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Thread: New To Me Engine, Won't Start

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by richingalveston View Post
    what method are you using to do a compresion test. you need to pull the ip wire, pull all glow plugs so you can get good speed on the starter and then test one cylinder at a time. make sure the injectors are torqued to the right spec and have the washers in place. the engine should only need about 5 or 6 revolutions for each cylinder test. each cylinder should give you about 425 to 435 psi.
    I think the guy screwed me on the engine. Plugs out, compression under 250 on first 3 cylinders I tested.
    I decided to drown my sorrows over lunch and took a break.
    I don't understand why I do not have signs of blow by.
    Last edited by helobravo; 07-21-2019 at 13:50.

  2. #22
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    Fair enough never ever did a compression test on a warm up engine lol always cold cause generally the problem was can not start but... 220 is very low however you could have washed the cylinders... put some oil down each glow plug hole and then turn it over plugs out.

    It also sounds in the vid to be turning very slow to me... slow turn = lower compression, check your batteries, check your starter, check your connections.

    Sorry for the crappy vid but I am alone lol... IP wire removed else it would have started in like... 1 revolution. Your vid again sounds slow and like it is trying to hit off but... with out making enough RPM you won't get the motor to fire. Maybe you have have bad batteries or a bad starter.


  3. #23
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    I did get more RPM out of it with starting box hooked up and plugs out. I would say close to your video speed.
    I just went out and took readings off 6 cylinders.
    They are off enough that I didn't bother with 7 and 8 since my testing adapter is so long, it would be a pain in the ass for nothing.
    Pressures are: 1-240 3-240 5-220 2-200 4-190 6-210
    If I bought a bad motor, I can live with that. I want to move on,
    It is hard to say "the heck with it" and give up, but it looks like that's what I need to do.
    Anyone have any last thoughts?
    Can I hone and re-ring this motor or is that a waste of time? I know my way around a gasoline SBC but never freshened up a diesel.
    Thanks all.

  4. #24
    4 Star General MarcusOReallyus's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear you got ripped off.

    Any recourse with the seller? (Other than posting his name here, of course.)
    ---------------------

    Non standard parts in CUCV?
    You offend against the pure OEM design!
    Evaluate self! Reflect and repent!

    Or... maybe not.

    M1028, M101A2

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcusOReallyus View Post
    Sorry to hear you got ripped off.

    Any recourse with the seller? (Other than posting his name here, of course.)
    I cannot find a trace of our communication.
    I spoke to this gut about 10 times at least and texted locations and what not.
    He's out of state, I drove 2 hours to meet him half way.
    It's not like I can do anything to him, I'd just like to know if he intentionally screwed me or not.
    The IP and injectors were rebuilt with the re builders card in the box. I don't think the guy ever actually ran the motor.
    At least I have two working IP and injectors to sell if I can't hone the motor.
    I'm sick of looking at it. I don't know what I'm going to do.

  6. #26
    Former SSG 98G's Avatar
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    I know ether is a bad idea in these engines, but....

    Starting with a cold engine and glowplugs disconnected, crank it and give it a brief squirt. Just to see....

    Edit- oops, I went back and now see you already did this.

    Edit again - I would think ether would ignite at the 200 compression measured. Anything coming out the exhaust? Perhaps the valves aren't opening....
    Last edited by 98G; 07-21-2019 at 16:47.

  7. #27
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    There’s a guy on YouTube from Alabama who could not get his M1008 to start.
    Tried everything.
    Finally he poured some transmission fluid down each intake opening. No clue on amounts.
    Then using a shop rag soaked in gasoline, laid the rag flat over the intake.
    Cranked a few times and it finally started.
    Smoked like crazy for a bit.

    Most of this unusual method was not shown in the video, but explained later.

    Worth a try?

    Just a thought.
    1987 M1008A1 (2)
    1986 M1009
    1995 NF2D FloodLight/Kohler-Kubota Generator Set
    1992 M101A2 trailer (2)
    S-280 Shelter

  8. #28
    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    before you pull the engine, you need to pull the heads and check the head gaskets. if you put either in it, you could very easily have blown the head gaskets out.
    Rich
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  9. #29
    4 Star General cucvrus's Avatar
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    Before pulling the heads to check the head gaskets get a good reliable mechanic to pressure test the cooling system. If the head gaskets are blown and leaking it will NOT hold pressure. We had a 6.2 diesel for over 20 years that was a 1984 K30 cab chassis plow truck previously with the state of Pennsylvania. We started it everyday with a squirt of starting fluid. Never blew the head gaskets. The wiring was all messed up and a manual glow plug switch was all cobbled. I started it first thing every morning it was needed with magic spray. The frame rotted in half and the engine was transplanted in another plow truck. Hard to tell from afar what is going on but a lot of good tips were given here to help you out. And before you jump to conclusions that the head gaskets are blown because it don't hold pressure make sure the cooling system is 100% tight. Radiator, heater core, hoses, manifold gaskets. Everything on the cooling system. If the head gaskets are blown it will NOT hold pressure. With the glow plugs removed it may be possible to hear the leaking cylinder. Good Luck.
    To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead. Thomas Paine: Founding Father Quote.

  10. #30
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    Don’t waste your time on having a mechanic pressure test the cooling system. If the head gaskets are blown to the cooling passages, you would get coolant in the exhaust. Possible to have head gasket blown bore to bore. Pull the heads. If it’s a head gasket your going to have to do so any ways. Inspect the pistons and boresideof the heads. Turn the engine over by hand with heads off. Make sure all the pistons come to TDC and BDC.

    Yes you can hone the bores and re-ring. A piston engine is a piston engine. The only thing different between a gas and Diesel engine is the “combustion chamber” and the ignition source, besides for the parts that make a Diesel engine typically are beefier than a gasser. If your going that far to hone and ring it, personally I would align hone the cam bore, crank bore and mains, install new bearings; freshin er up. Maybe even throw some performance goodies at it.

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