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Crank Shaft Removal

JKELLS

New member
26
0
1
Location
Chillicothe Ohio
I have successfully removed a crank shaft out of a 71' Multi-Fuel. It isn't too bad if you are a toll hoarder such as myself. Remove the transmission and all drive plates (obviously). Take cab side engine mount bolts (2) off. Use the engine hoist (I have a 2 ton) and slightly lift the cab side of the block. Take a secondary lift, I mounted a hand crank winch on my engine hoist. Using a strap put tension on the crank. Loosen the bell housing from block studs. Lift cab side of block high enough to remove both of the engine mounts (4) bushings. Then lower the block til the bell housing is roughly less than an inch from the frame mounts. Jimmy out the bell housing as far as you can. Use Secandary to lower the crank shaft slowly.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,106
5,712
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
What about putting it back? How on earth do you expect to get precise torque wrench readings while hugging the front axle? Reassembly is a precision task that needs to be performed in a clean well lit shop.
 

exhogflyer

Active member
156
129
43
Location
Albany NY
One can ALWAYS find a short-cut method to disassemble anything. It's a little more difficult to reassemble usually. I've watched guys remove cylinder heads with engine cranes so they can "sneak" a head gasket out without unhooking anything. But unless you have pancake fingers how are you cleaning surfaces before reassembly.
Not impressed but don't take it personal.
 

JKELLS

New member
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1
Location
Chillicothe Ohio
I guess I am just really, very good at what I do. Every one of my rebuilds still run. Not trying to impress anyone. Never know when and where you might be in a sticky situation.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,387
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
What about putting it back? How on earth do you expect to get precise torque wrench readings while hugging the front axle? Reassembly is a precision task that needs to be performed in a clean well lit shop.
Totally agree. Even in a flat rate shop this would not be allowed. Now if your just replacing crank bearings that can be done "in-frame" . Though you still need to check the shaft.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
1,020
1,237
113
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
I guess I am just really, very good at what I do. Every one of my rebuilds still run. Not trying to impress anyone. Never know when and where you might be in a sticky situation.
I can see it done under a emergency situation. just remember to plastigage from the block side.
 
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