gary, I think you're onto something. However I cannot verify that the Gen 1 alternator can mount up using the 6.5 alternator bracket without modification to the bracket which holds the top mounting bracket of the 27SI. The CS130 top bolt is held in place by a bracket that is bolted through the tensioner pulley and over to the top alternator mounting tab. I've attached some close up photos as they sit on my current set up.

    - Maybe a fabbed bracket coming off one of the intake manifold studs? The lower 27S1 mounting tabs will have enough clearance to physically overlap the 6.5 bracket, and with the addition of some washers to act as shims to keep everything tight. When I initially attempted to retain the 27 SI, I believe there was an internal gap of approximately 1/4 inch between the alternator bracket mount and both mounting tabs of the 27SI. I placed various sized washers inside these gaps and then the lower mounting bolt through, unfortunately neither the stock 6.2, nor the 6.5 upper tab mounting brackets were able to secure the top alternator mounting tab.

    -For the Turbo exhaust manifold; My issue was not so much clearance with the frame, as it was getting enough clearance to avoid the exhaust manifold rubbing/touching the innermost injectors and lines. Several other guys who have done this swap had mentioned using two exhaust gaskets as extra space, but I chose to have a 1/4 spacer made to ensure injector the injector to manifold gap was appropriate. By adding the spacer, that's when I ran into the clearance issues of hitting the frame and had to lift the engine up. This could also be remedied by switching to Van or 6.5 injectors, which are shorter. However, am not sure about functionality when swapping injectors, as the fuel pumps are different. I chose to just install the spacer rather than open the can of worms with injector swapping.
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    Last edited by CUCV18series; 06-15-2019 at 15:46.
    Ray
    US Army

    M1008

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    GM had a dual alternator set up for service vehicles like ambulances. Single thermostat and dual thermostat versions. I have not yet figured out how to isolate ground the CS130.

    There is a guy selling GMx turbo down pipes for the square body trucks on eBay that fits inside the frame rails. I think a body lift is either required or suggested.

    GM turbo will also not work with stock GM ac evaporators. Vintage Air only with the GM turbo.

    I am building the 6500 in my class with the GM turbo to go into RED some day. Since it is a stock M1009 currently the ac isn’t an issue. I am doing the serpentine belt stuff on the engine in the can so it will be in the same place as the engine. This is Colton’s truck so it probably won’t get swapped until he is done with college.

    My Cowdog truck was a stock civilian 1987 V2500 owned by Warthog. Because dual ac is really needed here in Texas. I had to keep the factory evaporator set up under the hood. I also wanted the exhaust to go past the rear tires. The Banks kit made that all easy. Checking eBay and Craigslist hourly paid off after a few weeks and I got one for what I thought was the right price on my limited budget.

    Just the pre formed complete exhaust was worth a good bit of the kit cost.

    That is is why I went Banks. I have put around 9,000 miles on it. The 4x4 square body 3/4 ton Suburbans had a factory gross combined vehicle weight rating of 8,900 pounds. It will do that at 70 mph all day long and never slow down for hills. I love it. I have yet to fill it up, get on the interstate, set the cruise and just go for a few hundred miles to top it off and repeat.

    Just about every tank so far has some trailer pulling and in town driving included. I am around 14 mpg average. Which is about what a modern turbo diesel will do but at tremendous higher buy in cost and no satisfaction of building it myself.

    It seems the Banks turbo for the early Ford 7.3 engine has a waste gate and is bigger. It will bolt onto the 6.2 Banks manifold and give boost right off idle. Something the GM system will also do.

    Here is my Cowdog thread:

    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...e-Build-Thread
    "If you didn't build it, you can't call it yours."

    1952 M35 W/W Gasser
    1953 M35 W/W Gasser
    1967 M715 6.2/NV4500
    1967 M416
    1971 M35A2 Whistler W/W
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1986 M105A3
    1987 M1007 Suburban (Cowdog)
    1988 M105A3
    1990 M101A2
    1991 M101A2

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