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M116A3 Fix-up & Conversion Thread

CallMeColt

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Colt that looks good! Thanks for all the pics.

Yea, the brakes on mine tend to buck a bit too. I just drug mine 800 miles down I40 the other day and that was a bit unnerving at points, particularly when raining, because, until I figured out what was going on, it wasn't clear to me if it was the ABS in the car doing it or what it was. My guess is that it's not normally going to be an issue for most folks, but something to be aware of "just in case".

I like your aux tank idea. Can you please post more pics/info on that? What model? More on how you mounted it? I'm not opposed to a larger tank if it requires mods/blocks access to the back panel. First because I can lift the genset off the trailer entirely if it comes to it, and second, because if memory serves, there's not much on that back panel that would require access? Or at least I don't have any hatches on that face that I am yet aware of (but I'm very green with these units at the moment)?

Thanks,
SJ/JD
Once everything comes in & I mount it, I will share some details. Want to be sure it all works out first!

I plan to just connect it to the existing connection on the generator so there isn't a whole lot of modification. I can then also remove the hose quickly to attach to another source if I needed too.
 

CallMeColt

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You want a CO2 extinguisher for the generator. Check out this link: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?171026-Generator-Accessories . Daybreak and others educated me when I had an ABC unit installed on my trailer. ABC chemicals damage wiring and electrical connections. Yours looks like an ABC......
You know, I actually though about this. Thanks for the reminder. I got the brand new one on their at no cost to me so I'm going to leave it on there until I can get the proper one.
 

CallMeColt

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The trailer bucking when you apply the brakes means your shock inside the surge assembly is worn out.
Easy to change but the shock isn’t cheap.
The lowest price you will find is at Croft Trailer.
https://www.crofttrailer.com/1844-2-hydro-act-actuator-damper-shock/
It’s a factory part.

It will make a huge difference on how your trailer brakes.
Funny, I just got done spending a few hours adjusting the service brakes & ripping the front end apart & found this...
65309143_635578326945853_1396318005645803520_n.jpg
I'm going to remove it all the way for inspection but I'm sure it's bad.
Since there was no fluid in the master cylinder at all when I got it, the trailer slammed forward when stopping. I didn't drive it much more than that except taking it home but who knows how long it has been like that. Bet the shock is blown out. Will follow up later this evening once I'm all wrapped up.
 

CallMeColt

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Well, I'm done for tonight.

Shock is definitely bad as you can see by the pictures that it stays compressed.

65112904_347256045950837_3327533098056286208_n.jpg65292736_325046945072630_6806731567327608832_n.jpg

Here are some links to replacement of the shock that I know of right now... I don't like the prices;

https://www.crofttrailer.com/1844-2-hydro-act-actuator-damper-shock/#page=page-1

https://www.etrailer.com/p-1844-2.html

The shock has the Monroe logo on it with two numbers... 47530 & C201V2. May bring it to some local auto parts stores to see if they can find something cheaper.

I just left the shock out of the trailer for the time being. It's useless.

The brake lock holes didn't line up at all. Almost as if the hanger brackets for the coupler was sitting to low. Took a picture to explain better. This made it impossible to put a pin or bolt through securely.

65212954_428207401365808_920119446641573888_n.jpg

So, I decided to just drill 1/2in through everything so I could use a 1/2in trailer hitch pin like I did at the rear of the trailer for the kickstand.

64999108_2291067007800595_1141254543774842880_n.jpg

With that pin in, the trailer is now serviceable. I have a big truck so the trailer weight isn't an issue. I will get the brakes working though... just want to find a cheaper source for the part if possible first.
 

Sgt Jiggins

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The shock has the Monroe logo on it with two numbers... 47530 & C201V2. May bring it to some local auto parts stores to see if they can find something cheaper.
Danged if I can find it now, but ran across a thread the other day where someone posted the exact dimensions of the shock. Pin-to-pin, width, ...

I'll take those Monroe #s down to the old guy at my nearby NAPA this afternoon and see what he can do. He loves me- I bring him all kinds of interesting green projects to sort.
 

CallMeColt

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Zed254 sent me a PM since he started digging in on the shock issue before I could get to it after work.

He found Monroe part number 66120. It's a cab shock for trucks. It's really close in measurements to the 1844-2 shock mentioned & linked above. Here is a link;
http://www.monroe.com/en-US/e-catalog/66120

The compressed/extended lengths on the 1844-2 shock are 6.25in/8.125in. The 66120 is 6.5in/8.5in. The pin holes are 1/32 bigger maybe... converting from metric isn't exact. I really don't think these slight differences will matter.

The only major difference I noticed was the internal pin sleeve on the rear mount of the shock isn't extra long on the 66120. Looking at the one I have out, I don't think that the extended sleeve would matter much. If it was an issue, I'm thinking just putting the old sleeve in the new shock wouldn't be to hard.

Local NAPA has the cab shock for $62.99 + tax & shipping. Zed254 & I found it for around $40 shipped from a few places.

Another shock that I found after going off the information that I got from Zed254 is a Gabriel cab shock, part 83021. It's compressed/extended lengths are 7.37in/9.36in. This shock can also be gotten for around $40 shipped but it's much longer at compression. I'd rather go with the Monroe.

One major difference with these cab shocks are the shroud that covers the piston. I don't think that would get in the way of anything. The Monroe shock seems to have a smaller outer diameter than the Gabriel.

The only thing I can't seem to find information on is the ratings for the shocks themselves... that is probably the most important part. Maybe the intended 1844-2 is stiffer than the cab shocks?

Also found that Toledo surge brakes use a similar shock... part number 6700.
 
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Zed254

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Tinstar

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All this trying to get around from paying for the correct shock has been covered and discussed before many times.
The price is the price for the correct shock.
Croft Trailer has the lowest price.

Sure lots of shocks “look” close but there’s only one that’s designed to fit.
 

Zed254

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Tinstar: Thanks, I searched SS and found some good info.

Colt: take a look at this Titan shock: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T1242600.html . It's an actual trailer dampener shock, extend/collapse dimensions look good, but the bolt connections are not cushioned and are oversized when compared to the 7/16" of the 1844-2. Free shipping here: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Surge-Br...itan-Dico-Model-6-10-and-16-1242600/443722861 and shows connection ends as 5/8" and 7/8". Steel bushings for the Titan might get you there. This one is used on the M1101/M1102 trailers.
 
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CallMeColt

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Need a monotube shock for this application (horizontal position). https://iscsuspension-na.com/monotube-vs-twin-tube-difference-better/

I can't tell if the Gabriel is monotube, but I think it is twin tube due to mentioning gas toward bottom of page: http://gabriel.com/heavy-duty/products/fleetline/

745lb rebound / 315 compression: http://gabriel.com/product-search/heavy-duty-detailed-product-specs/?partnum=83021

Could not find rebound/compression data on OEM 1844-2
I ruled out the Gabriel after digging some more last night. Honestly can't remember why now but the twin tube is another reason to not go with it.

Tinstar: Thanks, I searched SS and found some good info.

Colt: take a look at this Titan shock: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T1242600.html . It's an actual trailer dampener shock, extend/collapse dimensions look good, but the bolt connections are not cushioned and are oversized when compared to the 7/16" of the 1844-2. Free shipping here: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Surge-Br...itan-Dico-Model-6-10-and-16-1242600/443722861 and shows connection ends as 5/8" and 7/8". Steel bushings for the Titan might get you there. This one is used on the M1101/M1102 trailers.
Great finds. I think the issue with the Titan shock is finding proper rubber bushings. Otherwise, it would work great I bet.
 

CallMeColt

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All this trying to get around from paying for the correct shock has been covered and discussed before many times.
The price is the price for the correct shock.
Croft Trailer has the lowest price.

Sure lots of shocks “look” close but there’s only one that’s designed to fit.
You're not wrong but that doesn't mean something else can't also work just as well with minor changes & ingenuity.
 
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CallMeColt

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I ordered the Monroe shock. Going to give it a try... guess I'll be the test dummy! Will document everything once I get it working or it doesn't work then post a post-op de-brief.

Hopefully this is be a much cheaper solution for those needing & that don't mind something slightly different.

I like being different!
 

Tinstar

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You're not wrong but that doesn't mean something else can't also work just as well with minor changes & ingenuity.
Brakes are something I don’t experiment with.
Of course it’s his trailer and he can do whatever he wants to rig it.
But if that trailer is ever involved in a fatal crash, regardless of fault, the brakes will be closely examined.
Wrong or modified part means a field day for the attorneys and cause for cancellation of insurance policy.
Gets worse after that.

The price for the part is going to seem like pennies then.


Good luck
 

CallMeColt

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Brakes are something I don’t experiment with.
Of course it’s his trailer and he can do whatever he wants to rig it.
But if that trailer is ever involved in a fatal crash, regardless of fault, the brakes will be closely examined.
Wrong or modified part means a field day for the attorneys and cause for cancellation of insurance policy.
Gets worse after that.

The price for the part is going to seem like pennies then.


Good luck
The curb weight on the trailer is 2200lbs with the generator. I weighed it. My truck is 9800lbs curb weight. If this doesn't work, I'll just bolt the brake lock & be done with it. I will only pull this trailer 800 miles a month tops on 2 trips.

This trailer doesn't need a brake on it at all... my best guess is the military plans for gross overloading of the trailer by troops. That combined with off road... the brake will help prevent issues. Remember, there's always room for one more!

I'd also figure that if the situation above were to really end up that serious, the lawyers wouldn't care about parts... they'd wonder why you were using a trailer that the military considered un-servicable & got rid of at auction over disassembling the trailer to look at a shock & the part number on that shock then say you modified a part on a trailer brake of a trailer that didn't need a brake on it according to DOT rules. They'd also probably go after the fact that the rear 3 red center lights or the 2 forward amber marking lights aren't on it like FMVSS 108 requires on trailers this size if you didn't put them on.

If we all worried about what lawyers could do to us all day, we'd probably go insane!
 

CallMeColt

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Alright so the Monroe shock came in yesterday.
64301784_2454303054798047_3208712943776563200_n.jpg65996243_877455569285398_5695278959806119936_n.jpg

Long story short... close but no cigar. Was worth the try!

The very difference in size for the mounting points gave me a hard time but could be done.
65761204_499698390802590_2890395978118987776_n.jpg65658311_744482882668748_8276698632783134720_n.jpg

I was able to force it onto the front mounting point but then quickly realized that the shroud would be in the way. Not really a big deal as it could be cut off & that's what I did as you can see in the above pictures.
65849887_692172257875201_4651243693720731648_n.jpg

Where it all fell apart was when I went to put it back together.

Hard to explain, but since the OEM shock had the slight tapers on the tube, it gave the slightest bit more room for the spring to let the pointed part that goes into the cylinder line up to go where it's supposed to. The slightly bigger mounting point up front also restricted it's movement. I tried for about an hour all kinds of different things to get it in with no luck. I think if the master cylinder was removed that it would be done that way... but I wasn't willing to go that far. Brakes are bled & working so I don't want to mess with that.

For the time being, I'm just going to keep the shock out & the pin in so the brakes are just locked out.
66281778_2702749133302341_3096530201891307520_n.jpg

May tackle it again to see if I can get it to work at some point. Might just order the expensive part if I get some other projects taken care of.

On a bright note, I'm a little closer to getting my tank! Once I get it mounted up, I need to decide if I want to go woodland with the stuff put on the trailer or sand with the trailer to make everything match....
 

CallMeColt

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So, when I was looking up all these parts, I found a cool solution for those that want to trailer to ride more level. Toledo Part number 10634.
Untitled.jpg

Can't seem to find it anywhere though. Might be a more cost effective solution for getting the trailer to ride level with multiple civilian or military vehicles & keep the tires that come with it.
 

mcii

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In my while reasonably short time as a SS member, this thread has been the most interesting and always moving thread. Colt is a sponge hound for a challenge and information equating to solving the situation and moving on. Just at the point the problem has reached a conclusion, up pops a new need or twist and off we go seeking and finding the solution.
best: mcii
 

CallMeColt

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In my while reasonably short time as a SS member, this thread has been the most interesting and always moving thread. Colt is a sponge hound for a challenge and information equating to solving the situation and moving on. Just at the point the problem has reached a conclusion, up pops a new need or twist and off we go seeking and finding the solution.
best: mcii
Thanks. Couldn't do it without the help here!
 
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