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6.5l engine build questions

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So to all the engine guys out there I am looking to build a 6.5l turbo diesel for a humvee. I have some questions tho. Is it possible to switch from a side turbo to a center turbo? Would I just need the new heads,intake,turbo? Or could I use a stock intake and heads and just build a centermount for it? I saw a video of a 6.5l that didnt have the traditional centermount turbo setup. Any help would appericiated ~Reno


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Barrman

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6.5 turbo quick facts.

1994 GM side mount turbo with mechanical injection pump.
1995 - 1999 GM side mount turbo with several different turbo sizes and an electronic IP.
2000-2002/2003 GM 6.5 turbo in vans had a block made for a center mount turbo with oil supply and oil return casted into the rear valley of the block. Center mount turbo heads had the intake manifold to head bolt at a vertical or 90° to the horizon angle so the multi piece intake and turbo could be serviced. Compared to all other 6.2 or 6.5 engines previous which had 60° intake to head bolts.

2003+ GEP engines were all 6.5 liter. Two versions. Center mount turbo casting or detained 6.2 power equivalent.

I dont know the HMMWV as well as others. Common internet wisdom says a side mount turbo can work if you have the time, money, patience and don’t need it to look like a HMMWV inside and out. Same wisdom says if you want a turbo in one. Collect the production parts to make it so.

Now, can you make a non center mount block work with a center mount turbo? That depends on how hard you want to re invent the wheel. I would suggest collecting the production parts.
 
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Thanks for the info. The engine I have access to is a 1999 6.5l and it has a blown head gasket. I figured if I opened it up and it was fine. Aka just blown head gasket that I could build it with the correct heads and such. I would also put a mechanical injection pump on it.

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Retiredwarhorses

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Thanks for the info. The engine I have access to is a 1999 6.5l and it has a blown head gasket. I figured if I opened it up and it was fine. Aka just blown head gasket that I could build it with the correct heads and such. I would also put a mechanical injection pump on it.

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Waste of time and money when you can buy complete GEP drivetrains for $3k
 
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Honestly Im going to have to agree. The engine I have access to is dirt cheap. But I keep adding up all the stuff it will need to work and its getting close to 3k. And thats not even including the fact I plan on upgrading the tranny at the same time to a 4l80!

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Retiredwarhorses

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Honestly Im going to have to agree. The engine I have access to is dirt cheap. But I keep adding up all the stuff it will need to work and its getting close to 3k. And thats not even including the fact I plan on upgrading the tranny at the same time to a 4l80!

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Lol, you have to agree, I do this 7 days a week and literally talk customers out of this monthly.
That take out drivetrain has your trans, Tcase, down pipe and many more parts you would have to buy.
Even if the blown motor is free, it makes no difference.
 
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Out of curiosity how much hp does the gep make? I dont need a "hot rod" humvee with a duramax making 500hp but id love to get a solid 250-300hp. Which I hear is actually pretty doable in the 6.5l, feel free to correct me if im wrong.

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Retiredwarhorses

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Brentwood, Calif
Out of curiosity how much hp does the gep make? I dont need a "hot rod" humvee with a duramax making 500hp but id love to get a solid 250-300hp. Which I hear is actually pretty doable in the 6.5l, feel free to correct me if im wrong.

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250-300HP out of a 6.5 Diesel? I think you mean foot lbs of torque! LoL
165-175 is NA HP rating, 195-210 for turbo motor, mind you, this is stock...
 

Barrman

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The 6.5 is an indirect injection engine. Horsepower is not what IDI engines do. They run great, awesome low rpm non turbo reliant grunt, good mpg without turbo help and with a turbo have the ability to push a driver back in the seat with a gleeful yell.

I’m not trying to make this about me. However, I want to relate a 313 mile drive I did yesterday in the Cowdog. 6.5 GEP engine, turbo heads, diamond pre cups, 6.2 intake, 4L80E transmission and Banks Sidewinder turbo. 2,000 rpm is right at 70 mph. I can get up to highway speeds without any boost if I stay out of the power. But, any other car on the road is going to be faster than I. Just a little more right foot gives me 1-2 psi of boost and I am flowing with traffic if not leading. However, in the boost means higher exhaust gas temperature and higher coolant temperatures. The IDI head gets very hot very fast with boost pushed into it.

Cruising at 70-75 mph means 0 to maybe a pound of boost on flat road. Meaning the turbo isn’t even needed for normal driving. Along comes a hill, head wind or even an overpass. Then it is either get slowed down or ride the boost to maintain speed. Sustained boost means coolant temp will start creeping up and up and up. Out of the boost and all the temperatures go back to normal just as fast.

Drive behind a direct injection engine with a turbo and it is a completely different experience. They are for the most part boost dependent. Which is fine since their heads don’t get hot and they have lower compression.

My point is that direct injection engines better in just about every way. That is why all the manufacturers have gone that way for at least the last 15 years. IDI engines do not compare to the DI ones. Except for lighter weight and all mechanical controls.

A turbo on an IDI engine is to be thought of as a supplement. Sure, with lower compression pistons, an intercooler, water or alcohol injection and a few other things IDI engines can get to where DI engines were 10 years ago. But, that is it.
 
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My grandfather has a civilan model with the 6.5 turbo and its not bad just I just want a tad more from it. I would only do very basic things like upgraded injectors and a part to the turbo.

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