Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 66

Thread: MEP 831A Fix-up Thread

  1. #21
    2 Star General
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    607
    Thanks
    54
    Thanked 759 Times in 348 Posts

    Default

    Didn't know you were missing part of the housing.
    Looks like you'd need to order a complete housing assembly to get the lens that holds the bulb.
    Not cheap from DigiKey..$42 https://www.digikey.com/products/en?...-1030-0337-504
    Also on ebay. Search for 800-1030-0337-504
    MEP-831A Governor Controller Replacements for the SLC100, 2990-01-477-1371, 98-19539. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...90#post2233190
    MEP-802A/MEP-803A Remote Start Kits
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...92#post2233192
    MEP-831A Battery Charger Repair & Repair Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...83#post2231683
    MEP-831A Remote Start / Governor Controller Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...49#post2245549

  2. #22
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    242
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 111 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    Here is the battery setup I made. Waiting for tie-down parts to come in. I duct taped the batteries together to make handling easier.

    69369477_2426813140769548_210678616999067648_n.jpg69506683_358161631734830_2938437459362447360_n.jpg

  3. #23
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    242
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 111 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    Made a video on adjusting the speed controller & governor.


  4. #24
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    242
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 111 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    Alright, got the pull start & cup for it in. Installed & then made it so the pull handle is through the hole. Installed the new fitting that protects the rope. I rotated the pull start down a but so it has a straighter shot to the hole.

    69649355_762492290874680_6314055031284826112_n.jpg70679350_436238310317994_1616930873410584576_n.jpg

    Installed a 30amp twist lock outlet along with 2 110v outlet. Mounted it just below the convenience outlets.

    69419304_901438696892041_1820561354587635712_n.jpg

    Pull started it a few times. With it on casters now, makes it a challenge! I have had a few Yanmar engines like this so I know the pull starts aren't fun. I think the fact that the rope is at an angle & stuff doesn't help. Both times I pull started it, I had issues. First time, it did similar to what it would do when the controller or governor isn't set right will do & the engine went right down to a low idle when it was supposed to shut down. I cleared the low oil pressure. The second time, gauges showed 240v, cleared low oil light, but the contractor wouldn't close. It also again, wouldn't shut down. Is the pull start really only for is there is a dead or absent battery?

    Also, no that I have more outlets, I tried loading it up a bit more. I maxed out the ammeter & it kept up pretty good. I noticed that the target lifted the linkage all the way out of the hole. Never got a overload trip or anything. Lots of smoke though. Maybe I just need to really burn it out at the 3000 watts first then go a bit higher to clean it out good?

    Really thinking about getting kloppk's controller & selling my good one as a take off just to make it a bit more reliable. I'm not to confident will all the reports of bad controllers.

  5. #25
    General
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Green OH
    Posts
    435
    Thanks
    83
    Thanked 127 Times in 86 Posts

    Default

    I just put one of Kurt's controllers in a one on Monday. Runs like a top now. Just sitting seems to make the stock one go haywire. I have a couple more to do now that I've seen firsthand how well they work getting rid of that factory controller.

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to smokem joe For This Useful Post:

    CallMeColt (09-03-2019)

  7. #26
    2 Star General
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    607
    Thanks
    54
    Thanked 759 Times in 348 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CallMeColt View Post
    ...I noticed that the target lifted the linkage all the way out of the hole...
    .
    Hmmm... Something still isn't right with the adjustments. The rod should never be able to lift itself out of the hole.
    The rod ball should always be in contact with the black lever when it's running or stopped. Never a gap between them when running or stopped.

    The ball lifting off the arm when running indicates the governor is trying to increase the engine speed but the black arm has hit it's stop and isn't allowing more fuel and any further increase in RPM.
    There is another mechanical governor adjuster screw that you ought to check. It's located on the lower left of the mechanical governor. It too should be locked into place with a piece of wire and a lead seal. Since the rod is lifting out of the hole I suspect that adjustment screw in set way too far in and not allowing the engine RPM to increase up to the needed full load RPM. I believe that screw sets the maximum throttle point of the governor. The measurement for that screw on my two sets for comparison are:
    0.890" & 0.900" from the top of the bolt to the plate it screws into.

    Bottom Adjuster.png


    When you ran your set at full load and the rod was lifting out your engine RPM was probably way too low for the load applied.
    Did you check the AC voltage across A5 terminals 1 & 2 at full load? At full load the TM indicates you should see a voltage of 193+/-2 VAC or 288 Hz if your DMM can do frequency which corresponds to 3,450 RPM which is what the engine should be running at under full load.

    I suspect the way your adjustments are set now the set is not running up to the needed 3,450 RPM under full load.
    Do not run the set with a full load unless the engine RPM is close to the 3,450 RPM mark.
    MEP-831A Governor Controller Replacements for the SLC100, 2990-01-477-1371, 98-19539. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...90#post2233190
    MEP-802A/MEP-803A Remote Start Kits
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...92#post2233192
    MEP-831A Battery Charger Repair & Repair Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...83#post2231683
    MEP-831A Remote Start / Governor Controller Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...49#post2245549

  8. #27
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    242
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 111 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    When I made the adjustments last week, the reading was very close to what it should have been at a 3,000 watt load.

    I don't think there's even a lower mechanical governor screw in my machine. After work today, I'm going to go look.

    I figured the rod was lifting because it wanted to increase the RPM. The load was way higher than what the machine is rated for so I didn't leave it on long. How long does it take the overload circuit to cut the load?

    I'm going to go through the controller setup again to see if it helps.

    Thanks for the information!

  9. #28
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    242
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 111 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    So, it is there & has the wire going through it, but it isn't to tight. I also don't see the little lead seal. The end of the screw has a small nipple that appears to be spring loaded. I will compare the measurements with what yours is & adjust a little bit to see if it helps.

  10. #29
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    242
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 111 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    I spent a little time messing with it. The wire was actually cut but was put back in place to look like it wasn't at a quick glance.

    I adjusted it out a little to let the engine rev higher. Seemed to help, but at the over rated load, the rod still lifts out of the hole.

    I checked again, and at 3,000 watts, 240v load exactly, I am right at 193 volts / 288 hertz.

    When taking this reading from the controller for the RPM, is this reading a true reading of the RPM or is it a reading of what RPM the controller is trying to create? If that makes sense.

    Still going to go through the whole adjustment procedure again next week sometime as I will be away this weekend. Want to get it dialed in. Holding out for kloppk's combination WiFi & Governor Controller. Once that is ready, I will upgrade. Probably will do my MEP-802A as well.

  11. #30
    2 Star General
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    607
    Thanks
    54
    Thanked 759 Times in 348 Posts

    Default

    The reading at A to B represents the actual RPM.
    MEP-831A Governor Controller Replacements for the SLC100, 2990-01-477-1371, 98-19539. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...90#post2233190
    MEP-802A/MEP-803A Remote Start Kits
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...92#post2233192
    MEP-831A Battery Charger Repair & Repair Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...83#post2231683
    MEP-831A Remote Start / Governor Controller Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...49#post2245549

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to kloppk For This Useful Post:

    Guyfang (09-05-2019)

Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •