Engine knocking LDS-456

Make a "allen key" by using the correct size bolt head that fits, and then double nut the other end and use a wrench on the double nut side to remove the plug. when you drain the tank into containers, let them sit overnight to separate all the water and dirt before pouring it back into the truck tank after you properly clean it.

Make sure all of your injector hold down bolts are tight. A slight compression leak around an injector will make a ticking noise that can be hard to locate.

I hadn't thought of that. Will those bolts actually take the 150 ft-lbs stated in the TM? Seems like a lot for a bolt that small.

Oerthedge21 said:

I hadn't thought of that. Will those bolts actually take the 150 ft-lbs stated in the TM? Seems like a lot for a bolt that small.

Click to expand...

No, no, no, no... That is a misprint... TM torque spec for injector yoke bolts should read "150-175 inch-lbs".

The only other thing I thought and not easy to check would be a bad wrist pin.

I thought ft lbs seemed like way too much. And the wristpins SHOULD all be good since they came brand new with the piston kit

I'm gonna take one more look through there today once I get the tires back for my car. The only thing left I can think of would be a cam issue. I'm gonna look over as much of it as I can from the bottom of the engine. If I can't find anything I guess I'll just have to out it back together as is, which I'd rather not do because I can't stand that noise. I was thinking about teaching up and pulling the oil sprayers down a tad to make for certain one or more of hem isn't tapping the bottom of a piston

Well I checked what u could see of the cam and all of the lobes were present and in good shape. No loose parts that I can find, nothing out of spec. I guess it's just gonna have a tick then. Picked up some new oil filters just now, gonna finish bolting the pan up and toss the break in oil in there. Hopefully all goes well

Perhaps there is something else ...............

redundant deleted

Would be good to pull the plates and seats if one must and inspect the bolts.
There is much to apply the grease to in there, few do...........................
Why do I think that LDS is just ducky?

I absolutely love the wrench on a string idea, I've never though of something like that. Anyhow, wouldn't a loose jackshaft bolt create a clicking/ticking only if the truck is driving? My truck was ticking just idling in the driveway, even if I pushed the clutch in. Today I out the break in oil in here and took it for another ride, the ticking seems to have quieted a little, I'm not sure. Now underneath you just hear more of a knockety diesel. The oil pressure sits at 30 psi idle when fully warmed up and driven, and goes up to about 60 at 2k rpm. I'm hoping my ears don't device me and that maybe that ticking was somehow just a noise it was making because things weren't worn in yet. Still has a concerning amount of blowby though, comes out in pulses like before which I really don't like. Hoping it's still just unseated rings, I've only put maybe a little over an hour on the engine since the rebuild now so hopefully it'll wear in and seal better

In working on my truck, I spent an enormous amount of time researching old threads, on a budgillion different topics, as many of us have. A few pearls of wisdom regarding blow-by that have stuck with me...

"If it's not consuming oil, it's not worn out" - Will Wagner, SS Moderator
"Unless it's using oil, or losing oil, don't worry about it" - Doghead, SS Moderator

You need to get out on the road and load the engine hard to seat the rings. Idling is the worst thing for a freshly ringed engine. Do not idle it longer than necessary to reach operating temperature before a drive.

Truck transfer case and transmission in neutral with engine idling and the jackshaft is always going around.
Special nuts on special bolts and they still get loose.
Clutch in and it still goes around.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CC5ybVZrO5s

Also post #7 in here..........

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?43855-Deuce-Jackshaft

So You should/could get new nuts grade 9 (nine)
https://www.fastenal.com/products/d...-e48c-312e-89cb-965ef987d363?isPunchout=false

Jeepsinker said:

You need to get out on the road and load the engine hard to seat the rings. Idling is the worst thing for a freshly ringed engine. Do not idle it longer than necessary to reach operating temperature before a drive.

Click to expand...

Exactly what he said !!!!

Yes I know about not idling it, I had no choice while I was diagnosing a few leaks and looking into that noise though. I never idled it for any longer than I had to to accomplish whatever I was trying to do

Is the torque peak at 1850 with an LDS?
Put anything you can get that is heavy in the back and drive it at torque peak for a couple of whiles.
Not fast, can't go fast anyhow, but you got lots of gears to pick from.
The back full of dirt plus a few thousand pounds will help.
Drive Her, Then figure what to fix.
You have not even got to the camel back suspension that always needs inspection and maybe work.
Pull the tunnels covers and watch and listen around the yard.

I got it loaded with as much scrap as I could find, including an entire truck bed off my Chevy. I've poked around with the rear suspension before and everything seemed tight and good, mine has the roller bearing pivot as opposed to the bushing. Mine also already had grease fittings on the bottoms of the trunions which I pumped fill of grease until it oozed out the seals.

Got the new temp sender in today, gauge doesn't hit 240 anymore, but it's still reading high. Gauge gets to about 210 and stays there after a little driving. IR gun still reads 165 anywhere on the engine. Went and picked up a mechanical temp gauge and a boost gauge at the parts store. Gonna put those in tomorrow as long as it doesn't rain all day again and see if the truck really is that hot or of the gauge is dead as well