mep 004a no fault lights working plus more

Jumped A&B and no low fuel pressure light , only low oil pressure. Test mode low fuel pressure lit up.
Jumped C&D and no fuel pumps on in run mode.
Kris

Solder worked perfectly for the size holes in the connector.
Kris

KLChurch said:

Jumped A&B and no low fuel pressure light , only low oil pressure. Test mode low fuel pressure lit up.
Jumped C&D and no fuel pumps on in run mode.
Kris

Click to expand...

Take the wires off pins 23/24 and 21 on the A5 card. This isolates the CR6 diode. Test the the Diode with your ohms meter. Continuity one way, none the other?

EDIT!!
The hand written K8 next to the relay, on the sheet I attached, is wrong. It should be K5 coil. The schematics are a mess!

OK it will take me several hours to do so.
Kris

Guyfang said:

Take the wires off pins 23/24 and 21 on the A5 card. This isolates the CR6 diode. Test the the Diode with your ohms meter. Continuity one way, none the other?

EDIT!!
The hand written K8 next to the relay, on the sheet I attached, is wrong. It should be K5 coil. The schematics are a mess!

Click to expand...

Got both ways continuity
There was no wire connected to pin 23

Checked again and only one way. Don't know how I got both ways but I had to scrape the coating off the wires to the diode then I got better readings.

Kris

KLChurch said:

Got both ways continuity
There was no wire connected to pin 23

The reason I said 23/24 is because the pins should be common, linked together. You can hook the wire to one or the other.

Checked again and only one way. Don't know how I got both ways but I had to scrape the coating off the wires to the diode then I got better readings.

Did you check at the pins? or at the wires that go to the Diode. Always check at the pins, as there can be a problem with how the diode is hooked to the pin. Like if a pin/wire connection got to hot, solder could run out of the connection.

Kris

Click to expand...

.

I checked it at the diode. Will check at the pins and report back in a couple mins.
Kris

Checked it at the pins and only one way.
Kris

Lets try something new.

Hook everything up. Don't have to put the bottom of the SP/relay box on, just hook up the plugs. Then put her in run mode, with the S7 in the up position.

Then, when the pumps run for a while, say 5 min, crack the bleeder nut on the secondary filter. Let out air. If you see bubbles, you still got air. When you got nothing but fuel, turn off S7.

Try and start the set. You can crank it 10-15 seconds, or a bit longer and its not going to hurt the starter. Lets see if it will start.

OK
It will take me some time put it back together and try to start it.
Kris

Ok, I will see if I can stay up a bit longer. So long as the war department is snoring on the couch, I am golden!!

Hooked everything back together. Used battle to fill up the day tank.
Bled the lines and no air.
Tried to start and no start with battle off.
Kris

You tried it several times?

Until the batteries ran down
Have to charge them back up
kris

Ok. Shout at you in the morning.

Thanks good night
Kris

KLChurch said:

I cant believe I graduated to sergeant major. So I get a promotion for being a pupil?Kris

Click to expand...

This MEP-004 has taken you into battle! The way this thread is going (26 pages & counting) you will be battle proven before its over & might come out a General!

Thanks Chainbreaker,
perseverance.
Kris

OK Kris, here we go.

We need to see where the L1, IP solenoid has lost its power. We are going to work backwards. This is where I need to put on my instructors hat. So you and anyone having a problem with starting a MEP-004A, MEP-005A, MEP-006A or MEP-007A, or the precise power variants.

So to get started, I introduce the the S9 Over speed switch. What has an over speed switch to do with starting and stopping?

S9-1 contacts do two things. Contacts A&B, (They are closed contacts) are to let the STARTER relay, K3 do its thing. Engage the starter.
So at 298-310 RPM, the A&B contacts open up, to prevent ring gear clash, and S9-1 contacts B&C close and send 24 VDC to the exciter, to light off the Main gen.

S92 contacts are not relevant to your set. Only precise power sets. So we can ignore them.

S9-3 is function is to close contacts F&J, (at 1200-1250 RPM) to tell the A9 fault indicator that there has been a over speed situation. Bingo, light comes on.
S9-3 contacts G&H, in turn open up, telling the L1 IP solenoid to shut off. That way the over speed SHOULD shut down the engine. I am here to tell you, it is possible for it to NOT shut the engine down under the right circumstances.

What we are going to do Kris, is circumvent the S9. To do that, we need to remove the J37 C-Plug from the S9. Then take a paper clip, and bend it straight. Then bend it in a U shape. Insert it in the female pins A&B. That way we can get the engine to turn over. Then, get a second paper clip, and fix it up the same way. Insert it in pins G&H. Then go around to the S2 and start the set. Should it start up, let it run a few seconds, just to let you know its alive. Then shut it down. Don't forget, you do not have over speed protection at this time. ALSO remember, your volt and hertz meter will NOT work, as we are not going to let the B&C contacts close to light off the Exciter.

If this doesn't get the engine to start, we need to go a step farther.

NOTE: any time a 004-007 will NOT crank the engine, the first thing I did was jump the pins J37- A&B. If the starter spins, the S) is at fault.

OK
Will do but the engine does crank, but will not start in the start mode.
Kris