MEP-004A, No output

Does this help?

Brian

KLChurch said:

No wonder I could not see the terminal numbers. They are not marked.
Just on the left and right side of the switch.
So you cant definitively know what number is what.
I made a sketch of where the wires go. So I guess I need to trace the terminal numbers from the wire numbers.
Kris

Click to expand...

If you look at the switch, it will begin to make sense.

I looked again at your pictures. I just saw a cover on TB1. Maybe I was just suffering a flashback. If TB1 has a plastic cover over it, then its good. You are not the only one who cant see!

The cover to TB1 is very unimportant, until you lose a wrench in the set while its running. THEN, the lack of a cover will be etched into your brain forrrrrrrrrrrrrr ever! The reason its so dangerous is because its before any safety feature, circuit breaker or switch. So, when you get something shorted there, the set WILL NOT STOP, OR STOP PRODUCING POWER. So should you have your meat hooks in there, you just might hear the Fat Lady Sing. In one of my more stellar moments, I cut all three phase wires going to the TB1, with an axe blade. The moment still lives in a corner of my brain. The gen set continued to run, all the while spitting sparks, flame and smoke in my face. The engine at last died, due to the main gen not being able to burn holes fast enough through the axe blade.

flydude92 said:

View attachment 777541

Does this help?

Brian

Click to expand...

Very nice Brian! Thank you!!

I can tell you looked at the switch. The schematics do not show the last two digits of the wire number. The reason being, as the last two digits are the wire size. Most folks get confused the first time you say, "find wire 189B", and the can only see 189B12.

Guyfang said:

The schematics do not show the last two digits of the wire number. The reason being, as the last two digits are the wire size.
Most folks get confused the first time you say, "find wire 189B", and the can only see 189B12.

Click to expand...

I don't remember ever knowing that.

Good to know, Thanks.

Brian

This is good to know in the case something stops working in the future.....

Better double check your wiring in A11, just to be sure.

KLChurch said:

Guy,
You were correct on your suspicions. The wire that I fixed before came loose.

But to finish testing the switch I need the wire numbers to the terminals.

I'll be fixing the IP wire and this time I'm going to solder the cut wire and prolly lengthen it.

Kris

Click to expand...

I have two wires that are not on brians drawing. P40R16 and P40U18
Also there seem to be three P40s16's which I don't have. P40s is a jumper wire.
Kris

Now, just to show you all how much I love you, I went to the TM 9-6115-464-12 TM, (foldout FO#7) and checked the wires Brian listed. And naturally, came up with something different. Then I went to the TM 9-6115-465-12 TM, (foldout FO#7) for the MEP-005A, which in theory, is supposed to be the exactly the same. And naturally came up with something a little different. So then I backed up a bit, and looked at another fold out, (FP#7), in BOTH the 004A and 005A, and came up with this.


View attachment S2-wires.pdf
The schematics for these two gen sets are well known to be wrong. For Peter and Brian, in the other thread, where Kris and I chased problems for a while, we found several things not quite right with the schematics. So I am curious to see what Kris comes up with. And Brian, when you get a few minutes, look again. Often, these wire numbers are very hard to read.

Guyfang said:

Now, just to show you all how much I love you, I went to the TM 9-6115-464-12 TM, (foldout FO#7) and checked the wires Brian listed. And naturally, came up with something different. Then I went to the TM 9-6115-465-12 TM, (foldout FO#7) for the MEP-005A, which in theory, is supposed to be the exactly the same. And naturally came up with something a little different. So then I backed up a bit, and looked at another fold out, (FP#7), in BOTH the 004A and 005A, and came up with this.


Kris


View attachment 777555
The schematics for these two gen sets are well known to be wrong. For Peter and Brian, in the other thread, where Kris and I chased problems for a while, we found several things not quite right with the schematics. So I am curious to see what Kris comes up with. And Brian, when you get a few minutes, look again. Often, these wire numbers are very hard to read.

Click to expand...

Guy,
Your doc has the same wires that I have and seem to be in the correct location.
I'll try to make a more formal drawing.
Kris

Tested the switch and it passed.
Brian thank you for the terminal locations
Kris

KLChurch said:

I have two wires that are not on brians drawing. P40R16 and P40U18
Also there seem to be three P40s16's which I don't have. P40s is a jumper wire.
Kris

Click to expand...

Guyfang said:

Now, just to show you all how much I love you, I went to the TM 9-6115-464-12 TM, (foldout FO#7) and checked the wires Brian listed. And naturally, came up with something different. Then I went to the TM 9-6115-465-12 TM, (foldout FO#7) for the MEP-005A, which in theory, is supposed to be the exactly the same. And naturally came up with something a little different. So then I backed up a bit, and looked at another fold out, (FP#7), in BOTH the 004A and 005A, and came up with this.
View attachment 777555
The schematics for these two gen sets are well known to be wrong. For Peter and Brian, in the other thread, where Kris and I chased problems for a while, we found several things not quite right with the schematics. So I am curious to see what Kris comes up with. And Brian, when you get a few minutes, look again. Often, these wire numbers are very hard to read.

Click to expand...

The wires are definitely difficult to read. I even matched them against the schematics but they are also difficult to read.

Guyfang's drawing is correct. I misread the A for an R and a 5 for a U.

Brian

Brian,
Yes I did the same thing when I recorded the wire numbers.
So I was sweating bricks.
I had to check five times.
The position of the switch is not a good location to find the numbers
Kris

Great, I got my feeler's out for factory new ones. Hopefully they will be in stock shortly, depends on how long it will take the manufacturer to make a batch.
All original OEM NSN

Maybe this time it wasn't S2 and that's OK too. These items are no longer being manufactured and I am going to get a minimum quantity made up on a special production run.

From my experience, sooner or later someone will be looking for a S2 and they will be ready.

I will post a separate thread once they become available in app 4 to 48 weeks (waiting for lead time confirmation)

KLChurch said:

Tested the switch and it passed.
Brian thank you for the terminal locations
Kris

Click to expand...

Kris, is your genset now up and running again? Or do you still have to fix the fix on that cut wire?

KLChurch said:

Tested the switch and it passed.
Brian thank you for the terminal locations
Kris

Click to expand...

No not yet.
Try to put everything back together tomorrow.
Have some patent work to do also.
Kris

So, if you are not sitting down you may want to

I was able to find the S2 Switch in current inventory through the NSN System which means they are CERTIFIED AND TESTED to MIL-STD

5930007828590 ... U U
NEW UNUSED SURPLUS / SWITCH,TOGGLE /
NSN:5930-00-782-8590 / CERT PROVIDED: Y / STOCK AVAILABLE 2PCS


DEMIL: A (which means we can sell it to you without going through EUC DLA FORM 1822 or FORM BIS-711)

Price: US$ 259.88 pcs + plus US$ 10.00 Shipping and Handling

I think when Kris has it all back together, it will run right. Let's give the old guy a chance!!

Wow,
259 dollars for a 15 dollar switch.
I guess I'm in the wrong business.
These kind of markups prolly will keep people from fixing or even buying these gens.
Unless they buy just to part them out.

It was very difficult to refix the ground wire to the IP, because where it was cut. But I finally did it.
Had to incorporate an extension wire to make sure it would not be in tension.
Next is to test the ground wire at the IP. Fingers crossed.

Will be reinstalling the Stop run start switch after the test.
But I believe the one thing that is going though my head is "this to me has not addressed the many times I have to flip the switch to get the starter to engage and crank."
I will also clean the terminals to the battery's to see if that is the problem.

Kris

Since I have very limited understanding of electrical schematics, I was wondering if anyone figured out the function of each wire during stop run and start positions.
I think maybe I can if I knew, figure things out using marine grade switches. Yall already said no but I'm stubborn.

We got the replacement T2 Kit ready! 3 in stock - beats the original T2 for $450.00 on ebay or $ 899 on the Web

See signature

The answer is basically yes, BUT

You have to use 2 Switches instead of 1 Switch.

1. Switch goes from OFF to Run

2. Momentary Switch will be the Start Switch


Switch 1:

Honeywell Toggle Switch; 3 Pole; 2 Position; Screw Terminal; Standard Lever

Switch 2:

Carling Technologies 2GM51-73 Switch; 10 A @ 250 VAC; 15 A @ 125 VAC; 250/125 VAC; DPDT; Spade;

Wiring these suckers mounted next to each other will be a son of a bitch!

Data Sheets:

View attachment 1e7a25cbe12e446ee31b819d62cb80ad.pdfView attachment 7dd9021826c5f1fbda1745a55e879eca.pdf

KLChurch said:

Since I have very limited understanding of electrical schematics, I was wondering if anyone figured out the function of each wire during stop run and start positions.
I think maybe I can if I knew, figure things out using marine grade switches. Yall already said no but I'm stubborn.

Click to expand...