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Thread: more electrical power out of a cucv system

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    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    Default more electrical power out of a cucv system

    just looking at ideas for more electrical power, I was checking on alternators and have found replacements for the 27si that can go to 200 amps or more.
    They don't have isolated grounds so it does not help to get more 24v power but could provide more 12v power without sacraficing any of the 24v capacity.

    If you replaced the drivers side alt. with a 200 amp unit and then split the output, one leg going to the passenger side alt to produce the potential 100 amps of 24 volt power
    The second leg could go to the 12volt terminal block to which you would also connect an additonal battery (remove the connection from the front 24v battery)
    This would give you a seperated 12volt system and allow total capacity of 100A @ 24v and 100A @ 12v. yes you would have 3 battteries.
    This would also keep your 24v batteries equal to each other and get rid of the unbalanced battery situation.

    I have not been able to find alts that have isolated grounds to replace the passenger side but if you can remove the 12v load to its own system you can utilize all 100 amps @ 24v. I would keep the starter and glow plugs on the 24 volt side but everything else can go to the 12v block

    I realize the alts would not be interchangeable from side to side but that is not a big concern for me.

    The cs130d can be built to output 200 amps and apparently you can get a special built ad244 that will do more than 300 amps
    I don't need that much on the 12 volt side but if I can take all 100 amps of 24 volt power to an inverter that should power my AC unit.

    the cs130d also provides 80% of its output at idle and 100% at high idle. not sure about the 27si output at idle still searching.

    I welcome those with more electrical experience than me to help shoot holes in this setup.
    Thanks
    Rich
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

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    Colonel reloader64's Avatar
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    A few (somewhat esoteric) questions come to mind.....

    Will the belts slip under full load? And, will the engine idle under full load?

    Serious question now-what will you be using 200-300 amps for?

    Scott
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    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    looking to get all 100 amps out of the 24 volt system to go into an inverter for electric ac unit.
    and 100 amps at 12 volt to run the truck 12 volt items. should not need all 100 amps at 12 volt unless i put a serious stereo system and that is not the plan

    so using a 200 amp 12 volt alt. and the 100 amp isolated ground alt, you would get 100 amps at 24v and 100 amps at 12v.
    you might get some belt slippage on the 200 amp 12volt unit but the 24 volt alt would be the stock cucv alt

    the engine should not have any issues. not any different than putting a ac compressor with the two alts.
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

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    You can get a 24v alt with high output amps. No need for isolated ground. Keep the 12v alt that ties to vehicle ground. The 24v alt runs the AC and tops off both batteries while the 12v alt supplies the 12v system and provides any charging the lower battery needs that isn't provided by the 24v alt.

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    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    does the 24v alt fit the cucv alternator mounts and will it work on a v belt. i looked at some but they were serpentine belt and much bigger.
    I know the cucv amulances ran the rear ac off of an alt so i was wanting to get more info on that system.
    thanks for the constructive input
    rich
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

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    Found this link for a 22SI @ 24V. http://www.delcoremy.com/find-a-part...tails/19020382

    Supposedly the 22SI is a physical drop in replacement for a 27SI except for isolated ground. That link shows a 28SI @ 24v @ 110amp as an upgrade. No clue on pulley and double check rotation direction. Maybe a alternator shop has a 28SI core you could borrow for fitment experimentation.

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    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=551

    this is one I have considered. I need to stay with two twelve volt alternators. If I were to put in a 24 volt and keep one twelve volt it puts more stress on the belts. If I had a serpentine system It would not be a problem. Using two twelve volt alts allows me to split the load between two belts instead of putting a heavy load on one and very little load on the other.
    The drivers side alt will have more load, it will have half of the 24V load along with all of the 12 Volt load where as the passenger side will only have half of the 24v load.
    If I have all led lights then the 12volt load will be fairly small. With just the ac running, the 24v load should be about 60% of the 24V capacity when the compressor is running. I think a 200 amp 12Volt alt on the drivers side and the 100 amp 27si on the passenger side is all that will be needed.
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

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    4 Star General MarcusOReallyus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richingalveston View Post
    just looking at ideas for more electrical power, I was checking on alternators and have found replacements for the 27si that can go to 200 amps or more.
    They don't have isolated grounds so it does not help to get more 24v power

    The isolation can be added to most alternators.


    Quote Originally Posted by richingalveston View Post
    If you replaced the drivers side alt. with a 200 amp unit and then split the output, one leg going to the passenger side alt to produce the potential 100 amps of 24 volt power
    The second leg could go to the 12volt terminal block to which you would also connect an additonal battery (remove the connection from the front 24v battery)

    What do you mean, "split the output"? Electrically, this makes no sense.
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    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    splitting the output of the drivers side alt by taking it to the 12 volt terminal block (it actually already goes there) and add a seperate 12 volt battery then also feeding it into the second alt (which it already does).

    Therefore you can take a 200 amp 12volt alt. on the drivers side and have 100 amps available for the 12 volt bus and third battery (basicly all of the 12 volt items in the truck) and the other 100 amps available for the second alt wich then would give you the full 100 amps of 24volt power when needed and 100 amps of 12 volt power when needed.

    Of course you remove the feed to the 12 volt bus from the first battery in the 24 volt system. You would also have 3 batteries.

    By doing this you would have a true 100 amps of 24v and an additional 100 amps of 12 volt power instead of the current situation where you loose 1 amp of 24volt capacity with each amp of 12 volt power you use.

    All that is needed to accomplish this is wire in a third battery to the 12 volt terminal block (neg going to 24v neg bus bar) and replacing the drivers side alt with one that can produce 200 amps at 12 volt.
    This would also keep the 24volt batteries balanced.
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

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    4 Star General ken's Avatar
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    There are 24Volt inverters out there. I got a used one a few years back that is a 3000W. Its can easily run my 8000BTU window unit I have for the sliding rear window of my 1028. My window unit is only 850W. I wired it to the 24V buss on the firewall behind the batteries. I mounted the inverter behind the seat so the AC could plug in easily. I installed a VDO voltage gauge in place of the original and It never drops below 28V even when the AC kicks on. Even at 12V a stock 27SI would be 1200W. But mine put out 14.6V each. So In theory it would be 1460W. Multiply that times two at your at 2920W. More than enough power to run the truck/lights and almost any window unit AC. Now I do realize this is the redneck way of installing a AC in a CUCV but is sure works good. You might check into roof mounted AC for industrial equipment. Most are 24V and you could bypass a lot of work that way. There are units that are self contained so all you need to do is cut the hole in the roof and run the wires to the 24Vbuss on the firewall.
    Kenny
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