Replaced Battery Cable Installed Non GI Battery Clamps Now No Power?

the #6 cable you moved might be part of the issue, but it's not the only possibility. If your ground cable isn't making a good connection to the shunt and then to vehicle ground you can check every positive connection on the truck and still not see voltage.

I haven't seen it yet, but do you have a voltage reading from the shunt copper stud to the positive isolator stud on the side of the battery box? The low voltage at the nato slave receptacle is a good indication your connection is bad somewhere in the battery box, and you said you have 24 volts from the positive stud to battery negative post, so next thing to check is voltage from the shunt to the positive post on the forward battery, should also be 24V. If your vehicle ground to batter connection isn't good then absolutely nothing else on the truck will work right either.

Also, if your meter leads are long enough, you can check from the positive stud on the generator back to the negative battery post. If you have good voltage it's almost certainly an issue between the battery negative post and the vehicle ground.

papakb said:

Any updates?

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Waiting on seller to give me the tag #s still present on that sub bundle so I can determine just how much needs spliced on and where they go. I'm about ready to just pull the trigger on it, then worry about splicing it when it gets here. I let Kevin drive it around about an hour after we found the problem, didn't have any trouble then or running it awhile yesterday.