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MEP-802A/M116A3 setup with NEMA plug

Sgt Jiggins

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Hello All,

Just came into a MEP-802A mounted on a M116A3. Done all the mods, filters, fluids. A Huge Thank You to LITD, GuyFang, Daybreak,and kloppk for all the assistance and knowledge poured out into this forum that made that all possible.

I'm soon to install the wifi remote start kit I got from kloppk. (Very nice kit for any on the fence, btw). Which has me thinking I'd like to have some kind of NEMA-type plug somewhere on the M116A3 so that I can roll up to the house and just plug the MEP-802A up to a socket on the wall that feeds an ATS (and then the house).

With the NEMA plug, I'd like to leave the existing terminals on the MEP-802A as-is so that I can use the generator as-intended by the military too in case I need to put it to work somewhere that doesn't have the same plug setup as my house.

I am aware of the need to ground the unit when used as intended. And the need to remove the grounding bar when hooking to the house ground. I'm ok with both of those. Any other practical considerations/advice/experience shared in this endeavor would be much appreciated.

Regards,
SJ/JD
 

rcamacho

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Interested in a similar setup. I’ve been debating installing a Nema plug for a typical portable generator to an interlock breaker feed at the panel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

pjwest03

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A Hubbell HBL2620SW fits in almost perfectly where the canvas sleeve is on the cable exit. That's a NEMA 4 rated L6-30R with a latching cover.
 

Light in the Dark

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The HBL2620SW is only three legs, the NEMA L14-30 style has 4 legs on it, which is what you would need for the MEP to tie to a house (two hot legs, one neutral, one ground). There are many ways to skin a cat, but for a casual user, who is probably going to tie into a twist lock panel, it makes more sense to stay with the L14-30.
 

Sgt Jiggins

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The above link suggests the Hubbell HBL2710SW is the L14-30.

I'm going to have an qualified electrician wire mine up. But at least I will understand what is going on with it if I ever need to troubleshoot.

Thank you!
 

Light in the Dark

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Once you find the plug you like, its just 4 wires. You look at the pin out from the plug manufacturer, and run lines from the appropriate lugs on the plug, to the appropriate lugs on the genset. Its like a 10 minute job, including mounting the panel plug up. But definitely if outside your comfort level, pay a pro... just know its a real easy job.
 

Light in the Dark

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The manufacturer makes it easy... Ground is the bent tab blade, the neutral (white) is across from it. The two hot legs are X and Y. You feel comfortable enough matching up 4 colored wires, and using a screw driver? If so, you can do this job. Not trying to make light of it... just showing how easy it really is.

plug pins.jpg
 

Coug

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It's easy enough to wire it for the L14-30 then having a couple of adapters to common outlet types made up and stored with the unit. Either that or wire up multiple cables off the military terminals so you can just pick and choose which you want to use for any situation. Most likely though you'll only need L14-30, L14-20, and multiples of the 120V outlets. Personally I just keep a spare 14-20 plug end I can wire on if I need it, and have a 120V 4 plug cable with a 14-30 plug on the end to match up what I have wired to the generator already.
If you're around Home Depot a lot, just check in at their wire isle regularly. Occasionally you'll find some marked down cables that will work for your needs to make cheap generator cables. I think I got a 15 foot chunk of 8-3 for 75% off one time, made a main cable and a couple adapters from it.
 
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