Page 4 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 71

Thread: MEP 831A Fix-up Thread

  1. #31
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    244
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 112 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kloppk View Post
    The reading at A to B represents the actual RPM.
    Okay, just wanted to confirm that.

  2. #32
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    244
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 112 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    I just came inside from running through the controller setup again.

    Put mechanical governor lower screw at 0.9in away from the plate it screws into.

    Got my voltage readings right where they should be at all the stages. After going through the adjustments to the controller so many times, it goes rather quickly.

    I noticed now that at full load, the rod is lifting out of the lever by about 1/4 in. I looked as best I could with a hot engine running & it seems that the lever isn't lifting up all the way to the little spring loaded nipple at the end of the lower governor screw.

    Either way, I was getting proper reading between A & B on the controller.

    Any thoughts or input anyone?

    I'm thinking maybe to just let it run a bit under load as it may need some time to clean itself out? Possibly a bad/worn spring on all the governor parts?

    Fuel generally can be an issue with diesel not coming up to proper RPM but the fuel all seems to be fine. Brand new filter. Tank was pretty clean.

    Since it seems to be at the governor, I'm not sure it's a controller issue.

    Will mess with it more & if anything improves, I will report back.

  3. #33
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    244
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 112 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    Does anyone know what the voltage should read across the hour meter?

    How about voltage across the Circuit Interrupter light?

    The TM doesn't say what it should be. It just says looked for back connections & to replace. I want to be sure that the voltage is right before putting new bulbs & hour meter in. Wondering if that is why they fried.

  4. #34
    Sergeant
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    53
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 20 Times in 16 Posts

    Default

    I think the hour meter is the same as in the 501/531 2kw units. If so, look for something like 10 to 40 volts DC.EDIT: From the TM, work package 0039 HOURS METER: INSPECTION, TESTING, REMOVAL, INSTALLATION"TESTING1. Release instrument panel by turning fastener. Open instrument panel slowly.2. Set multimeter for DC volts and connect across terminals of HOURS meter.WARNINGHigh voltage is produced when this generator set is in operation. Use care when workingaround an open control panel with the generator set operating. Improper operation and/orfailure to follow this warning could result in personal injury or death by electrocution.3. Start generator set and operate at rated voltage.4. If 35-45 VDC is present, wait approximately six (6) minutes. HOURS meter should move 1/10 of an hour.5. If HOURS meter does not operate properly, meter is defective and must be replaced."
    Last edited by DieselGenAC; 09-09-2019 at 14:29.

  5. #35
    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Burgkunstadt, Germany
    Posts
    6,273
    Thanks
    12,123
    Thanked 5,604 Times in 2,695 Posts

    Default

    overall length 0 5/8 inches maximum
    filament designation c-2f
    light output rating 0 17/50 spherical candlepower nominal single rating
    average life rating in hours 1000
    filament heavy duty service rating not rated
    emitted light characteristic colorless
    light center length 0 3/8 inches nominal
    voltage rating 28 volts nominal
    wattage rating 1 3/25 watts
    base style midget flanged
    bulb style t (tubular)
    bulb designator t-1 3/4
    bulb light transmission characteristic transparent
    current rating for which designed 0 1/25 amperes nominal
    rated average life hours
    burning position any acceptable

    6240-00-080-2012

  6. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Guyfang For This Useful Post:

    69birdman (09-09-2019), CallMeColt (09-09-2019)

  7. #36
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    244
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 112 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DieselGenAC View Post
    I think the hour meter is the same as in the 501/531 2kw units. If so, look for something like 10 to 40 volts DC.EDIT: From the TM, work package 0039 HOURS METER: INSPECTION, TESTING, REMOVAL, INSTALLATION"TESTING1. Release instrument panel by turning fastener. Open instrument panel slowly.2. Set multimeter for DC volts and connect across terminals of HOURS meter.WARNINGHigh voltage is produced when this generator set is in operation. Use care when workingaround an open control panel with the generator set operating. Improper operation and/orfailure to follow this warning could result in personal injury or death by electrocution.3. Start generator set and operate at rated voltage.4. If 35-45 VDC is present, wait approximately six (6) minutes. HOURS meter should move 1/10 of an hour.5. If HOURS meter does not operate properly, meter is defective and must be replaced."
    This is from the TM for the 531A/501A units? The TM for the MEP-831A is 0033. Has basically no information. Says basically that if it's broken, replace it.

  8. #37
    2 Star General
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    610
    Thanks
    54
    Thanked 762 Times in 350 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CallMeColt View Post
    Does anyone know what the voltage should read across the hour meter?
    With the set running you should see ~ 28 volts DC across the Hour Meter terminals.


    Quote Originally Posted by CallMeColt View Post
    How about voltage across the Circuit Interrupter light?
    Terminal 1 should have ~24-28 volts DC on it when S1 is in the RUN position.
    Terminal 2 should have 0 volts DC on it with the contactor closed.
    Terminal 2 should have ~28 volts DC on it with S1 in RUN and the contactor open.
    Terminal 3 should have 0 volts DC on it all the time.
    MEP-831A Governor Controller Replacements for the SLC100, 2990-01-477-1371, 98-19539. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...90#post2233190
    MEP-802A/MEP-803A Remote Start Kits
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...92#post2233192
    MEP-831A Battery Charger Repair & Repair Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...83#post2231683
    MEP-831A Remote Start / Governor Controller Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...49#post2245549

  9. #38
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    244
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 112 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kloppk View Post
    With the set running you should see ~ 28 volts DC across the Hour Meter terminals.



    Terminal 1 should have ~24-28 volts DC on it when S1 is in the RUN position.
    Terminal 2 should have 0 volts DC on it with the contactor closed.
    Terminal 2 should have ~28 volts DC on it with S1 in RUN and the contactor open.
    Terminal 3 should have 0 volts DC on it all the time.
    Thank you. I confirmed voltage was okay & installed new hour meter. Working!

    What terminal is negative on the Circuit Interrupter light?

    I'm asking all this because every TM file I can find, the DC circuit wire diagrams are very blurry. I tried to download a few with the same results. I took one of the indicator lights from my MEP-802A & it lit up for a quick second then died. Now it won't work & I'm trying to find a replacement for that as well. Found a few options but can't really confirm these bulbs are compatible to see if that is my problem or some sort of voltage issue.

    There are so many options out there for these bulbs! I did find a good source with a large lot so maybe I'll just order a bunch & have extra.

    I ordered two different complete assemblies & they arrived without bulbs. Go figure.

    Thank you all again for the help.

  10. #39
    2 Star General
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    610
    Thanks
    54
    Thanked 762 Times in 350 Posts

    Default

    The 802 one got "smoked" because you applied 24 volts directly across it's terminals. The 802 one needs a current limiting resistor with it. Without it you killed the 802 indicator LED.

    PM me your email address and I'll send you a version of the TM that has very clear schematics in it.

    You can check the wire numbers on the wires to the indicator to determine which terminal is which.
    The wire numbers are in the pic below.
    DS6.JPG

    Replacement LED for the 802 interrupter.
    https://www.oshkoshequipment.com/pro...el-Light-Green

    I could find suitable replacements from other places if needed.
    Last edited by kloppk; 09-09-2019 at 20:06.
    MEP-831A Governor Controller Replacements for the SLC100, 2990-01-477-1371, 98-19539. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...90#post2233190
    MEP-802A/MEP-803A Remote Start Kits
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...92#post2233192
    MEP-831A Battery Charger Repair & Repair Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...83#post2231683
    MEP-831A Remote Start / Governor Controller Kits https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...49#post2245549

  11. #40
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Wilson County, Texas
    Posts
    244
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 112 Times in 73 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kloppk View Post
    The 802 one got "smoked" because you applied 24 volts directly across it's terminals. The 802 one needs a current limiting resistor with it. Without it you killed the 802 indicator LED.

    PM me your email address and I'll send you a version of the TM that has very clear schematics in it.

    You can check the wire numbers on the wires to the indicator to determine which terminal is which.
    The wire numbers are in the pic below.
    DS6.JPG

    Replacement LED for the 802 interrupter.
    https://www.oshkoshequipment.com/pro...el-Light-Green

    I could find suitable replacements from other places if needed.
    So, they are different. You'd think the military would make them the same.

    Thank you for the picture & link. I did already find that website source yesterday.

    Will send you a PM now. Could use the file with clearer pictures for sure.

Page 4 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •