MEP-004A, No output

This is the overall pics of the gen

If you look closely you will see a drip from the IP. (Bottom high pressure outlet)
It only drips but can cause a fire
Kris

This is what I call the throttle knob.
I took it apart and put it back together.
It seems to be working but will not lock into position.
Also to get to 60 hz I have to pull it out considerably and will not be able to close the door without being pushed forward
Kris

I used vice grips to adjust the RPM
Kris

More Pics.
I can take more if yall need them
Kris

This is the throttle cable attached to the engine
Kris

KLChurch said:

This is what I call the throttle knob.
I took it apart and put it back together.
It seems to be working but will not lock into position.
Also to get to 60 hz I have to pull it out considerably and will not be able to close the door without being pushed forward
Kris

Click to expand...

Kris,

My original throttle knob didn't lock either so I purchased one that did.
Like yours, I had to pull mine out far enough to get 60hz and I wasn't able to
close the door without pushing it back in so I adjusted the cable.

I still have enough adjustment room between about 58hz-64hz and can still close the door. (I don't need 50hz)

Brian

flydude92 said:

Kris,

My original throttle knob didn't lock either so I purchased one that did.
Like yours, I had to pull mine out far enough to get 60hz and I wasn't able to
close the door without pushing it back in so I adjusted the cable.

I still have enough adjustment room between about 58hz-64hz and can still close the door. (I don't need 50hz)

Brian

Click to expand...

Thanks Brian
Where would I get a new knob?
Kris

KLChurch said:

View attachment 777452View attachment 777451
If you look closely you will see a drip from the IP. (Bottom high pressure outlet)
It only drips but can cause a fire
Kris

Click to expand...

NSN: 5310-00-891-8931
Part Number: 16225
Supplier: STANADYNE CORPORATION



This is a special washer. Ridges on only one side. Ridges face the injector line. There is no rubber to it. Just metal. If you get them, replace them ALL. Cheap insurance. Cost the army .45 cents the washer.

KLChurch said:

View attachment 777458
This is what I call the throttle knob.
I took it apart and put it back together.
It seems to be working but will not lock into position.
Also to get to 60 hz I have to pull it out considerably and will not be able to close the door without being pushed forward
Kris

Click to expand...

Speed Control
NSN: 3040-01-006-5303
1. Part Number: 72-2279-1
2. Part Number: D45336-41-12N 3. Part Number: D045336-41-12
4. Part Number: 72-2279
5. Part Number: D045336-000-041.0
6. Part Number: 345-029
Supplier: ARENS CONTROLS COMPANY, L.L.C
Supplier: DBA ARENS CONTROLS
Cost the Army 38 bucks

KLChurch said:

View attachment 777471

This is the throttle cable attached to the engine
Kris

Click to expand...

Loosen the screw.
Push the arm towards the rear.
Tighten the screw.
Now you do not have to pull it out so far at the knob.
This speed control often went bad.

KLChurch said:

Thanks Brian
Where would I get a new knob?
Kris

Click to expand...

Two in e-pay

Now, will it start? Or not?

Have you tested the S2?

To prove Peters theory, go to the L1, (If you have forgotten where this is, drink a beer and go to bed!!) Disconnect the two wires. On one wire, (P80N) you should get 24VDC when someone turns S2 to the start position. On the other wire, (P55X) you should measure Ohms from ground to the wire, and get continuity. If you have VDC on P80N, then its something other then S2.

Balls in your court.

Guy
Thanks for the part numbers
Will try to locate.
Kris

Guy
How would you test the start run stop switch?
Looks like you already answered
But you are correct I don't know what L1 is
Sorry
Kris

KLChurch said:

Guy
How would you test the start run stop switch?
Looks like you already answered
But you are correct I don't know what L1 is
Sorry
Kris

Click to expand...

The solenoid on top of the IP.

Guy
thanks for your patience
will test L1
Kris

KLChurch said:

Where would I get a new knob?
Kris

Click to expand...

I purchased mine from Delk's Army-Navy Surplus Store 336-629-0991. (7 years ago)

It wasn't cheap but it works well. Just make sure you get one that locks and won't slip.

There may be cheaper options available now.


Brian (added the picture)

Guy
Got 24 volts on P80N in start position.
But the connector snapped off while trying to disconnect it.
So will have to install a new connector. It seemed that not many wires were left connected when I try to disconnect it.
Also the terminal started leaking diesel so I had tighten the nut. This is disturbing.
When checking the ohm on the other wire, do I check it in the stop position?
Kris

Thanks Guy,

I think that S2 is making contact intermittently, hence sometimes it works and at other times it doesn't. In German this is called "Wackelkontakt" and is caused by internal contact corrosion (Water/Rain), bent contacts from pushing switch to hard into start position or a worn out spring for the momentary action part of S2 or it is just simply worn out after decades - probably the most often used Switch on any Genset:



Wackelkontakt {m}
slack joint electr.
loose contact electr.
loose connection electr.
defective contact electr.
intermittent contact electr.

Anyway, my first suspicion was L1 as I stated earlier, but it could be both, S2 and L1 (Ground Connection or stuck/sticky solenoid)

Maybe a double whammy.......

Guyfang said:

Now, will it start? Or not?

Have you tested the S2?

To prove Peters theory, go to the L1, (If you have forgotten where this is, drink a beer and go to bed!!) Disconnect the two wires. On one wire, (P80N) you should get 24VDC when someone turns S2 to the start position. On the other wire, (P55X) you should measure Ohms from ground to the wire, and get continuity. If you have VDC on P80N, then its something other then S2.

Balls in your court.

Click to expand...