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Thread: Engine knocking LDS-456

  1. #281
    4 Star General Jeepsinker's Avatar
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    Hope you don't have a headgasket that didn't seal... that could also cause your ticking and make it run at an elevated temperature. You'd likely see other symptoms though.
    I sink Jeeps... That is all
    1969 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 w/winch (Daily driver, no joke)
    Now a hot rod deuce: 6BT swap in progress, Waterloo overdrive, 2 micron fuel filtration installed, riding on 11.00r20s
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  2. #282
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    That would be really sucky, but it's like you said the truck has no symptoms of such an issue. I'm gonna get those gauges installed today and see what's going on
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

  3. #283
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    Finally got a nice long ride in today, took the truck through the hilliest part of town. Did great, sounds good too. Ticking is still there but until it gets worse I no longer care. Oil pressure is still 30-60 psi, and no leaks or fluid contamination so far. The exhaust is so much cleaner as well, that picture is with the truck running. It used to Chuck a cloud just idling in the driveway. Seems to be getting great fuel mileage too, gotta do some exact calculating but right now I'd guess around 11-12 mpg.IMG_20191028_171408207_HDR.jpg Got the gauges installed before I left, truck will build to about 19 lbs boost if you're really hammering on it. Temporary temp gauge is reading 160, original gauge is still at 220 so I guess I need a new one of those too. I did run into a pretty concerning issue however. The brakes in this truck have always been soft, but they do work and they don't leak. I know they need an adjustment, but this is a separate issue. It happened twice today and it's happened once before. I was coming to a stop at an intersection and the pedal just stopped as I was pushing it down, fully locked as if it was jammed up solid. Let it out and pushed in again really quick and operation resumed as normal. The one time before this I had just figured something had gotten stuck in the linkage or whatever, and chalked it up as a weird occurance. But now I see this is definitely an issue. I noticed when t jammed that when I let off it quickly to let it come back up and push down again, on the initial let up the airpack could be heard releasing more air than it usually does, even if I'm really stepping in the pedal hard. My guess is the airpack needs a rebuild, but I'm not sure. The linkage should be fine, I've greased it more than once and it all moves smoothly. Any input on that that is?IMG_20191028_171421985.jpgIMG_20191028_171436205.jpg
    Last edited by Oerthedge21; 10-28-2019 at 17:32.
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

  4. #284
    4 Star General Jericho's Avatar
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    Been following your saga, I have a noise in mine, i just get used to it, I have noticed alot of them have ticky injectors. Some noiser than others. What brand ,source did you use for your boost gage and where did you install it in the system

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  6. #285
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    I used a Bosh FST 8213 from Advance Auto, like 17$. Does vacuum and boost, which I'm not a huge fan of but it was cheaper than sourcing one online and faster than waiting for shipping, I'm extremely impatient. I mounted it under the dash panel, at the edge of the lip to the bottom right of the shut-off cable. Only thing is the backlight for the gauge is 12v, but it's a removable bulb so if I source a 24v one it'll be good to go. Works good so far, although I'm gonna paint it green to match the truck. Tractor supply sells a camo green paint that matches the CARC on my truck perfectly. Attached is a picture of a place I touched up where there was a big rust patch, you can barely tell. I also spilled some oil on the black part so it looks really dark and put of place now lol. IMG_20191028_175852162.jpgIMG_20191028_175855897.jpgIMG_20191028_180013937.jpg
    As for my ticking, it's not the injectors or valve train, it's its own noise. I'm not a fan of the "they all make different noises" diagnosis because i had read that about the knock it made before, but upon further investigation it was not just "a noise it makes". That's really the big reason I was so concerned about it, after just blowing all that cash on a rebuild for a noise I ignored, I wanted to try and be at least a little bit wiser, but that's just me. Anyhow I appreciate that you've been following along, I didn't expect this thread to get so many views, or go on for so long, but I'm glad other people can see what I'm doing and hopefully use my experience to help themselves in the future
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  8. #286
    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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    Many Deuce brake problems come from dissimilar brake pistons/springs/cups and bound-up, not sliding on pins shoes.
    Before you go refurbishing the brakes just put dry service air into the right rear glad hand and put a 100psig in there. Go operate the brakes a hundred times, You need helper "C", give her a beer, and look and listen.
    Works good without engine/compressor running.
    Every leak will be easily found to be corrected. Especially look for blown brake lines, they are all over the place under there. Dawn soap and a HF pressure washer is your friend here.
    There is about a hundred and two things to make brakes NOT work good
    Put air in there and operate the brakes to decide which one to take apart and repair.
    deuce brake adjuster repair proof RR tandem IMG_3045.MOV
    I was here, had a good time.

  9. #287
    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    It is also a good time to put a bit of air tool oil into the air pack, either through the little plug on the back if it can be motivated to come out, or loosen the J pipe and put it in there.
    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

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  11. #288
    4 Star General Jericho's Avatar
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    I feel your pain, I spent months and mucho dinero trying to make it squeak, leak and knock free. I did cure a lot . Went down the jackshaft route DID HELP. change U joints, greased greased and greased. Then realized I had put 6000 plus miles on it in the interim with no break downs!. Have new seals and bearings for the wheels and new airpack , master resovior and remote brake fluid package ready to install, was a fast summer, never got to any of it, Now its ready to prep it for winter and 7 months of snow and subzero ! I think you pay attention to your mait and have an ear for things that are acting up You will do fine

  12. #289
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    Same here, have about 250$ worth of seals and axle boots to put on before the snow hits. Gonna try to get it all done this November but we shall see. Although now that I finally picked up an impact that'll take the lugs off I might actually be able to get some of it done
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

  13. #290
    dumpsterlandingfromorbit! gimpyrobb's Avatar
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    I didn't see in any of the troubleshooting if you checked the push rods. Maybe one got bent somehow? Thats the last thing I could think of.
    Don't worry about the size difference

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