MEP-004A, No output

I started the gen then set it to 60 hz and used vice grips so the throttle was fixed

Then I adjusted volts to 208

then I took pics of the DMM DC Volts

Kris

Started gen and adjusted to 60 hz and 208 volts (L1 L2)
Then took pics of DMM dc volts

Sorry about the duplicates
Kris

I dont know about anyone else, but I got 4 eyes.

Kris, thank you - looks good 1.924VDC on P/J13 R/S = F1 /F2 and Brian got 3 VDC on his modified MEP 005A with 30KW with 240 VAC Output

So we are all good, close her up!




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KLChurch said:

Started gen and adjusted to 60 hz and 208 volts (L1 L2)
Then took pics of DMM dc volts

Click to expand...

OK,
Miller Time
Will close up A11 and bolt her down
I will take pics of the throttle and how I rigged it.
Also show the non working knob.
Also the IP is leaking still at the high pressure outlets. (just one of four)
I bought some copper seals normally used on other diesels and discovered that the originals were hard rubber, so I don't know were to get them.
Then the start switch has to be flipped many times before the starter will engage and turn over.
This is so far that I know needs attention.

Pictures all over. I KNOW you need a safety cover for TB1. If you don't want to make one, please get another insurance policy, and make me your beneficiary. Show me where the leak is at the IP.

And one word of wisdom to any newbie to genset's and High Voltage:

Walk around your shop butt naked and get one of these next to your genset, this way you won't **** in your pants......

Installed the A11 cover and bolted down.
Tried to start the gen and it did not start.
It cranked over fast but no Bueno.
test indicator lights shown ok
Peter believes it is the start run stop switch is causing this.
We have a game plan to prove it by jumping terminal #5 with 24 volts.
The problem I have at this point is trying to find another switch.
None available.
So even if I have to separate the switch into several I'm game for it.
Kris

I have a bunch of extra parts packed away.

I will look in the morning for one.

Brian

Simple:

Engine cranks, but no start = no fuel

tank full

no fuel leak

S2 switch in run = no engine fuel pump L1
battle short switch ON = engine fuel pump L1 running

conclusion:

speed switch S9-3 ok

S2 toast

elaborates with Kris’s start issues he has, starter not engaging and having to toggle S2 several times to engage starter

S2 has gone to Switch Heaven

KLChurch said:

Installed the A11 cover and bolted down.
Tried to start the gen and it did not start.
It cranked over fast but no Bueno.
test indicator lights shown ok
Peter believes it is the start run stop switch is causing this.
We have a game plan to prove it by jumping terminal #5 with 24 volts.
The problem I have at this point is trying to find another switch.
None available.
So even if I have to separate the switch into several I'm game for it.
Kris

Click to expand...

KLChurch said:

Installed the A11 cover and bolted down.
Tried to start the gen and it did not start.
It cranked over fast but no Bueno.
test indicator lights shown ok
Peter believes it is the start run stop switch is causing this.
We have a game plan to prove it by jumping terminal #5 with 24 volts.
The problem I have at this point is trying to find another switch.
None available.
So even if I have to separate the switch into several I'm game for it.
Kris

Click to expand...

Dont give up so fast. We can find a switch. Jump the pins and see if that's it.

peapvp said:

Simple:

Engine cranks, but no start = no fuel

tank full

no fuel leak

S2 switch in run = no engine fuel pump L1
battle short switch ON = engine fuel pump L1 running

conclusion:

speed switch S9-3 ok

S2 toast

elaborates with Kris’s start issues he has, starter not engaging and having to toggle S2 several times to engage starter

S2 has gone to Switch Heaven

Click to expand...

Sounds plausible. I don't know if you read Kris's first thread. But in the one, we found a cut wire. The ground wire to the L4 fuel cut off solinoid. Give you the same symptoms. Assume nothing. Test everything. Jump the switch. Better yet, take it out and test it.

Guy, I didn’t know about the cut wire, but had shared with Kris that my first idea was the fuel cut off solenoid for a variety of reasons and experiences on other gensets.

But then I had Kris check if the fuel pump was running when in run position - then Kris told me that the fuel pump would come on when he placed the battle short switch in on position.

S2 fuel pump connection is in parallel with S7

hence, S7 does it S2 don’t, so.....

Guyfang said:

Sounds plausible. I don't know if you read Kris's first thread. But in the one, we found a cut wire. The ground wire to the L4 fuel cut off solinoid. Give you the same symptoms. Assume nothing. Test everything. Jump the switch. Better yet, take it out and test it.

Click to expand...

I double checked the DC Wiring Diagram

and as you can see S2 and S7 are in parallel, however S2 doesn't activate L1 until in start position, hence no fuel - goes back to the issue with the starter engaging.

Once Oil Pressure Switch Closes, L1 is self sustaining unless there is a Over voltage, Water Temperature, Low Oil Pressure, Low Fuel Condition and Over Speed - When one of those items are not working right then the engine will start but stop as soon as you go to run mode.

However, I saw the repair of I believe A4 and other boards which had prevented the Genset from Starting and running. But, since we started and ran the generator now that would indicate again S2 as Kris had problems mentioned in the earlier posts with getting the Starter Engaged

Guyfang said:

Sounds plausible. I don't know if you read Kris's first thread. But in the one, we found a cut wire. The ground wire to the L4 fuel cut off solinoid. Give you the same symptoms. Assume nothing. Test everything. Jump the switch. Better yet, take it out and test it.

Click to expand...

Btw. A11 has nothing to do with it. We disconnected P/J 9 and 13 still same problem and A11 doesn't come alive until we got 600 to 900 rpm and the speed switch S9-1 switches and does the field flash

So
Do I install a wire from positive side of battery to #5 of the start run stop switch, then try to start the gen?
More than likely speaking from experience I will need the wire number that goes to #5.
Kris

I am going to let Guy guide you through this remainder of troubleshooting and fixing as he has more experience in this then I do.

KLChurch said:

So
Do I install a wire from positive side of battery to #5 of the start run stop switch, then try to start the gen?
Kris

Click to expand...

I suspect, based on experience, that water (rain) caused Kris's premature passing of S2...