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Thread: Engine knocking LDS-456

  1. #191
    Colonel davidb56's Avatar
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    @ Oerthedgde21... Do you have a pyrometer set up yet for your EGT? The engine will be tight for a while, and you may need some fuel adjustment using your EGT after your break in period. I have to turn mine down a bit tomorrow as I have been pulling some steep logging roads with loads of wood.

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  3. #192
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    I do have one, although I hooked up the probe wires backwards. I'm gonna correct it today before I run it again
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  5. #193
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    Glad to see that you have it back together and she seems to be running as she should. The power issue you can take care of with the pyro and setting the fuel accordingly. Mine is not at all turned up to the edge of sanity and it makes more than enough ooomph!
    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

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  7. #194
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    That was my plan, but that'll come after I finish breaking it in, along with new wheel seals, brake adjustment, and filter conversions
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  9. #195
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    For running during break in, i have it loaded up with scrap, I'm gonna throw some concrete blocks on there too. Now, should I be going slow on the road to keep rpms low, or do I want to rev it up more while it's loaded? I was taking it somewhat easy yesterday, just to make sure nothing was gonna fly out. For the test of the period though, I'd want to be up in the rpms with the load in it right? Since for TM spec's break in would be full load on the dyno for a while, I'd want to replicate that right, run it fast and hard to get the rings sealed?
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  11. #196
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    I use 10 weight non detergent oil with the zddp additive for the initial 30 minute cam and lifter break in period at a steady moderate rpm. I then drain oil and change filter and put in John Deere break in oil and run it for 5000 miles or 100 hours depending on the application. This filter change gets any contaminants out of the system too. During this break in time vary the load put on your engine in the first 1000 miles at times. Never run it at maximum rpm's during this time either.

    After this 5000 mile break in you can put in your oil of choice. You are now set to use as intended and change oil as you wish. I have had good results with this method on several engines.
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    If all else fails follow directions!

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  13. #197
    Colonel davidb56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oerthedge21 View Post
    For running during break in, i have it loaded up with scrap, I'm gonna throw some concrete blocks on there too. Now, should I be going slow on the road to keep rpms low, or do I want to rev it up more while it's loaded? I was taking it somewhat easy yesterday, just to make sure nothing was gonna fly out. For the test of the period though, I'd want to be up in the rpms with the load in it right? Since for TM spec's break in would be full load on the dyno for a while, I'd want to replicate that right, run it fast and hard to get the rings sealed?
    On a stock gas engine, the initial break-in is 30 minutes @ around 2500 rpms, so I'd guess the diesel would be at around 1700 rpms. You can look it up, but you'd get 20 different opinions.

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  15. #198
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    Took it for another ride today. Aired up the tires which were all low. Tightened up a leaking hose from the water pump. No other leaks I found in my pre trip. While it warmed up I opened the bleeder on the heater core, and took a shower I didn't want. Coolant is still reading full. However, it only takes a few minutes if driving and the temp gauge just steadily climbs slowly until it's all the way to the end at 240. It begins to make a noticable ticking at idle when the gauge reads that high that t doesn't make otherwise. Opened the bleeder on the side of the block, I have coolant there. Pulled the pipe plug on the intake next to the temp sender, have coolant there. It doesn't seem to be holding in air anywhere. No coolant leaks when hot, no steaming overflow either. Held a piece of newspaper in front of the stack, no wetness or smell of coolant on it, no fluids mixing and no exhaust bubbles in the coolant at idle when cold, haven't checked when hot. About to go pick up an IR thermometer after I post this. Intake manifold certainly does not feel to be 240 as I can put my hand on it for several seconds before removing. Top of radiator is warm, bottom is ice cold after driving and gauge hitting 240. Pyro hit a high of about 1190, which is hits with absolutely no effort, as in as soon as I start getting into it to accelerate in any gear. Idles at about 400. Good oil pressure, good air. Idle seems to get a little wavery when gauge is reading 240. I shut it down almost immediately, gave it maybe 20 seconds to idle as I touched things and listened. Hopefully the gauge is wrong but the way it's acting I thing it make not be. When I had the heads off I cleaned a lot of gunk and Sandy material out of the cooling passages. Gonna try flushing the system a few times. Oil isn't sparkly not does it smell of fuel so I think we're still good. I gotta bring my buckets of oil and coolant to the dump before I can drain whats in this thing. Any ideas or other things to check/look for would be great.
    Also noticed the exhaust not is different, seems throatier with a very loud combustion note when accelerating, nit really sure how to explain, kinda wanna call it a banging/popping but that's not really accurate. It's rythmic and does not cause any hiccuping or feelable power loss.
    Last edited by Oerthedge21; 10-18-2019 at 16:40.
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  17. #199
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    Forgot to mention, o also see there is a lot of blowby from the slobber tube. Is this normal for an engine that hasn't broken in yet? If not then I may pull the heads and stuff again while I have the coolant drained and see if maybe the rings got spun when I put them in or if they're eating the liners or something stupid. Although I suppose before that I should do a compression test. I still have to make a testee out of my spare injector.
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  19. #200
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    I managed to get a compression test done before it got dark, or half of one anyway. I shot a little bit of atf down each cylinder and got a consistent 420-440 psi from #4,5,and 6. Tomorrow I'll pull #1,2,3 and see what they test at. It took about 10 seconds of cranking per try to get to 440 at which point it would build no more. The readings were a good but lower without putting a little atf in there to seal things first. I'll update on what I get for readings tomorrow
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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