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Thread: mep 004a no fault lights working plus more

  1. #111
    Colonel KLChurch's Avatar
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    I tried with a four foot cheater to unscrew the NPT pipe thread and it is still very difficult to unscrew. Got maybe a 20th of a turn.
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

  2. #112
    Colonel KLChurch's Avatar
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    Repeat this test, with S2 on and S7 on. We are losing VDC someplace

    with the battle on and the run on both #9 and #7 gets volts.

    Kris.







    Murphy is my friend

  3. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLChurch View Post
    I tried with a four foot cheater to unscrew the NPT pipe thread and it is still very difficult to unscrew. Got maybe a 20th of a turn.
    Kris
    When that happens use something like PB Blaster for a few hours or overnight to assist in penetrating stuck threads etc. to help free & reduce the friction. Even a few drops of light weight oil or diesel on the threads might help if you don't have any penetrating oil lying around. I've even resorted to using things like heat guns/hair dryers and ice cubes (expand the outer threads a few thousandth's and shrink the inner threads) when I need to break the friction bond.
    #1 House Gen PU-751/M: 1986 MEP-002a/M116A2 w/Aux Tank & OEM cover
    #2 Spare Gen PU-751/M: 1991 MEP-002a/M116A2 w/Aux Tank & OEM cover
    #3 Shop/Barn Gen NF-2 Enclosure: 19?? MEP-002a w/Aux Tank

    * Disclaimer - My comments on this forum are based on my opinion and my experiences only. Any information or suggestions I share could sometimes be inaccurate or misinterpreted. It is your responsibility to verify any information before using or to hire a professional.

  4. #114
    Colonel KLChurch's Avatar
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    Ok so I will unscrew the NPT. I will let it soak over night. The best even better than BP blaster is 50% acetone and 50% automatic trans fluid. Cheaper too.
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

  5. #115
    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLChurch View Post
    Repeat this test, with S2 on and S7 on. We are losing VDC someplace

    with the battle on and the run on both #9 and #7 gets volts.

    Kris.


    This is good!






    This is good!

  6. #116
    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLChurch View Post
    Having difficulty taking the float out of the day tank. Unscrewed the connector. Then unscrewed the four bolts that held in the other side of the connector, but it does not want to come out. Do not try and pull out the contacts! Yes you have to unscrew the 2 7/8 pipe threaded portion to get the float out. Do I have to unscrew the approx 2 7/8 pipe thread to get the float out? If so it will take a long time and a lot of torque.
    Kris
    Scan_0001.pdfHere is the picture. Its possible to do these tests with the float in the tank. BUT, if the fuel pumps are not able to fill up the tank, then the tests will not work. And I like to pull the float anyway, as often there are "surprises" in there. Like the floats have been ate up by JP8. Or the magnets have fallen out. Or "extra" floats are in the tank.

  7. #117
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    Will be trying to unscrew the pipe threaded part in an hour.
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

  8. #118
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    Got her unscrewed. Inside looks clean. 3/4 full. However just for the **** of it I turned on the battle and run to get the pumps working and they started without the float installed. Also looked inside where the pump input line enters the day take. No fuel entering the tank. but when I drain the first filter the pumps go wild still no fuel to the day tank. Also I dont know if the float has to be installed with the wiring for the electrical valve to let the fuel to enter the day tank.
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

  9. #119
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    Tested the float per your specs. It has two floats. Everything works like your troubleshooting.
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

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  11. #120
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    float mep004.jpg

    Here is the float pic
    Murphy is my friend

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