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MEP-004A, No output

KLChurch

KLChurch

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I didn't have to make multiple trys to start the starter this time. Just the first time, if that gives any clues.
Did it three times and the starter engaged each first try.
This was done to verify the 24 volts
Also the sun was out all day and dried out what the humidity made wet.
Kris
 
peapvp

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Kris,

I would be happy for you if your S2 is OK, because that is a difficult Switch to replace - all the other switches for most can be replaced by cots switches.

The problem is the Switch Function of S2: OFF - ON - Momentary

This is what is commercially available:

ck.jpg
 
peapvp

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Great! Kris might be better off with this new S2 - after all the issues he had starting the Genset this weekend for the A11 test and verification - There are probably quite a few loose ends on his Genset which need to be tied together.....


flydude92 said:
I looked for an S2 switch this morning and found one

that is available if needed but I forgot to mention it. :shrugs:

I assume it works but haven't checked it out yet.

Let me know if you need it Kris.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
KLChurch

KLChurch

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peapvp said:
Kris,

I would be happy for you if your S2 is OK, because that is a difficult Switch to replace - all the other switches for most can be replaced by cots switches.

The problem is the Switch Function of S2: OFF - ON - Momentary

This is what is commercially available:

View attachment 777488
Click to expand...
A standard ignition switch has acc, off, on, and start.
Why can't this be retrofitted.
 
peapvp

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Because you need three individual Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) which are electrically separated from each other but activated together and have three positions

and form a tpdt (Triple Pole Double Throw) besides the switch function OFF - ON - MOM. The majority of ignition switches are SPDT and but a few have DPDT if your lucky...

Basically your a few french fries short to a menu....



KLChurch said:
A standard ignition switch has acc, off, on, and start.
Why can't this be retrofitted.
Click to expand...
 
peapvp

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I have to correct myself again, these are actually triple throws as we have four terminals per pole:

1 Com
1 normally closed which is off position
1 normally open switch which is run position
1 normally open momentary switch which makes contact with com and the normally open switch which is the start position

so we got a triple pole triple throw where in position 3 three contacts are making contact

this is also the reason why they become intermittent because of three contacts have to make contact in a momentary position and that multiplied by three times as we got three poles - plenty of things for misalignment in this.

This is stuff back from the Relay Logic Days in the 50's and 60's - that's why they are so difficult to get


KLChurch said:
A standard ignition switch has acc, off, on, and start.
Why can't this be retrofitted.
Click to expand...
 
KLChurch

KLChurch

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peapvp said:
I have to correct myself again, these are actually triple throws as we have four terminals per pole:

1 Com
1 normally closed which is off position
1 normally open switch which is run position
1 normally open momentary switch which makes contact with com and the normally open switch which is the start position

so we got a triple pole triple throw where in position 3 three contacts are making contact

this is also the reason why they become intermittent because of three contacts have to make contact in a momentary position and that multiplied by three times as we got three poles - plenty of things for misalignment in this.

This is stuff back from the Relay Logic Days in the 50's and 60's - that's why they are so difficult to get
Click to expand...
WOW,
So someone out in the field with bullets flying cant fix it?
This is the same with vehicles with keyed doors and keyed ignitions. (Viet nam police action)

With bullets flying and you lost your keys you are SOL
Kris
 
KLChurch

KLChurch

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peapvp said:
I have to correct myself again, these are actually triple throws as we have four terminals per pole:

1 Com
1 normally closed which is off position
1 normally open switch which is run position
1 normally open momentary switch which makes contact with com and the normally open switch which is the start position

so we got a triple pole triple throw where in position 3 three contacts are making contact

this is also the reason why they become intermittent because of three contacts have to make contact in a momentary position and that multiplied by three times as we got three poles - plenty of things for misalignment in this.

This is stuff back from the Relay Logic Days in the 50's and 60's - that's why they are so difficult to get
Click to expand...
So if I got you correct you would have to have three switches tied together like a 240 breaker switch?
But the 240 only has 2 polls instead of three.
Kris
 
Last edited:
peapvp

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Sort off, but with three positions and actually three 240 breaker switches connected together plus an extra contact on each - so, really only but sort off


KLChurch said:
So if I got you correct you would have to have three switches tied together like a 240 breaker switch?
But the 240 only has 2 polls instead of three.
Kris
Click to expand...
 
Guyfang

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KLChurch said:
Guy
Got 24 volts on P80N in start position.
But the connector snapped off while trying to disconnect it.
So will have to install a new connector. It seemed that not many wires were left connected when I try to disconnect it.
Also the terminal started leaking diesel so I had tighten the nut. This is disturbing.
When checking the ohm on the other wire, do I check it in the stop position?
Kris
Click to expand...
This could be one reason you can not get it started. If the connector was weak, sometimes voltage will flow, but the amperage, (and its what does the work in moving the solenoid) will not flow.

The P55X wire goes to a central ground point in the SP relay box. No matter what position the S2 is in, that will not change. So just measure from P55X to ground. Should get continuity. Remember, this was the wire we found cut, in the other thread. If your repair came loose, then this could cause the engine to turn, but L1 to not work, again.
 
Last edited:
Guyfang

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KLChurch said:
I didn't have to make multiple trys to start the starter this time. Just the first time, if that gives any clues.
Did it three times and the starter engaged each first try.
This was done to verify the 24 volts
Also the sun was out all day and dried out what the humidity made wet.
Kris
Click to expand...
See post #492.
 
Guyfang

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Not a good idea. Sometimes you get a continuity reading because you are reading through a circuit, instead of through the Switch contacts. Its just like the L1 you tested. Always disconnect the wires to test. UNLESS, you are testing a whole, or portion of a whole circuit, and you KNOW there is no way to get a reading through another circuit/path.
 
KLChurch

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Ok just made a diagram of where the wires go and took off the nut to the switch because I cant undue the wires without taking out the switch, plus I cant read the terminal numbers.
Hopefully I can read them when I get the switch under a magnifying glass.
Young farts like yall may not have this problem. LOL
Kris
 
KLChurch

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Guy
Just found TB1.
Was there supposed to be a guard on it?
If so should be made of plastic and how far away from the terminals should it be?
Kris
 
KLChurch

KLChurch

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No wonder I could not see the terminal numbers. They are not marked.
Just on the left and right side of the switch.
So you cant definitively know what number is what.
I made a sketch of where the wires go. So I guess I need to trace the terminal numbers from the wire numbers.
Kris
 
KLChurch

KLChurch

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Guy,
You were correct on your suspicions. The wire that I fixed before came loose.

But to finish testing the switch I need the wire numbers to the terminals.

I'll be fixing the IP wire and this time I'm going to solder the cut wire and prolly lengthen it.

Kris
 
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