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M116A3 Fix-up & Conversion Thread

juanprado

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Oe manufacturer changed hands several times in the last few years....
Used to be $60.....
I don't remember anyone finding a substitute. Gabriel made some oe for balcrank/Toledo but not found in aftermarket.
 

Zed254

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Looks like you are kind of hard on equipment.....and I'm having a tough time understanding what part failed. I think these are Mendenhall brake actuators. What broke?

The vertical 'plate' on the lunette ring?
1585835025912.png
 

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zebedee

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Looks like you are kind of hard on equipment.....and I'm having a tough time understanding what part failed. I think these are Mendenhall brake actuators. What broke?

The vertical 'plate' on the lunette ring?
View attachment 794428
Wasn't me - came like that from DRMO 2 weeks ago. Lots had gotten clobbered inc front jack leg, hub cap missing, rear stabiliser bust, brake line crimped and split..... But yes, that's the part that got mangled.
.20200402_172234.jpg20200402_174756.jpg20200402_174817.jpg

Kinda got it straightened out - not too pretty but I think it will be fuctional.
I'll replace the nylon bushings and I 'spose I'll have to pony up for a Croft shock.

Yeah - I am scratching my head as to what went wrong. All I can think is that there was a heck of a shove backwards - that smashed the shock absorber guts, something was trapped in the front and as the unit was pushed back, it caught on the end of the vertical plate.

I reassembled the TM pic to see what I should get when trying to rebuild it.
M116 brake  assembled diag.png

What's the operating procedure for stopping the brakes coming on when the trailer is reversed?
 
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Lovetofix

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What's the operating procedure for stopping the brakes coming on when the trailer is reversed?
There is a hole through the tongue in front of the surge brake cylinder that you put a pin or a bolt through before you back up a hill, through soft dirt, over a log etc. I’ve not had mine apart, but I think that is what the hole is in the vertical plate you straightened. Backing up in a controlled manner on flat ground will not usually engage the brakes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

zebedee

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There is a hole through the tongue in front of the surge brake cylinder that you put a pin or a bolt through before you back up a hill, through soft dirt, over a log etc. I’ve not had mine apart, but I think that is what the hole is in the vertical plate you straightened. Backing up in a controlled manner on flat ground will not usually engage the brakes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That seems awfully "Heath Robinson" (cobbled together - can't remember the correct 'American' term). Wouldn't there be a 'bespoke' pin on a chain ? I looked in the TM but it's only for maintenance etc., not operation.
 

Bulldogger

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I'm thankful for this thread. Commisserations, yours looks slighty worse than the one I inherited as-is. My lunette is fully shoved rearward, no forward movement. Getting a Master Cylinder was easy and not expensive, but I am not looking forward to all the other bits that must be smashed. The parts details in this thread will be helpful. Thank-you.
BDGR
 

reset2

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Just for your information there is a whole discussion on the shock in the hitch over at
M116A3 Fix-up & Conversion Thread
 

zebedee

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One is the rear kickstand. Since I put smaller tires on, it is to long to be useful really! I took it off to see if I could just unscrew the foot all the way & have it machined down a few inches. Apparently, it can't be done... at least by hand. Didn't dig much farther yet.
Colt - I just found this thread. I had to rebuild the rear support leg on my M116A3 - don't see a big issue in cutting it down for the smaller tyres. All I'd do is punch out the roll pin, separate the two halves, cut off enough to make it the right height for you. Re drill new roll pin hole, reassemble, done.
 

zebedee

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Just for your information there is a whole discussion on the shock in the hitch over at
M116A3 Fix-up & Conversion Thread

Thanks. Have written on there about a post that I may be able to assist with.
 

CallMeColt

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Colt - I just found this thread. I had to rebuild the rear support leg on my M116A3 - don't see a big issue in cutting it down for the smaller tyres. All I'd do is punch out the roll pin, separate the two halves, cut off enough to make it the right height for you. Re drill new roll pin hole, reassemble, done.
Thanks for letting me know. I did end up just cutting it with it all together & welded a foot on. If I decide to make it a bit cleaner in the future, I will punch the roll pin out as you pointed out. :)
 

zebedee

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More mods and fixes. Fender cracks, hitch spring washer, tethered reverse pin....
20200419_113041.jpg20200419_113525.jpg
Had the fenders off so that I can space them away from the frame - needed an extra 1/8" to get the compressor base in between them.
20200419_113056.jpg
Tad of an interference fit. Spacing the fenders out 1/8" will also save the "blowing" effect of any rust.
20200419_113118.jpg
This is the overall project - 3 phase f'off compressor and MEP003 genny. Space in between for all the blasting hoses, pot and gear.20200420_113930.jpg20200420_113933.jpg
Don't like all this slack. Caused a little interference with the damper end so I thought I'd build up the top side of the slot to keep it centered on the spring.
20200420_115052.jpg20200420_115348.jpg
Assembled loosely on the outside of the hitch - I needed to hold it secure while spreading the damper yoke following the massively damaged inner parts.
20200420_142037.jpg20200420_142133.jpg
Forged a reversing pin, made the flip toggle from a piece of Sawzall blade. Just so happened to find a small 1/4" threaded hole in the hitch to bolt the other end of the chain too.
 
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CallMeColt

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My past weekend trip with the trailer, I noticed a grinding noise when coasting & more so when slowing down. Thinking it may be worn brakes or sand got in there. Will need to dig in once I get some time. Also, I need to repack the wheel bearings.

Also made some brackets for the fuel tank. I hadn't thought of it but over time the tabs were bending from the weight.
95374967_542472403058830_5711894268423962624_n.jpg 96086898_292095928619366_2420624154773422080_ndfgsdfg.jpg 95404079_257068169004695_643490820833411072_ndfgggdggdg.jpg
 

CallMeColt

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Decided to re-pack the bearings & investigate that grinding noise. Right side brake shoes came apart! Going to get parts & finish up when I have them.

Left side was all good to go. Completely repacked & brakes adjusted nicely. Seals were good.

I'm documenting everything on video to add to my YouTube page as the trailer & generator repairs have gotten good traffic.

99105037_3079304058824513_7847583442307907584_n.jpg 100757715_854765771686505_9120579433508372480_n.jpg
 

CallMeColt

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Well, rebuilding the brakes on the right side wasn't fun! Finally got to it. There were a bunch of videos already on YouTube on replacing & repairing sure brakes since Dexter has a lot of them on boat trailers.

There are some differences though & I did make a quick video talking about them;
 

CallMeColt

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After dragging my feet in installing it, I put the Pulsar solar battery maintainer on.

Mounted the panel on the fuel tank because I wanted it to charge even when the cover is on the generator.

Did the best I could to cleanly route the wires in safe areas.

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Panel is making 32v in full sun.

I didn't notice the red LED on the control box lighting up in the sun. I hope it is working as it should!
 
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