• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

A different security thread - shutters

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
790
788
93
Location
W.WA
So, I'm about to put some stuff in my cab that might be attractive to thieves.

Obligatory: I know nothing can be fully secure, I just want to prevent opportunity thieves, drunks, amateurs and/or slow someone down as I also intend on sleeping in the back while traveling. Anyone seriously trying to break in would make a racket and wake me.

It should be noted that I've since rebuilt my cab above the doors with much thicker steel than the original hard top. So, the walls/roof now are fairly secure.

I was thinking of using steel or aluminum shutters. For the windshield, they could be hinged along the top of the windshield, and held in the up position. I was thinking of mounting them on a sliding track and having both on the passenger side (which is usually empty), then sliding the driver side over when needed. For the doors I was thinking of removable plates that could be stored behind a seat, or maybe I'll create a rack on the ceiling. Secured top and bottom, and/or with the frame they slide into.

The idea being that they'll be relatively quick to put in place so when I go to dinner or something it won't be a big hassle putting them on.

The more I thought about this, I also thought, well, let's make them a little bullet resistant (say 1/4" steel) and maybe cut a wide, slot about eye height so I could actually drive while they were installed, if such a situation ever arose.

Comments? Has anyone done shutters before?
 
Last edited:

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,167
3,071
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
IMG_0204.jpg
(courtesy of ABN173)

Then there is the stuff the Wrangler crowd likes: https://www.carid.com/2018-jeep-wra...s-vicowl-windshield-protection-878862935.html

Makeshift gun trucks used a steel plate that covered the complete door. It was mounted with brackets grabbing over the top over the Deuce door (window rolled down) and a plate with a sight slit extending up where the window would be.

I had a pic but can't find it. This is close: https://www.ewarbirds.org/vehicles/1967reoM35a1.shtml


The security risk you are trying to mitigate dictates your choice of material. 1/4 in steel is ok to resist handgun fire while passing through a riot, maybe .38 cal at an angle. Anything more and you need 1/2 in plate - but is that your #1 concern?

Is it to protect yourself inside the truck and shelter in place while you are being targeted? If they light a fire under your truck, you'd be toast (pun intended). You would need a ton more security to resist this particular threat and, for starters, would want to deny opfor the opportunity to catch you stationary in the first place. Being a sitting duck is on you. Not even a $2Million armoured limo is designed to be a motionless target against determined suitably armed opponents. It is designed to let you live long enough to get TFO of harm's way.

If it is to defend against belligerent drunk idiots that toss rocks or kick at the door, I would actually go the other way...aluminium checkerboard. Tough enough against an idiot trying to vandalize it but easy enough to cut and install, as well as remove or replace.

Also consider the 3M window security film as an addition that makes it impossible to smash through. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZy4DJHM_fs
 
Last edited:

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,026
113
Location
London England
I have those 'personal' security alarms, Which are Seriously LOUD, and we attach them to the doors when parked so that the cord operates them should the door open.
Cheap, and very effective. Especially at shows camping over.
 
Last edited:

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
790
788
93
Location
W.WA
I am putting electronics in the cab and want to avoid smash & grabs.

1/4" steel plate is ~10lbs per sq/foot. That would make the door shutter around 45 lbs which is waaay more weight than I'm looking for. I sent away for a sample of 1.5" UHMWPE which is 8x lighter than steel. All together, the area of the windows is a little under 16 sq/ft. The UHMWPE is just an experiment, I'm not sure about. I'll probably end up going with 1/8" aluminum plate which is 3x lighter than steel.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Anyone can go overboard, sounds like you are with small arms resistant steel.

Kiss
Why not just a frame with chain-link style guard. You could leave it in place 24-7 or have it flip up. I'll try to post an example after I get off work.
 

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
790
788
93
Location
W.WA
How about replacing the side window safety glass with laminated glass? Front is (or should be) already laminated.
I want something that can't be kicked in, or "quickly" smashed. As with all upgrades, there is a sweet spot between weight, cost & convenience. Bullet resistance polycarbonate or acryllic is light but expensive (~$100 sq/ft+). If I can't get the cost down to something in my budget range, I'm just gonna go with something that can't be easily kicked/smashed in and call it good.

Prices on Alibaba are very good, but I'm wondering about shipping which could be stupidly high.

Anyone can go overboard, sounds like you are with small arms resistant steel.

Kiss
Why not just a frame with chain-link style guard. You could leave it in place 24-7 or have it flip up. I'll try to post an example after I get off work.
As I said in the post just before yours, 1/4" (and even 1/4" only stops the smallest of stuff, I would be counting on deflection angle more) steel plate is too heavy and I don't think I'll go with it as the door shutters would be around 45 lbs. If I just throw the idea of bullet resistance out the window, I would go with maybe 1/8" aluminum plate. It would weigh about 8 lbs for the door shutter, and I would store it on the door itself.
IF, and it's a big if, I can find a cheap source in China that will sell me a small amount (I could use some more for another project, but still it'll be a small order) of some bullet resistant composite like polycarbonate, etc. for cheap (again shipping?), I might consider that. I have at least a year before my world trip (if it ever gets off the ground) starts, so I got time.
 
Last edited:

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,341
328
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
Expanded metal. Light, strong, cheap, and easy to get and work with. You can even permanently install it over the windshields and be legal in most states. Not bullet resistant, however Amazon has lightweight bullet resistant fiberglass sheet of various thickness that comes in 4'×8' sheets.. armor can go inside.
 

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
790
788
93
Location
W.WA
Expanded metal. Light, strong, cheap, and easy to get and work with. You can even permanently install it over the windshields and be legal in most states. Not bullet resistant, however Amazon has lightweight bullet resistant fiberglass sheet of various thickness that comes in 4'×8' sheets.. armor can go inside.
I think I'd rather go with something more or less opaque. I suppose, if you can't see it you might want to get in to see what's worth covering up, but then if they see there are easy to rip off items then they might be more tempting to try and break in - still, I think I'd rather go with the mystery.

Never heard of the fiberglass stuff. I'll look into that.

Hmm...free shipping for Prime members...

Ok, a little cheaper than polycarbonate. 1/2" is rated against most handgun fire, 5 lbs per sq/ft, so almost 24 lbs for the door shutter.

Just a note, I searched the internet and found a significantly better (like half) price (also with free shipping).

Ballistic ProtectionNominal ThicknessNominal Weight (lbs per ft2)
Level 11/4″2.3
Level 25/16″3.5
Level 31/2″5.0
Level 41 3/8″14
Level 51 3/8″15
Level 65/16″3.5
Level 71 1/8″10
Level 81 3/8″15

ProductLevel of Protection
Level 1 Bullet Resistant Fiberglass9mm handgun, three shots
Level 2 Bullet Resistant Fiberglass.357 Magnum, three shots
Level 3 Bullet Resistant Fiberglass.44 Magnum, three shots
Level 4 Bullet Resistant Fiberglass.30 Caliber Rifle, single shot
Level 5 Bullet Resistant Fiberglass7.62mm Rifle, single shot
Level 6 Bullet Resistant Fiberglass9mm handgun, five shots
Level 7 Bullet Resistant Fiberglass5.56mm rifle, five shots
Level 8 Bullet Resistant Fiberglass7.62mm rifle, five shots

Ok, I kept looking around the internet. I strongly recommend if you buy this stuff to search. I have found stuff at 1/4 the cost as listed on Amazon.
 
Last edited:

DeadParrot

Active member
213
46
28
Location
oklahoma city, ok
You already have some security due to the height of the cab. Most folks will have to climb up on the vehicle to look inside. Not that they won't but it does ruin the "I was just walking by" excuse if someone spots and confronts them. Something as simple as a piece of cardboard with aluminum foil would be a place to start for the side windows. Coupled with a sun screen for your wind shield and it will look like you are just trying to keep the cab cool. If you make the truck look armored against theft, you could be making it appear as a more desirable target. "Don't know what's in there but with all that, it has to be valuable!"

Since a lot of the smash and grab thieves are younger, put a loud high pitched piezo alarm horn in the cab as a deterrent if they do decide to force the issue. If their ears are in pain, they will likely just leave.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,166
113
Location
NY
Door glass is laminated safety glass (same as windshield), not tempered safety glass.

Have you added exterior keyed locking door handles to your doors? Lots of threads on them already.
 
Last edited:

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
790
788
93
Location
W.WA
Have you added exterior keyed locking door handles to your doors? Lots of threads on them already.
Yep, lots of threads about that. That's something I'm gonna do. But I didn't find any threads about shutters so here I am.

I've narrowed the door lock to either the dead bolt I saw someone attached below the door or a container lock I found that I'll put on the door.
integral-lock-500x500.jpgThis is an example, not necessarily the one I'll be using. Cabinet locks are more common (and cheaper, but only designed for cabinets - I would want something stronger.

Multi lock and brackets.jpgThis container lock looks promising, it doesn't come with the brackets, but it's designed to be welded and that's probably how I would attach it (welded to brackets).

There is also the philosophy that if something looks too hard to break in that maybe I should break in to all these other cars instead.

As for insurance and not giving a rat's ass about what's in the truck: I can afford to spend a little bit to avoid an insurance claim that may occur while I'm in New Delhi. I've already mentioned there is a sweet spot (an arbitrary sweet spot based on my feelings) between cost/weight/effectiveness. My door/windshield glass is acryllic - I'm not counting on that being able to stop anything but the wind.

I am putting inverters, a monitor & a PC in the cab. The cab will also have a hatch which will lead to the camper in the bed WHERE I WILL BE SLEEPING. I don't think a little security is a bad thing. I will also be putting locks on the hood, the battery box, the fuel tanks.

Yes, nothing will work all the time, I just want to slow people down or alert me. I will also have camera security (hooked up to said PC) that will double as my backup/forward/side cameras. I don't live in Fort Apache, I'm not even concerned about this for the US - this is for international travel or Detroit.

I am trying to keep it simple, but there is a vast gulf between tin foil and 1" steel plating. I am looking at something in-between.

And if I get shot dead while outside the truck you can all say you told me so. :cool:
 
Last edited:

US6x4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,165
2,028
113
Location
Wenatchee, WA
It would be pretty slick to incorporate roll down shutters into a cab visor above the windshield kinda like a hybrid between a garage door and the shutters on the GTO in The Punisher movie.

sc0511-107919_4@2x.jpg
 

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
790
788
93
Location
W.WA
*blows the dust off the thread*

So, my project has been slowly progressing.

Earlier in this thread I brought up door locks. Had those installed a couple years ago.

20200515_165941[1].jpg
20200515_170102[1].jpg
20200515_170359[1].jpg

Of course these locks can only be opened from the outside, but they can't be closed without the key. So, no one can come along and lock you inside. You also have to be a little cognizant of your door, there's not a lot of play with this sort of lock, so if you bend/warp your door in some way it might not lock. This came up with me, but repeated slamming of the door got it back in line.

Back to shutters. Not long after I made this thread I came across a deal on 4x8 1/2" ballistic fiberglass sheets. My plan was to cut shutters out of one sheet, use 2 sheets to wrap around the 2 fuel tanks in the bed of the truck and a few sheets will lbe installed in the back framing the area where I sleep.

Recently, I saw a M1078 and got to thinking about those bars along the front of the truck, below the roof rack.

M1078~mv2_.jpg

I could install something similar on the Deuce, including a pair of bars in the middle. I could then cut a channel in the bars and run some sliding doors like the one I installed in the cab (see pic following). I have a roof rack already installed. but I could run the sliders along the bottom of the rack and install another plate above these. Note the 90 degree curve.

The advantage to these is they would be able to protect the glass a bit more and provide a visual deterrent. They could also protect the glass while I'm parked/camping from windblown debris.

20191209_145514.jpg

It wouldn't be too hard to have some sort of lock, even if it's a padlock.

20190523_185259.jpg

It's hard to tell from the pic here, but the rack doesn't come right up to the front of the cab roof. This is because our roofs aren't square, but the rack is. For this to work, I would have to cut pieces out of the front support bars of the rack, maybe even one or both front corner pieces. There would be a plate covering the area where the shutters roll up to. This plate will allow me to use the rest of the roof rack and allow me to restructure the support pieces I cut out.

As for the side windows, I could do the same thing, overlapping the shutter storage or wrap them around the back of the cab - this may interfere with other things that are already planned though.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks