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Thread: New To Me Engine, Won't Start

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    Default New To Me Engine, Won't Start

    M1009. I removed the motor due to an issue with the block. It ran perfect.
    I bought a long block. I was told it had 9x000 miles on it and was running fine when removed.
    I inspected the bottom end, made sure everything went around like it should and felt like it should. Everything seems fine.
    The engine will not start.
    The timing gear "dots" are lined up.
    The IP was taken off my old motor and was working great.
    It's been bleed by the book.
    It's getting fuel to the cylinders.
    The glow plugs are getting juice and ohm out to 1.5 ohms.
    The IP timing mark is lined up with the mark on the engine.
    I cannot even get it to start by putting diesel in the manifold or spraying ether.
    There is no smoke when cranking.
    All I can think is its an internal timing issue, but I cannot imagine what. The engine was not taken apart.
    Going back over my other thread, a poster said that there's a round and an oblong hole on the IP gear.
    I guess if no better ideas, I'll check that tomorrow.
    Any help appreciated, I'd really like to get on the road again. I'm going insane.
    There is a pic of the gears in my other thread here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...t=#post2209764
    Last edited by helobravo; 06-20-2019 at 00:25.

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    4 Star General MarcusOReallyus's Avatar
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    Compression test.
    ---------------------

    Non standard parts in CUCV?
    You offend against the pure OEM design!
    Evaluate self! Reflect and repent!

    Or... maybe not.

    M1028, M101A2

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    4 Star General cucvrus's Avatar
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    The engine will not start on starting fluid only. Pouring diesel down the intake will not start the engine either. The heat glow plugs and sprayed fuel will ignite the engine. I think you have air in the system. Start at the fuel filter and go forward from there. Open all the nuts on the delivery nozzles and crank the engine over with the glow plugs out until you see 8 wet nozzle nuts. tighten the nozzle nuts. Get the glow plugs operational and attempt to fire up the engine. The heated glow plugs and the sprayed fuel should be all you need to get it started. Without glow plugs or fuel nothing is going to happen. Stop spraying either. Bad deal. Good Luck Be Safe.
    To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead. Thomas Paine: Founding Father Quote.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cucvrus View Post
    The engine will not start on starting fluid only. Pouring diesel down the intake will not start the engine either. The heat glow plugs and sprayed fuel will ignite the engine. I think you have air in the system. Start at the fuel filter and go forward from there. Open all the nuts on the delivery nozzles and crank the engine over with the glow plugs out until you see 8 wet nozzle nuts. tighten the nozzle nuts. Get the glow plugs operational and attempt to fire up the engine. The heated glow plugs and the sprayed fuel should be all you need to get it started. Without glow plugs or fuel nothing is going to happen. Stop spraying either. Bad deal. Good Luck Be Safe.
    Thanks for the reply. I've bled the system and purged any air out of the filter. I am getting fuel to the nuts. A couple of tries with ether was just a last ditch effort to get it to crank.

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    I’d pull the glow plugs and turn it over. Should be spewing little clouds of diesel mist out of the glow plug holes.

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    All lines are squirting fuel. With plugs out I have diesel mist. The glow plugs are getting 12 volts. I don't get it. It's Corona time......

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    4 Star General MarcusOReallyus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by helobravo View Post
    I bought a long block. I was told blah blah blah blah
    And your point is?

    Compression test.

    You have fuel you have crank. What's missing? Heat. It's either GPs or you don't have enough compression.
    ---------------------

    Non standard parts in CUCV?
    You offend against the pure OEM design!
    Evaluate self! Reflect and repent!

    Or... maybe not.

    M1028, M101A2

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    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    if you cannot find a compression test tool, I have one. I am out of town until Monday but I can mail it to you. it has an adaptor that goes in the glow plug hole. you test it with the starter and the glow plugs out.
    install the tool, connect gauge and turn it over a couple times to get a reading on the gauge.
    do this for all cylinders.
    I seriously doubt it is a compression issue. In order for compression to not start the truck it would have to have no compression in more than half of the cylinders or very bad compression in all of the cylinders. even then it would stumble and fire on the good cylinders.
    you can feel compression with your thumb over the glow plug hole. you cannot tell if it is good but you know it is there. just tells you the crank or piston connecting rods are not broke.
    most likely the ip is not timed properly.
    if the dots on the cam gear and crank gear were not lined up you would have valves hitting the cylinders,
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

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    4 Star General cucvrus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by helobravo View Post
    All lines are squirting fuel. With plugs out I have diesel mist. The glow plugs are getting 12 volts. I don't get it. It's Corona time......
    Glow plugs that are dead can get 12 volts. While you have the glow plugs out check them with a short wire and a battery. Only a split second if you ground the threads of the glow plug to the wire on negative and touch the spade on the positive. Put a drop of oil on each one. It will make smoke in a split second if they are working. Do not glow them long. I have had them blow out. Not good. I think getting an eyeball on them beats every other method out there. It takes about 15 minutes to remove a set 10 minutes to test them and 15 minutes to put them back in. good Luck. Next report should be "I have it running". Have a Great Weekend. I am off for the weekend and enjoying other activities.
    To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead. Thomas Paine: Founding Father Quote.

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    I was going over everything again today, to adjust IP timing marks one more time. I noticed I do have an issue with the IP.
    Please don't be a stickler for terms...I looked in the TM and couldn't find the correct term for the part I'm going to post about.
    On the passenger side, the lever that pushes in the "button" close to the bottom of the pump it not making contact with the "button" even when throttle is wide open. I compared it to a fresh rebuilt pump I got with the long block and it's definitely wrong. I am in the process of switching pumps now.
    Thanks for useful input! I did order a compression tester....I have other old diesels and have needed one in the past, so even though I don't think it's compression, I'll have one.

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