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Operating instructions for a M45 a2 530b

2deuce

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I would like to know the correct procedure for pumping water from the tank. I have it full of water and want to see what happens. I want to make sure I do everything in the correct step. Something as simple as switching from road to pump I'm not sure about. Next weekend I'll be up there again, but I still don't have any hose. Thanks
 

fasttruck

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Star the pump by placing the transfer case in neutral, the transmission in 4th gear and engage the power takeoff for the pump which is in the left rear corner of the cab behind the handbrake. There should be a handle mon the pump panel designated "tank to "pump." Pull this out to admit the tank water into the pump. The booster tank is filled by the rear step just under the hose bed. Don't run the pump for any extended period of time without water in it. There should be some activity on the master gauge when the pump gets water. OpDSC_0045_0046.jpgen a discharge valve and pump until the tank runs dry. I think it holds 300 gallons. TMs for these are rare as there were not as many in service as cargo trucks and the Army bought bare chassis from Kaiser and had a vendor install the fire fighting equipment on it so the pubs relating to the pump probably came from the vendor.DSC_0041_0050.jpg
 

fasttruck

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I found incrementally better pics of the pump panel. There 3 versions of the M530 and the pump panels are not identical. The "tank suction valve" appears and the right nor rear side of the pump panel in the top row of valve handles.DSC_0002_0089.jpgDSC_0044_0047.jpg
 

fasttruck

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Reference is made to post 3: the differences on the pump panel layout is because the one on the left is a Waterous brand pump and the one on the right is a Hale. I believe the pumps are rated at 500 gpm at draft at 150 pounds discharge pressure. 4.5" hard suction lines are required to draft. I think the government used national standard threads. If you live in an area with freezing weather make sure you drain all the water out of the tank and the pump to prevent damage from freezing.
 

fasttruck

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There is a gallon tank in the cab under the passenger's seat for priming oil to prime the pump if it is not tied into a hydrant which takes OE30.
 

2deuce

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portland, oregon
These are the panels on my truck. I don't remember a lever in the cab for the pump. I think mine is the road and pump handle. So I can move that road and pump handle with the engine running and the TC in neutral. Once in pump setting, I put the transmission in 4th and let out the clutch. I do this after I open tank water to pump. Thanks
 

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fasttruck

Well-known member
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Location
Mesa, AZ
The tank to pump valve control is probably the unmarked handle in the upper right corner of the pump panel. The data plate to the right of the steamer tells the tale on the capacity of the pump. Maximum capacity is taken at 150 pounds discharge pressure. This is a Hale Pump. Attached is a pic of the pump engagement lever in the cab but I believe this is a Waterous thing. In the Army the fire service is a creature of the Corps of Engineers.M530C pump PTO control.jpgMODEL N5630 FIRE TRUCKS 06.23.2011 014.jpg At different times I have seen M530s painted white, red, lime green, olive drab and and forest green camouflage.
 

jasonjc

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Gravette Ar.
I'll look when I get home for the TM #'s but they are out there. I got one from the local library and copied it. BUt must of mine are for the 530C. Get the pump serial number and call Hale (if its a Hale pump) they can get you a tm for it. Mine is a waterous and they sent me a 3 ring binder with all the pump info.
 

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2deuce

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portland, oregon
I appreciate the info. I don't want anything to go wrong. I know not to run the pump without water, but not how it should be started. I'm sure it has been years since the truck has operated. I'm hoping the pump is still good, because the drain valve had a large crack in it from freezing. It was used where it can get very cold at times(-20 or so) but now here in western oregon, winters are generally mild, but I will drain everything just in case.
 

fasttruck

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Mesa, AZ
If the pump hasn't been used in a long time the packing in the bearings for the impeller has likely dried out and will leak. This will have to be renewed. The bearings are lubricated in part by the water passing through it. The ball valves governing the pump intake and discharges will also probably leak. If they are not scored up too bad they can be assisted by an application of STP or WD40. As mentioned in post 8 you can probably get a technical manual and parts book from Hale Pump as they are still in business. There is a society for the preservation of antique fire apparatus who may be of assistance in furnishing tech info on pump restoration. Another challenge will be to get the gauges working again as they are probably stuck. As the pump mechanicals are exposed to water they do not fair well with long periods of inactivity.
 

fasttruck

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Location
Mesa, AZ
Reference post 9:You hope all that is cracked is the drain valve. The pump definitely will not draft if the various valves and the drain are not air tight so in order to get it run at all will require a pressurized water source( hydrant). Check out re runs of "Fantom Works" on cable TV as they restored a 1940s Mack to include getting the fire pump to work and their problems and solutions may parallel yours.
 

2deuce

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Location
portland, oregon
I'm guessing the pump hasn't been used in 5 years. The valve that was cracked was on the bottom of the tank. The tank holds water now. I thought I could pump from the tank. If the pump draws air from somewhere that would be bad. I wanted to use the truck as a wildland type fire truck. I think that is how it was last used. There is no pressurized water source, this is an off-grid cabin. I know that 400 gal won't last long with a 500 gpm pump, but I thought I could run a smaller hose and not run it all out in seconds. I do have a creek on the property and a large trash pump to refill with, along with a M49 that another volunteer FD used as brush truck, but they kept the pump. I had visions of connecting them and thought I could if I pumped less volume. I thought the truck pumped a maximum of 500 GPM and if I kept the RPM down I could still obtain pressure with less GPM. I do need good gauges so I know what the truck is doing. I would like to do a few tests. First one being to see if it works at all.
I will be contacting Hale. Sometimes it can take awhile for a response.

Thanks
 

jasonjc

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Gravette Ar.
Just found PDF's for TM 5-4210-213-12 , TM 5-4210-213-24P and TM 5-4210-213-35 for the M530B and just uploaded them to the TM section here.
 

jasonjc

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283
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Location
Gravette Ar.
As long as the pump and truck has all the valves in good shape, no air leaks. You can pump from the tank or creek or M49. For the creek you will need to use the priming pump. You can also fill the tank with the pump from the creek.
 
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